Don't worry about the details of what car or CVTF I'm using, just tell me how to get the [censored] pan off that's stuck on with that orange gasket goo. I've tried wedging a screwdriver in (carefully) and that's not going in. Tried jamming a knife in, that's not working either. Any idea how to get the demonic gasket maker to release its hellgrip?
In the middle of ATF change... pan won't come off
- Thread starter horse123
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Try tapping on the side of the pan with a heavy soft mallet.
If that don't work, insert a stiff wide putty knife and twist.
If that don't work, insert a stiff wide putty knife and twist.
Try to hammer a thin paint knife in between the pan and gasket at diff points throughout the block and pan. Then as carefully as you can just keep trying to make the darn gasket to release its grip. Afterwords good luck on removing gasket shards.
And I hope you are using something like Supertech ATF also.
Originally Posted By: dave1251
And I hope you are using something like Supertech ATF also.
You want him to use ATF in his CVT?
:screwy:
OP, I've had best luck smacking the side of the pan with a mallet. Have you had this one off before or is this the factory's doing?
And I hope you are using something like Supertech ATF also.
You want him to use ATF in his CVT?
:screwy:
OP, I've had best luck smacking the side of the pan with a mallet. Have you had this one off before or is this the factory's doing?
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+1 ... To Merk's plan - the wide putty knife for less plastic deformation of pan and shear more sealant where you can. Then side motion with soft hammer to also shear sealant ...
And for the love of oil - drain plugs are cheap and easy and the filters can stay in forever if you flip a few a few quarts often enough ... Pans without drain plugs should be outlawed ... (Wish I had a pan to complain about on some of them) ...
And for the love of oil - drain plugs are cheap and easy and the filters can stay in forever if you flip a few a few quarts often enough ... Pans without drain plugs should be outlawed ... (Wish I had a pan to complain about on some of them) ...
All the above ideas should work fine. I have a Nissan that I have no idea how to do a DIY CVT fluid change on. I asked the parts desk if they sold a fill tool and I got a look like why would I need that?I hate that there are no drain plugs on many transmission pans. There is one on my Versa Note but there is NO dip stick for a refill. Dumb. So I am glad horse123 has a way to change his once he gets the pan off.
Try to find something like this....locally:
https://www.amazon.com/Engine-Transmissions-Oil-Pan-Separator/dp/B011DR95WM
https://www.amazon.com/Engine-Transmissions-Oil-Pan-Separator/dp/B011DR95WM
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One or the other or something please ? If you give me a drain plug and a fill spot - push come to shove I can measure an ounce out for an ounce back in. This is getting to be dealer robbery sponsored by OEM ...
Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
Try tapping on the side of the pan with a heavy soft mallet.
If that don't work, insert a stiff wide putty knife and twist.
Putty knife got it. Thanks for the tip.
Details revealed: it's the impreza in my signature. Factory fill at 52,000 miles (they say lifetime fluid... I say bite me, marketing team) so the orange gunk, which actually turned out to be pinkish, maybe from discoloration, was the factory "three bond" stuff. Refilling with Valvoline CVTF because they've updated their fluid to say it's specifically for metal chain CVTs, and it's available at o'reilly. It's amazing how burnt and weird the factory fill smells AND looks. I was shocked I only had a little bit of sludge on the magnet actually, I expected a heap of metal shavings.
I set the black oil-resistant gasket maker back around the rim of the pan after I cleaned the old gasket off (actually that turned out to be the most time consuming part... it was sped up a little bit by my MAF cleaner which dissolved the gasket slightly but not the powder coat on the pan). As per the gasket instructions, the pan is finger tight on all the bolts, then sometime tomorrow afternoon I'm going to go tighten it all up to the super light (5lb ft) spec and refill with the Valvoline CVTF.
Try tapping on the side of the pan with a heavy soft mallet.
If that don't work, insert a stiff wide putty knife and twist.
Putty knife got it. Thanks for the tip.
