Importance of Trans filter replacement?

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I have a 2000 Ford Windstar, 80k miles. Last trans fluid & filter change was at 60k with Amsoil ATF. I am due for a change now, but I really would prefer to just siphon out the fluid and fill in the new fluid. Would be very easy compared to dropping the pan since American car companies hate to use drain plugs in trans pans.

So the question is, how important is the filter really? Would just a fluid change be enough? I would never consider this with oil changes, but I just don't know enough about the trans filter...

Thanks much.
 
Some of this depends on the filter design. If it is a coarse filter, like some cars that only use a screen, I wouldn't fuss too much. I actually worry more about cleaning the pan and magnet than replacing the filter.
 
With the 91 Plymouth - assuming this is the A604 (4-spd) transmission - you'll need to make sure you use ATF+3 fluid, not the specified Dexron II (or III). The pan and filter should be relatively easy to deal with.

I would recommend a complete fluid exchange.
 
My wife has a 2002 Explorer and at 30,000 miles we had a complete fluid EXCHANGE, not a flush, at the Ford dealer. It's coming due for another tranny service at 60,000 miles. They don't drop the pan to change the filter first and then do the fluid exchange. She doesn't tow and doesn't abuse the tranny by rapid acceleration. Overall she's pretty conservative with her driving. I just wonder whether having Ford do the fluid exchange as they normally do without dropping the pan and changing the filter is ok. Adding 6 to 7 quarts of Mercon V and then exchanging out those perfectly good Mercon V quarts when when doing the fluid exhange seems like a real waste plus it's expensive! The fluid exchange is done by setting the exchanger to the fluid capacity plus a 1/2 quart additional exchange ATF fluid. If your ATF fluid is changed on a regular basis from new and you don't abuse the tranny will the filter "fall" apart in the tranny if you don't change it regulary. Heck, Ford doesn't even have a ATF fluid exchange, or even just a pan drop and fill for this vehicle and tranny
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Whimsey
 
Here is what I have done with my vehicles over the years. I drop the pan, replace the filter and clean the pan out, replace the gasket, and fill the tranny.

Since the torque converter doesn't have a plug, I drive the car for a day or so, then pump out as much fluid as I can thru the filler tube, then top it off, drive another day and do it again. I usually do this around every 24,000 - 30,000 miles max.

Someone tried selling me on the fluid exchange idea, but leaving a dirty screen/fliter in and swapping the fluid didn't sound good to me.

You can also disconnect the tranny line that brings fluid into the radiator and have the tranny pump do the work. I prefer pumping mine out from the filler tube, instead of possibly risking damage to the tranny pump.

Frank D
 
I would pay $500 extra for a vehicle with built-in designs to ease maintenance tasks AND to ensure the maintenance could be done properly.

Make those auto trannys so all the fluid can be drained. Do not tighten the pan bolts so firmly at the factory that the bulletin boards are full of reports of the near impossibility of removing said bolts.

Design filters so that they are easily replaces, not highly critical of being the slightest bit out of alignment resulting in bypass leakage (like some tranny filters.

Make the differentials so that full is when the fluid level is at the bottom of the fill hole, not at some obscure distance below the fill hole that is nearly impossible to meadure due to the curvature of the housing.

Include an easy-to-replace filter in the cooling system!!!! Have a drain plug at the lowest point of the power steering system!!!!

Add those costs and not will I gladly pay them but I would be more inclined to buy the vehicle that has that engineering.

I read of cars designed to sell 100,000 units and be profitable to the manufacturer. Surely there are more than 100,000 people such as I slavering for a well-designed vehicle with the goodies I mentioned..... and more!!!!

Advertise those unique properties and watch the customers waltz in.
 
Are trans filters easy to change out? Also, should the mating surfaces on the pan and trans or the new gasket be primed before reassembling?

I am going to help a friend change their trans fluid & filter on a '91 Plymouth Sundance. It has 107k miles, and I don't think the trans has ever been serviced. You guys should see the fluid on the dipstick!
 
quote:

Originally posted by obbop:
I would pay $500 extra for a vehicle with built-in designs to ease maintenance tasks AND to ensure the maintenance could be done properly.

