increased oil capacity mean you can increase OCI?

[TallPaul]

Originally Posted By: BrianWC
Hmmm, don't know what the capacity is, do you?
Somehow I think it was close to a quart for the FL299, whereas the FL1A is maybe 26 oz.

 

[Saab9-3]

Quilty as charged Brian.

Edit: the FL299 is the same as the Napa 1773/ Ea026. The issue with the napa 1773 is the nominal micron rating is 30 :S. Look at my post above and click on the link. Shows a pic of the 1773 (fl299) and the FL-1a (1515) for comparison.

 

[BrianWC]

Oh, that's what I was thinking after I dug a little deeper. But did you see there's a Ford Racing version of the 299? I wonder if it's any better???

Refresh me, again, did you have any trouble in fitting this to your car? We have the same engine-I can't see why I can't make my FL-1A work.


Sorry for the thread jack....

 

[TallPaul]

Originally Posted By: Saab9-3
Quilty as charged Brian.

Edit: the FL299 is the same as the Napa 1773/ Ea026. The issue with the napa 1773 is the nominal micron rating is 30 :S. Look at my post above and click on the link. Shows a pic of the 1773 (fl299) and the FL-1a (1515) for comparison.


I knew that and it has never bothered me. I doubt it will kill my engine, but then I have the old pushrod engine. Is there something overly sensitive about the new fangled OHC engines, maybe the camshaft drive chain?

(wow, I shudder to think of a many-foot-long chain snaking its way around the front of the engine waiting for a chance to blow and ruin the engine).

Other brands may make different micron ratings for that filter.

The FL299 in Purolator (last I bought one) was very nice with the threaded (front) end bypass valve, whereas the Puro FL1A does not. Baldwin is the reverse and does not have the front end bypass in the FL299, but does in the FL1A. Wix has it in both.

 

[Saab9-3]

Sorry for the thread Jack.

Brian: The 1515, or FL-1A does fit if you have the GS DP. If you have the stock exhaust downpipe,,, i dont think it fits. I had to grind the smallest piece off the engine to get the 1515 and 1773 to fit perfectly.

With my 3" DP the 1773 fits perfectly, I could prob have a filter that is 1" longer than the 1773 (Ea026). Anyone know if a filter that is the same width as the 1773 (fl 299) but longer ?

 

[Gary Allan]

I believe that the 51773 is the longest 3/4-16 thread filter that WIX makes. There is a bigger one, but it's shorter and has a bigger girth. I forget the number ..but it trumps the 51773 by a decent margin.

 

[Saab9-3]

see if you can find the number

 

[7055]

Whoa this thread exploded with replys

Originally Posted By: BrianWC
Originally Posted By: 7055
On my 2.4 liter I increased the oil capacity another 2 quarts to 7 quarts and gave it a monstrous oil filter. Do you think I could logically increase the oil change intervals by another 40% or so?


I'm just curious how you did this? Which 2.4l?


Neon SRT-4 a853, I put in the DCR complete oil kit and removed the balance shafts, the void of the balance shafts gives the extra capacity but with out BSs you need something to control the oil sloshing around. Thus the oil kit.

http://dcrsrt.com/index.php?act=viewProd&productId=33

Also I removed the factory oil cooler, should of mentioned that. Opinions?

 

[7055]

With the factory oil cooler removed and the sump increased to 7 qts do you think it would take more time or less time to reach oil temps? Also do you think the temps would run higher or lower once the reach operating temp?

 

[TallPaul]

Originally Posted By: Gary Allan
I believe that the 51773 is the longest 3/4-16 thread filter that WIX makes. There is a bigger one, but it's shorter and has a bigger girth. I forget the number ..but it trumps the 51773 by a decent margin.
I ran out and bought one of those bigger filters a couple years ago. Had to special order it. Thing was HUGE! Maybe 4-5 inches diameter. Ran it for a few days and pulled it off. Every cold start yielded a lot of valve clatter. Maybe just had a bad antidrainback.

 

[Saab9-3]

if its 4-5 inches in diameter, I do not think my car can accomidate it.


As for losing the oil cooler.. well looks like you live in a fairly warm climate, but not be a bad idea to have an oil cooler on there, especially if you are planning on doing any racing.

 

[TallPaul]

Instead of increasing the sump capacity, why not run an ester based oil like Redline? The added heat tolerance of Redline will serve the same purpose as an expanded sump and you still will get the oil to operating temp quickly. You will certainly be able to expand the OCI lenght with Redline.

 

[Gary Allan]

Originally Posted By: 7055
With the factory oil cooler removed and the sump increased to 7 qts do you think it would take more time or less time to reach oil temps? Also do you think the temps would run higher or lower once the reach operating temp?


I assume this was a sandwich laminar oil cooler. I really partial to these units. They're very efficient for a compact package and work on both ends of the equation. You warm oil much faster and stabilize it to around coolant temp. I have one on both my jeeps.

I would not have removed it for the sake of a bigger filter. To incorporate one, I've gone down to a teacup sized filter to avoid hitting my motor mount (not doing a remote thing currently). You purge moisture faster and shave off peak oil temps that shorten oil life.

Now if you're hammering the thing and are seeing coolant temps that only stay normal based on how you keep your foot out of it (that is, you cannot fit a big enough rad to handle your power output) ..then this may alter the view a bit.

 

[Saab9-3]

Originally Posted By: TallPaul
Instead of increasing the sump capacity, why not run an ester based oil like Redline? The added heat tolerance of Redline will serve the same purpose as an expanded sump and you still will get the oil to operating temp quickly. You will certainly be able to expand the OCI lenght with Redline.


When I throw in the Ea026 (1773) I will be using Motul 8100 5w40. As far as I am aware its an ester based oil, not as much as their 300v or redline, but some nonetheless.

I may try redline down the road. Is redline's White round bottle the stuff you are talking of ? I have a local parts guy that sells it for much cheaper than 300v. Or is the redline you speak of there racing oil ?

 

[mechtech2]

You can extend your oil change intervals with a greater sump capacity.
But the longer warm up times [especially in cold weather] may counteract this, due to oil contamination .

 

[TallPaul]

Originally Posted By: Saab9-3
Is redline's White round bottle the stuff you are talking of ? I have a local parts guy that sells it for much cheaper than 300v. Or is the redline you speak of there racing oil ?
I am talking about the street oils from Redline and last I saw they were in the round white bottles. Can't run the racing oils as they do not have detergents and your engine may gunk up.

 

[7055]

How much do coolant temperatures correlate to oil temperatures?

 

[Gary Allan]

Depends (

)

Coolant temps ( we're speaking "normally" here) tend to be stable. Oil temps mostly depend on load. Ambient has a play in this, but not all that much ...at least in relation to how much it can change and only change oil temp a little.

Now if you've got some guy tracking some car and he's peaking his coolant temp in the 260F+ range, his oil temp is probably higher ..but that's a matter of too many btu's with too little outlet paths.

 

[BrianWC]

My 9-5's coolant temps swing about 40 degrees. Idle on a hot day is when temps peak. Morning highway driving is their lowest.

 

[Gary Allan]

Idle temps can creep up. That's not load related. It's dwell time/circulation rate related.