Details revealed: it's the impreza in my signature. Factory fill at 52,000 miles (they say lifetime fluid... I say bite me, marketing team) so the orange gunk, which actually turned out to be pinkish, maybe from discoloration, was the factory "three bond" stuff. Refilling with Valvoline CVTF because they've updated their fluid to say it's specifically for metal chain CVTs, and it's available at o'reilly. It's amazing how burnt and weird the factory fill smells AND looks. I was shocked I only had a little bit of sludge on the magnet actually, I expected a heap of metal shavings.
I set the black oil-resistant gasket maker back around the rim of the pan after I cleaned the old gasket off (actually that turned out to be the most time consuming part... it was sped up a little bit by my MAF cleaner which dissolved the gasket slightly but not the powder coat on the pan). As per the gasket instructions, the pan is finger tight on all the bolts, then sometime tomorrow afternoon I'm going to go tighten it all up to the super light (5lb ft) spec and refill with the Valvoline CVTF.
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Oh and the transmission pan has a drain plug but unfortunately nearly a quart stays in the pan if you just use the plug. Maybe I'll change more often now (30,000 miles) and just use the drain plug from now on. Although CVTF is expensive at $10 a quart.
I find it odd that the fluid is about as thin as my 0w-20 when it's at/just above room temperature. I'm not entirely sure how thick CVTF should be but I'd think it should be a little thicker. I'll have to observe my new fluid when I complete the change tomorrow.
I find it odd that the fluid is about as thin as my 0w-20 when it's at/just above room temperature. I'm not entirely sure how thick CVTF should be but I'd think it should be a little thicker. I'll have to observe my new fluid when I complete the change tomorrow.
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If you have a drain plug, then no need to remove the pan. The quart that remains is not an issue at all. The only time it's necessary to remove the pan and gasket is if the gasket is leaking, which would really only happen in much older cars.
The thinner fluid is typical now. Even non-CVT ATF is thinner today (in fact, even thinner than your CVTF and 0w20 is)
Amazon has Castrol CVT for under $6/qt when you buy it by the case
Castrol CVT
The thinner fluid is typical now. Even non-CVT ATF is thinner today (in fact, even thinner than your CVTF and 0w20 is)
Amazon has Castrol CVT for under $6/qt when you buy it by the case
Castrol CVT
Well the capacity for CVTF is 14 quarts and you get less than 6 out via the drain plug so I'd much prefer to get out every drop I can even if it takes a little longer. It's irritating enough to know I only get half of the capacity out when I remove the pan.
Castrol's CVTF is cheap because it's cheaply made, I'm guessing for rubber band transmissions. I wouldn't let that stuff near my car. The valvoline CVTF is updated to be specifically for metal chain CVTs like the lineartronic.
Castrol's CVTF is cheap because it's cheaply made, I'm guessing for rubber band transmissions. I wouldn't let that stuff near my car. The valvoline CVTF is updated to be specifically for metal chain CVTs like the lineartronic.
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If you change it by the mfr-spec intervals, or especially more often, draining just the 6 quarts is sufficient. Remember, most cars on the road never get a transmission fluid change.
BUT if you insist on getting all 14 quarts, you can simply do 3-4 successive drain-and-fills through the drain plug. One drain now, then drive around the block or a few miles (or even as much as 5000 miles), then drain it again, and repeat 3-4x
Castrol CVT is suitable for use on almost every CVT on the road today, including Lineartronic and other metal chain CVT's
Castrol CVT PDS which clearly mentions Lineartronic by name
BUT if you insist on getting all 14 quarts, you can simply do 3-4 successive drain-and-fills through the drain plug. One drain now, then drive around the block or a few miles (or even as much as 5000 miles), then drain it again, and repeat 3-4x
Castrol CVT is suitable for use on almost every CVT on the road today, including Lineartronic and other metal chain CVT's
Castrol CVT PDS which clearly mentions Lineartronic by name
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