Install of Valvomax

[Donald]

Got the Valvomax today and planning on installing it soon on my PSD. Was thinking of attempting to (when cold) unscrew the current drain plug and quickly screw in the Valvomax without draining the oil first. The main reason for the Valvomax is no matter how I plan I end up making a huge mess. 14 QTs of oil. Then depending on how much oil I lost, warming up the engine and draining it. The warmed up oil comes out through the normal drain plug like a race horse taking a piss.

I'd be OK with a little oil mess doing the swap. But not a huge mess.

 

[JMJNet]

Can you wait till your next Oil change? I don't think the drain valve will make or break the truck?
IMO, just my common sense.

 

[Rand]

hook up a shop vac to the oil fill? it should keep the oil from draining much.

 

[Donald]

hook up a shop vac to the oil fill? it should keep the oil from draining much.

A possibility

 

[cptbarkey]

There will always be a puddle at the bottom of the sump and never a complete drain. I considered it, bought one, installed it, noticed the flaw, tossed it.

 

[Donald]

Can you wait till your next Oil change? I don't think the drain valve will make or break the truck?
IMO, just my common sense.

If I drain the oil to install the Valvomax I assume I will make a mess. Trying to install the Valvomax ahead of the next oil change.

 

[Nukeman7]

A possibility

I've tried it and it works as advertised. The vacuum cleaner hose does not have to be perfectly tight in the oil fill hole...I just used an old rag and duct tape to get a semi-snug fit. Not a single drop of oil leaked out nor got sucked into the shop vac.

 

[Sedin26]

If I drain the oil to install the Valvomax I assume I will make a mess. Trying to install the Valvomax ahead of the next oil change.

I don’t see how trying to replace it without changing the oil would be cleaner. That seems guaranteed to make a mess.

 

[Donald]

I don’t see how trying to replace it without changing the oil would be cleaner. That seems guaranteed to make a mess.

So what do others with a 6.7 PSD and 12 to 14 QTs of oil do with an oil change to not make a total mess?

Maybe the secret if to just get it warm and not hot and hold the oil drain pan close to drain opening! And lower the drain pan and adjust to how the oil is flowing.

 

[Kira]

^^You're so overthinking this.
Catch the oil competently as you normally would.
Obtaining catch vessels of the proper height AND CAPACITY or ones which don't splash is part of doing the job right.
If any vehicle is designed to drain a fluid directly onto other parts and thus make a mess, make the effort to shield and channel the draining oil properly and limit the times you do it.

Please don't do oil changes "near the beach in Delaware".

 

[RooflessVW]

I have had luck plugging the drain hole with my thumb while changing a leaky crush washer.

 

[factorytuned2012]

let us know how you like the Valvomax once you get it installed a buddy of mine got me one for the wife's new Rogue I have yet to install am planning on it with the 1st oil change.

 

[Astro14]

There will always be a puddle at the bottom of the sump and never a complete drain. I considered it, bought one, installed it, noticed the flaw, tossed it.

There is a whole lot less puddling than you may think.

Look, you never completely drain the engine when you change the oil anyways. There’s oil trapped in the cylinder heads, in various pockets throughout the engine, and even in the bottom of the pan.

No drain plug actually goes to the bottom of the pan.

When I changed the Tundra from a Fumoto to a Stahlbus, I watched how much “extra” oil that was “trapped” by the Fumoto drained out. It was next to nothing. About an ounce. Tops.

So, I wouldn’t sweat the “puddle”. It is a lot less than you think.

 

[4WD]

There is a whole lot less puddling than you may think.

Look, you never completely drain the engine when you change the oil anyways. There’s oil trapped in the cylinder heads, in various pockets throughout the engine, and even in the bottom of the pan.

No drain plug actually goes to the bottom of the pan.

When I changed the Tundra from a Fumoto to a Stahlbus, I watched how much “extra” oil that was “trapped” by the Fumoto drained out. It was next to nothing. About an ounce. Tops.

So, I wouldn’t sweat the “puddle”. It is a lot less than you think.

Yep, if you have an old quart you don't need - just pour half of it in the motor once drained. Comes out in seconds and does not even get discolored.

 

[Dadillac]

The vacuum cleaner placed in the oil fill hole works. I used this method when I installed a EZ oil drain valve in a former car. It works. Not a drop dropped. I will be using this same method on my current car in the very near future.

Don

 

[JeffKeryk]

I was worried about incomplete drains using the MityVac. No more... I would have no problem using the Valvomax style drain plugs.

 

[Donald]

There is a whole lot less puddling than you may think.

Look, you never completely drain the engine when you change the oil anyways. There’s oil trapped in the cylinder heads, in various pockets throughout the engine, and even in the bottom of the pan.

No drain plug actually goes to the bottom of the pan.

When I changed the Tundra from a Fumoto to a Stahlbus, I watched how much “extra” oil that was “trapped” by the Fumoto drained out. It was next to nothing. About an ounce. Tops.

So, I wouldn’t sweat the “puddle”. It is a lot less than you think.

My sump is 14 QT and there is normally a QT left on the bypass filter.

I am not a fan of unscrewing the bypass filter draining it, filling it and screwing it back on. I am worried about the seal not being as perfect as it was the first time.

 

[4wheeldog]

There will always be a puddle at the bottom of the sump and never a complete drain. I considered it, bought one, installed it, noticed the flaw, tossed it.

It depends on the installation. My Sprinter, I have drained it through the Valvomax then removed the drain valve and didn’t get any more oil out. My Subaru was the same after I notched the end of the threads.

 

[wsar10]

Maybe consider a gas engine! You're really making this difficult, and it would be less oil to deal with and less filters to change....

I too am not understanding the theory behind "it will leave oil in the sump". That would imply the mechanism is inserted into the pan and when fully seated it extends beyond the internal surface OF the oil pan, hence causing a dam of sort as the oil would not be able to elevate itself up and over the protruding wall of the mechanism (the dam) to drain out of the mechanism (the valve).

I will say this about the version available for the LEXUS ES350.... I installed one during my last OCI after having it for a while considering the issue it would bring. My only concern is the check valve failing, which seems rare and it also has a fail safe cap and gasket. Mine does NOT extend up into the oil pan, hence creating that dam or plug. The thickness of the threaded bung on my ES350 oil pan is the exact same as the length of the threads on the valve itself. The check valve body in the middle of the valve extends a few MM into the pan, but that is irrelevant as the sides are open.

I can definitely see a mighty-vac leaving oil behind under most circumstances. The engine would have to be an absolute straight shot from the fill tube or dip-stick tube to the deepest part of the pan, or else its impossible to not leave oil behind, more than normal that is.

 

[Chris142]

If you get the new plug ready. Take out the old one and quickly install the new one you shouldn't lose more than 1qt. Especially if you do it when the oil is cold and thick.