Make those auto trannys so all the fluid can be drained. Do not tighten the pan bolts so firmly at the factory that the bulletin boards are full of reports of the near impossibility of removing said bolts.

Design filters so that they are easily replaces, not highly critical of being the slightest bit out of alignment resulting in bypass leakage (like some tranny filters.

Make the differentials so that full is when the fluid level is at the bottom of the fill hole, not at some obscure distance below the fill hole that is nearly impossible to meadure due to the curvature of the housing.

Include an easy-to-replace filter in the cooling system!!!! Have a drain plug at the lowest point of the power steering system!!!!

Add those costs and not will I gladly pay them but I would be more inclined to buy the vehicle that has that engineering.

I read of cars designed to sell 100,000 units and be profitable to the manufacturer. Surely there are more than 100,000 people such as I slavering for a well-designed vehicle with the goodies I mentioned..... and more!!!!

Advertise those unique properties and watch the customers waltz in.


Amen!
 
Change the filter with the first fluid swap if you are going to change the filter. The only reason may be little pieces of metal may come off from the new tranny. Other than that with the early complete exchange of the fluid with Amsoil fluid you shouldn't have to do another drain again. Its not like your engine and the synthetic will deal with the heat better.I had 3 automatics in my life all long ago never changed after the first time no problems.I look at it the same way as a rear end.Most people will never have the car that long anyway.I think its Civic that did away with filters altogether anyway. So go to NAPA with your Amsoil ATF and they will exchange all the fluid for about $50.Then FORGETABOUTIT.
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On any transmission flush or fluid exchange, you run the risk of clogging the filter if the pan is not dropped and cleaned first. If the filter clogs, say goodbye to the trans. Also consider that your first indication of a problem may be metal shavings in the pan. If you're able to detect a problem before drivability symptoms show up, you could save a bunch of money in repair bills.
 
I'm going to have a look at a 107k mile-old trans filter this weekend. I would like to take pics, and I have the equipment, but no knowledge on how to post pics...
 
quote:

Originally posted by Mr Wes:
I have a 2000 Ford Windstar, 80k miles. Last trans fluid & filter change was at 60k with Amsoil ATF. ...So the question is, how important is the filter really? Would just a fluid change be enough? I would never consider this with oil changes, but I just don't know enough about the trans filter....

Since your ATF filter only has 20k miles, you do not need to change it. It IS important but should easily last 50k+ miles.
So, this time and probably the next time, an ATF change is enough.

When you hit about 120k miles, I'd definitely would pull that ATF filter out, clean the pan magnets, and go from there.
 
In shops I have worked in, there have been thousands and thousands of transmission fluid exchanges performed, even on high milage cars that had no prior transmissions services, with absolutely no issues.

If you feel more comfortable ocassionally changing the trans filter, do so, but experience shows that it isn't critical.
 
quote:

On any transmission flush or fluid exchange, you run the risk of clogging the filter if the pan is not dropped and cleaned first.

I agree!! Ever see all the garbage that settles to the bottom of the pan in 20k or 30k miles? Most filters are just felt or a tiny screen. You don't want that garbage to get stirred up and plug the filter.
 
quote:

Originally posted by obbop:
I would pay $500 extra for a vehicle with built-in designs to ease maintenance tasks AND to ensure the maintenance could be done properly. ...

... and make it easy to refill to the proper level. Tell that to "look ma, no dipstick" ZF! At least ZF boxes DO have drain plugs, so they got that right.
 
quote:

Originally posted by Ugly3:
Has anyone ever seen a "plugged" trans filter?
dunno.gif


One of my TH400 transmissions actually. The filter plugged up on it from clutch dust/debris due to improper line pressure. Most if not all transmissions will whine or howl due to cavitation of the fluid of the filter clogs. If the filter gets plugged enough to cause a restriction, the hot fluid will cavitate between the filter and pump. Also a good way to tell if you have a leak between the filter and pump (bad o-ring or gasket).

Imagine the sound of a noisy Ford power steering pump, and thats what it sounds like.
 
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