Install Wolverine Pad?

[Cyprs]

Got my Wolverine Heat Pads today, the Wolverine presale literature on install of these pad's stated Clean Surface, peel off and stick on. Now the official instructions say, Remove ALL paint, etc. They even state to remove paint beyond the pad perimeter. It shows grinding off paint to bare metal on instructions with these Wolverine pads.

I refuse to grind my oil/tranny pans, those who have installed these Wolverine pads, did you grind the paint off your pans?

thanks

Cyprs

 

[TallPaul]

I did not grind off the paint and mine has been through two or three winters with no problems. I do believe I roughed up the surface a bit. I talked to the guy at Wolverine and IIRC he basically told me I could do it that way. Also, I had to put mine on the side of the pan because there was a part number stamped into the bottom and you can't have an air gap. Wolverine told me I could fill the part number with JB Weld or something, but I didn't want to hassle with it. Oh, and just before installing it I cleaned the area good with non-residue, quick drying electric contact cleaner (CRC Brand).

 

[cak446]

My pad has been on since 97, and all I did was clean the surface really well. The pad came with a tube of silicon, and I placed a bead all around the edge of the pad as per the instructions.


Carl

 

[Cyprs]

Thanks guys, I can live with a light sanding on the paint to rough up a bit Tall Paul, that is good advice for adheasion as long as I can keep a coat of protection, I will will use 220 sand paper. My kits came with silicone too and advise your seal around perimeter Carl. Glad to hear of success, I could not live with exposed metal around perimeter as instruction specifically call for, I did not want to send Pads back for this reason. Thanks.

Tall Paul, I am fortunate to have access to place my pads on bottom, but some fellas who got in on my bulk order have to place Wolverines on side of pans as you did, is this still effective heating of engine and oil on side of pan?


Thanks a million,
Cyprs

 

[TallPaul]

I think bottom would be more efficient, given that heat rises and the cold oil will tend to be on the bottom, but I guess once heated it makes no difference.

I spent a lot of time figuring where the oil level was in the pan to be sure it would be at least a quarter inch above the pad, thinking it would be bad to have heat with no oil backing it. Fortunately I had an old pan to test with. I changed out the pan because it was badly rusted, that before ever hearing about the heating pads, which would not have worked well on a rusty pan.

I tested mine with a thermometer held against the pan on a 0 F day. I put a heavy glove on the back of the thermometer and it was reading around 70 or 80 F, and you know the oil had to be a good bit hotter to give that reading on the outside of the pan.

I started up the engine and quickly rolled under the truck and felt the pan. The part where the oil is flowing down from the engine was cold, as the hot oil was getting cooled from the block, but still it is overall a lot warmer than without the pad.

I definitely like the pad, but only have it on one vehicle. The others, a motorhome that doesn't get many cold starts and a van that is garaged, don't really justify the expense and effort.

 

[Cyprs]

Thanks Tall Paul,

Just talked to Wolverine guy on putting pads over paint surface, he told me many guys probably do put pads over paint as shown in here, he has never had one returned not working due to paint. He did say that if the paint is new and sound then might okay, if it is loose or flaking then a paint particle could cause an air pocket ruining the pad and voiding warrantee, warrantee is void no matter what shape the paint is if going over paint, they want metal surface.

Instructions suggest to remove all paint little larger than area to be covered by pad, install, silicon, the salesman then suggested touch up paint to seal it, not bad advice.

One new X-trail with new paint I will scuff paint a bit and put on pad, on 92 diesel with old pan I will sand it bare, install, silicone and touch up with paint.

Thanks again,
Cyprs

 

[pepper32]

The pads I use on the tranmission and oil pans comes without adhesive. Up he we use Permatex Ultra Copper silicone gasket maker. Product no. 101 BR, very thin coat on the pad 1/16 inch should do. It cures in 24 hours but I speed up the process by plugging in for about 30 seconds.

 

[Cyprs]

Pepper 32, many in here post your technique of silicone even over factory peel and stick heat pads. I know this will void Wolverine warrantee, I do a lot of work in construction with silicone and different applications, it seals and the adheasive qualities are strong.

Are your silicone heat pads forgiving on air pockets, loose paint, bumps, ridges etc.? (Peel and sticks dont seem to be)

Do you grind down to bare metal or apply on paint on oil/tranny pans using silicone?

Cyprs

 

[pepper32]

Cyprs, all I do is clean the surface of the pan with simple green. After the area dries I apply the silicone to the pad and hold it until it stays. I have pads that have been holding on for 13 years.

 

[spf182]

Is there an advantage to the oil pan heaters that require the installment of an adhesive pad to your pan vs. the kind that are just a big magnet you stick to the pan when in use?

 

[TallPaul]

The big magnet kind (as far as I know) has to be physically removed from the pan every time you drive. Big hassle crawling/reaching under, especially when cold, snowing, sleeting, etc.