Installing Brake Pads

Joined
May 26, 2013
Messages
139
Location
Clarence NY
I become aggravated every time I install pads. Seems like most installs the ears of the bad won't go into
harware and need to be filed down to fit. That just seems weird to me, Did a 2010 Impala front brake pads
and had to grind on the ears. Does everyone have this issue?
Thanks
 
No

Are you using new hardware (clips) ? Are you cleaning / sanding / lightly filing the grooves in the bracket but only to remove rust ? Are you buying really cheap, no-name pads ?
 
I've had a few that the ears are hard to get in place. But never have I had to grind down anything. It has always been a matter of technique, and once I get that figured out, the pads go in just fine.
 
Yep. Cleanliness is your friend. If the pads do not move freely in the brackets, there is likely some build up. A smaller wire brush and BrakeKleen for the win!
Good luck!
 
Yep. Cleanliness is your friend. If the pads do not move freely in the brackets, there is likely some build up. A smaller wire brush and BrakeKleen for the win!
Good luck!
That works in non-rust areas. Up here in the northeast where OP is its abrasives. I use a 24 grit belt on a narrow belt sander for a lot of caliper brackets, others are files, roloc discs and needle scalers. Wire brushes and wire wheels just polish the rust
 
I become aggravated every time I install pads. Seems like most installs the ears of the bad won't go into
harware and need to be filed down to fit. That just seems weird to me, Did a 2010 Impala front brake pads
and had to grind on the ears. Does everyone have this issue?
Thanks
I had to file down the ears on rear pads for my 2012 Ford Fusion. Purchased from Auto Zone.
 
That works in non-rust areas. Up here in the northeast where OP is its abrasives. I use a 24 grit belt on a narrow belt sander for a lot of caliper brackets, others are files, roloc discs and needle scalers. Wire brushes and wire wheels just polish the rust
True. I even have a 3/8" very sharp cold chisel I use with a small ball peen hammer to chip off the rust inside the pad carriers.
 
Yes, I often have to file to fit. Even after cleaning up the caliper bracket, it seems pads are just too tight to slide easily. I take off as little as possible, when done I will put some Honda M77 on it to help slide, call it done (I try to take apart every spring and check, make sure all is still sliding properly).
 
I become aggravated every time I install pads. Seems like most installs the ears of the bad won't go into
harware and need to be filed down to fit. That just seems weird to me, Did a 2010 Impala front brake pads
and had to grind on the ears. Does everyone have this issue?
Thanks

Just did a full brake job on my 2008 Sedona last week. I had to grind down all of the front pad ears, and half of the ears on the rear. They were good pads too, not cheapo ones. The carrier brackets got wire brushed down and were smooth, and the new hardware fit into place nicely, so I don’t think it was a rust issue. The pad ears just WOULD NOT go in. I think sometimes they are sloppy with the paint. Other times the casting might just be sloppy and too big.
 
Yes - with most aftermarket pads, even after removing hardware and removing rust under the hardware. Personally just consider it part of the job and I most always use top grade big name pads. Sometimes just have to grind off stamping burs but often more
 
Yes, I do it a lot of the time. And my brackets are fine, they still have a "sharp" 90-degree corner-- they aren't swollen from rust.
 
Suspect it's all about design tolerancing. Aftermarket supplier likely just copies an oem sample they buy. Their designer has no idea if if what they copy is nominal or at min or max of oem spec. They also would not have oem tolerancing of the mating caliper, so they have a design decision and likely go for same to slightly tight. That way it likely fits great or a bit tight and you can grind them down a bit if you choose. If they go the other way it fits or rattles or bangs when you brake . Result there could be lots of returns and your manager not happy with your design. Which way would you go if you were the designer of the aftermarket part?
 
Suspect it's all about design tolerancing. Aftermarket supplier likely just copies an oem sample they buy. Their designer has no idea if if what they copy is nominal or at min or max of oem spec. They also would not have oem tolerancing of the mating caliper...
They'll buy multiple samples
 
I had to grind them down the last 5x.. until....

Last brake job was fronts on the 2020 elantra
the raybestos slotted right in and fell out I was thinking "HOLY GRAIL MOMENT".. no grinding or filing.. easiest brake job ever.

Subaru esp.. seems to have this problem.. I have used OEM akebono, raybestos, bosch, powerstop.. all needed ground.
That is with new hardware.. and using a brake file and wire wheel on the bracket.
 
That works in non-rust areas. Up here in the northeast where OP is its abrasives. I use a 24 grit belt on a narrow belt sander for a lot of caliper brackets, others are files, roloc discs and needle scalers. Wire brushes and wire wheels just polish the rust
Yeah, the most I ever do is lightly use a flat file on the caliper bracket to clean it up. Easy peasey. I shudder at the pics and videos I see. Seems like you migh have to replace parts instead of cleaning up.
If the pad does not move freely, then there's more to do. And that never happens. Once @The Critic got me a killer price on factory pads and rotors for a newer F-150 4wd. OMG the fitment was amazing. Almost felt like I knew what I was doing...
 
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