Increase in pad slaps
- Thread starter Andyd95
- Start date
I worked on euro cars exclusively.
If nothing else was wrong, like a binding caliper or stuck pads, the rotors were usually fine to receive new pads. In the area I live in, the pads last about 40k miles, though some people struggle to do 10k and a few can do more than 40k. When I was young, I could wear a set of pads down in 2k miles, these days I do 80k.
If nothing else was wrong, like a binding caliper or stuck pads, the rotors were usually fine to receive new pads. In the area I live in, the pads last about 40k miles, though some people struggle to do 10k and a few can do more than 40k. When I was young, I could wear a set of pads down in 2k miles, these days I do 80k.
Done it many times over the decades. If you know what you are doing and check and measure what would be the issue?
I check the rotor runout with a dial indicator on mag base, measure rotor thickness with a micrometer if it passes I than prep the surface with brown scotch brite. Just because you buy new rotors does not mean they will not have more runout than what you took off. Without getting into metallurgy or induction hardening issues of some non OEM parts. Not all new parts are better than what you started with. Just because it is new does not automatically make it better. How many people that slap new rotors on actually check rotor runout with a dial indicator. I bet the percent is very small
I can see replacing pads at 50,000 miles or so but by 100k time to replace or turn the rotor. Couple years ago was having a lot of vibration on the F350 & I just had a local shop put on some NAPA rotors with OEM Pads. The vibration went away 100%. I didn't have them do the rears though. I'll get them when they start vibrating or pads wear down more.
The Volvo pads were replaced at 50k but not the rotors, nor were they re-surfaced. At 134k miles the rotors are overdue with deep grooves. I'll get them changed out with new pads all the way around when I can have it down for a week in the fall. Pad slapping ok if you've done some maintenance on the rotors but it's still a gamble when reaching around 100k miles.
Look at the bright side... When I was 18 I bought a 1999 Chevrolet Trailblazer (S10 Blazer) w/75k & I put 65k on it in one year. The rear brake pad (remaining metal lol) completely fell off on me while out & about. At least one is doing something by "pad slapping".
The Volvo pads were replaced at 50k but not the rotors, nor were they re-surfaced. At 134k miles the rotors are overdue with deep grooves. I'll get them changed out with new pads all the way around when I can have it down for a week in the fall. Pad slapping ok if you've done some maintenance on the rotors but it's still a gamble when reaching around 100k miles.
Look at the bright side... When I was 18 I bought a 1999 Chevrolet Trailblazer (S10 Blazer) w/75k & I put 65k on it in one year. The rear brake pad (remaining metal lol) completely fell off on me while out & about. At least one is doing something by "pad slapping".
We turn rotors all the time, but some applications there isn't enough meat on the rotor to machine and still be in spec. Personally for any brake job on my own vehicles, I do rotors also since taking rotors down to work to machine just slows down the whole process.
The local Ford dealer here is $250.00/hour for labor.
What originally cost me $60 for a rotor is now $100 for a rotor since the tariffs for my vehicle and that is DIY, a shop will charge more because they have to make money. Other vehicles it is much more in some cases and with the rise in cost of living, parts, goods, etc people just cannot afford to replace rotors when they are already living paycheck to paycheck to begin with.
So yea more and more people are pad slapping and it is likely we will continue to see price increases and people trying to get as much life out of everything as possible.
So yea more and more people are pad slapping and it is likely we will continue to see price increases and people trying to get as much life out of everything as possible.
Once again I'm reminded of what I once heard a European automotive engineer say:
"The difference between European drivers and American drivers is:
European drivers don't care if the brakes squeal- just as long as they stop the car.
American drivers don't care if the brakes stop the car- just as long as they don't squeal."
"The difference between European drivers and American drivers is:
European drivers don't care if the brakes squeal- just as long as they stop the car.
American drivers don't care if the brakes stop the car- just as long as they don't squeal."
I pad slapped the front of my Mazda at 73,246 onto original rotors back in 2019. Still going along at 126,900 miles. Measured pads at 4mm a couple of weeks ago. 50k plus miles. Will they make it to 73k? I don't know but I think it'll be close. No vibrations. No crazy noises. These are factory rotors though. Can't say the experience would be the same with cheap aftermarkets. I'm real curious to measure the rotors at the next change. I did get new OE rotors to put on when it's time.
I've been pad slapping for a long time.
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I normally go thru 2-3 sets of pads before having to replace rotors but I don't run pads down to metal backing plate. Replaced original rotors on Forte just before it hit 100k miles and on Sportage at about 110k miles. Rotors on Sportage looked pretty much perfect and the only reason I replaced them was 'cos I was doing 3rd pads change.
Both pad and rotor life probably have a lot to do with driving habits.
Those who use the right pedal hard in traffic will also necessarily use the left pedal hard.
Those who have learned to use momentum and to time the lights without hard braking will see long life from their brakes.
I will pad slap my cars a time or two, but unless you're willing to pay for premium brand rotors, the ones you take off might be better than the ones you install. This is true of pads as well. As with most things, you get what you pay for and when you buy cheap you get cheap.
Those who use the right pedal hard in traffic will also necessarily use the left pedal hard.
Those who have learned to use momentum and to time the lights without hard braking will see long life from their brakes.
I will pad slap my cars a time or two, but unless you're willing to pay for premium brand rotors, the ones you take off might be better than the ones you install. This is true of pads as well. As with most things, you get what you pay for and when you buy cheap you get cheap.
My biggest fear is warp. Does the lathe take that out? Are you saying you don't resurface your own?
The shop at my work has a traditional brake lathe and an on the car lathe. For me personally, it is just easier to slam on new rotors.
Rotors? OEM too costly and the cheap ones are? So best to get all the life possible from the old originals.
I have rarely had to change a rotor, I guess we all here are very easy on the brakes.
I have rarely had to change a rotor, I guess we all here are very easy on the brakes.
I do pads because my rotors are bad and figure it's better off to start fresh.
Don't blame me-- I get the cars this way. They've been parked and have "lot rot."
Trucks with rotors and bearing races as all one unit have generally for me been robust enough they just need a pad slap. My plow truck and RV have sat all off-season and not been a rusty mess.
Don't blame me-- I get the cars this way. They've been parked and have "lot rot."
Trucks with rotors and bearing races as all one unit have generally for me been robust enough they just need a pad slap. My plow truck and RV have sat all off-season and not been a rusty mess.
Does Hunter or Coats/Ammco come out and maintain the standard lathe? When I worked at the dealership, the techs liked used the Ammco lathe more than the on-car. I’ve never seen it serviced. The techs taught me how to use it and they never had a comeback for DTV/shimmy and I’ve had smooth brakes when I turned rotors on it.
