Improved Thermostatic Action!!!

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The 'ol CRV seemed pretty much alright coming up on it's 2nd timing belt replacement. One thing that did not seem right is when it got on a long downhill, the temp gauge would tank cold, below "C". I wasn't shure how unusual or bad that was, but I went ahead and replaced the thermostat with a Stant Heavy Duty.

Now the gauge comes up quickly and is a hair higher, right at halfway, and it does not drop at all ever. Heat is blazing hot. The new thermostat was set at oem 180f, I don't know the source of the old one that was in there. I tested both together in hot water and it seemed like the old one opened sooner and farther. The telling thing is that when removed from the hot water, the old one took longer to close. It definately was not stuck open and could have passed as functional. Whatever the rate they react at, the new one works much better. More heat, slightly elevated OT and......the perpetual CEL is now off!!! I'm am not kidding. The code was for 2nd O2, which was replaced a long time ago, but CEL remained.
 
I think the thermostat in the vic is probably like your old one. Its slow. Alot of times even if it gets to 190* (the supposed opening temp) it cools down to 170-180 quickly once you start moving.
 
Your old one sounds like my thermostat, except mine does not drop below "C." I have a new Stant 195F that is set to arrive on Tuesday and I'll install it on Thursday. I'll report back with the results.
 
The original stat on my two year old Sierra started acting up a while ago. While initially the temp would go up to 190, the stat would not maintain it at 190, the temp would keep fluctuating between 140 and 190.

Though the truck is still under warranty, I did not bother taking it in to the dealer. I replaced the stat myself with another Delco stat and now the temp stays at 190.
 
I am very surprised that the car calls for such a cool thermostat.
You lose cruising fuel efficiency with it. Not necessarily fro sensor readings, but thermal efficiency - homostasis -constantly trying to get the head up to combustion temps.
190-195 would be better for all sorts of reasons.
 
If it works, it works.

I run a 180 stat in my 3800-powered Buick, along with a computer programmed to keep it that way. Very little variation in temperature (175-177) at cruise. The fuel economy is slightly better than a friend's car with the same engine/transmission.

For my specific application, there are many reasons why a 180* stat is better than a 195* stat. 200*+ water temperatures plus Dex-Kill equals a dead motor once the intake gaskets and upper intake manifold get eaten away.

Good that a new stat fixed a lot of your problems!
 
Depending on where they put the water outlet in relation to the water pump and everything else they may have a fudge factor to get a goal temp at the water jackets... so the water may naturally cool a bit before getting to the 180' stat.
 
Temp, mpg, cel, heat are all better. I can't get the temp to drop no matter how far I coast, I'm talking at least 3-4 miles.
 
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