I'm going to dump the M1 T&SUV for a "thinner" 40 weight.
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The ECU was niot touched. The exhaust in question is in use in many S4's and is made by a reputable company. It has shown gains on a dyno of 25-30 hp and ~40lb/ft of tq., according to the manufacturer. I realize these claims need to be taken w/ a grain of salt. I will dyno my car this summer.quote:
Originally posted by moribundman:
People do all sorts of mods without ever wasting a second to consider consequences. Many popular performance mods have a negative effect on torque at low RPM, and actually slow a car down at lower RPM compared to even stock. Intake mods fall often in that category. Think of a shortened, over-sized intake path with a cone filter mounted inside the hot engine compartment.
Downpipes and cat-back system surely affect backpressure and may well have a negative effect on low RPM torque, while providing more oomph only at higher RPM.
Also, the shop has probably reset the ECU. If they did that, the ECU will require some time to learn and the engine management is not yet running at peak efficiency.
To blame the oil is...well, let's just say it's preposterous.
I did give it a few days. I was really looking forward to this oil for the summer, so if anything I would have given it the benefit of the doubt. There is no denying, w/o any "data" that the egine feels more sluggish. I mean, when people claim an oil or something feels good people accept that, why can't people sense a negative?
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In order for you to notice a loss of power with your butt dyno, you'd have to lose at least 7-10 hp. Wash and wax the car. It'll be faster.
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Oh, and it's not that I don't believe that people can't possibly feel an oil having a noticeable effect regarding power. I know that my Audi feels slow and sluggish with 15w40. However, I never noticed any difference in acceleration or gas mileage between OEM mystery fill, 5W-50, 0W-40, and 5W-40 oil.
I seriously question why you switched from Castrol 0W-30. That oil was a very good match for your engine, being a thick 30 with the proper HTHS and it even met the correct VW spec. It was quite likely the factory fill. I even predicted you'd regret switching to 5W-40! And look where we are now...
I seriously question why you switched from Castrol 0W-30. That oil was a very good match for your engine, being a thick 30 with the proper HTHS and it even met the correct VW spec. It was quite likely the factory fill. I even predicted you'd regret switching to 5W-40! And look where we are now...
I would not dump an oil before 2000 miles unless I thought it was doing damage. V8, I would not be surprised if you were more happy with a 0w-40 because they are built more like a 0w-30 than a 5w-40. I still think your engine is simply quieter sounding and that this oil will run-in and feel fine very soon. The engine itself should loosen up a bit over time, myself I'd want T&S in there now when friction from break-in might be high. Not a big deal either way, just sorta a waste to move on when this fill might be coming out too early to get the full-effect. I have as much oil laying around the house as anyone here, and I'll still use my T&S for 4 solid months, it works. Anyway, if you believe CAFE is responsable for the 0w-30 recommendation, wouldn't that leave 5w-40 as a more correct option, esp in summer? 0w-30 might as well be 5w30 Mobil 1 at 10cSt unless it is 0w-30 GC, so that whole thing makes me wonder. You want a thin A3-rated oil that revs like crazy? WalMart SUPERTECH Synth 10w-30, it runs really sweet. Try that one on the Audi dealer service guys!
$2.40/q for a truely-rated A3 oil is insane. The A3 sequence is like 10x longer than the API SJ/SL test AND without make-up oil. Mobil 1 30 weights don't even test against the same, but thinner spec, A5.
[ May 23, 2005, 11:32 PM: Message edited by: Audi Junkie ]
[ May 23, 2005, 11:32 PM: Message edited by: Audi Junkie ]
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I'm almost tempted to check if my local dealer still uses 20W-50 dino juice by default.
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Well, it's not that anyone necessarily doubts your impressions. Most of us would just not change it out in the absence of anything else. You really haven't evaluated all the features/characteristics of it.
I haven't gone through all your posts ..but suppose your next choice has a consumption component that you find unacceptable? You'll have no idea how this oil did in comparison. Most of us would leave it in ..see if it has any other effects that are unfavorable (fuel economy, etc.) after we've basically run it through the gauntlet ..and then ditch it early when we've grabbed the lion's share of it's life (with T&SUV this may not be applicable - it's good for a LONG time) ..or at least the life we're gonna get out of it ..and move on to the next candidate.
But ..hey, if you're not happy with it ..you gotta do ..what you gotta do.
edited for keyboard dyslexia (pp vs. bb)
[ May 24, 2005, 11:28 AM: Message edited by: Gary Allan ]
I haven't gone through all your posts ..but suppose your next choice has a consumption component that you find unacceptable? You'll have no idea how this oil did in comparison. Most of us would leave it in ..see if it has any other effects that are unfavorable (fuel economy, etc.) after we've basically run it through the gauntlet ..and then ditch it early when we've grabbed the lion's share of it's life (with T&SUV this may not be applicable - it's good for a LONG time) ..or at least the life we're gonna get out of it ..and move on to the next candidate.
But ..hey, if you're not happy with it ..you gotta do ..what you gotta do.
edited for keyboard dyslexia (pp vs. bb)
[ May 24, 2005, 11:28 AM: Message edited by: Gary Allan ]
IIRC, he purchased the GC and stashed it for winter in favour of the T&S. Dealer had Agip in there. There is a brand we never hear about. BTW- is it 12q or 8q in that engine?
According to people I've heard from on audiworld who've had their engine replaced (I think there was two) it takes 13.5 qts. to fill a completely dry engine. However, on an oil change you can only put in 9.5-10 qts. so there is supposedely ~3qts. still in there that don't drain. It's supposed to be held by the intricate check valves and such.
In the big picture of changing your oil and the benefits/disadvantages of the choices we make in this regard, you are probably right. I think I will save this oil for after I've put a good amount of miles on the car and a "thicker" oil might hit the spot. Also, i\at that point it could probably use a good internal scrubbing and this stuff is good for that I hear. Not to mention the positive effects on seals. So i've not totally dismissed it. I just don't think it's the right choice now. I also feel my engine has a little more breaking-in to do and this stuff might be TOO protective, prolonging the process. I may be crazy but I think there is some validity in that theory.
Audi Junkie, you may very well be right about all the theories you suggest. Do you think that the engine, w/ 9000 mi., might be getting TOO MUCH protection w/ a super thick 40wt. like this? I mean, SOME wear is probably beneficial (up to a certain point) to get the engine at it's "peak".quote:
Originally posted by Audi Junkie:
I would not dump an oil before 2000 miles unless I thought it was doing damage. V8, I would not be surprised if you were more happy with a 0w-40 because they are built more like a 0w-30 than a 5w-40. I still think your engine is simply quieter sounding and that this oil will run-in and feel fine very soon. The engine itself should loosen up a bit over time, myself I'd want T&S in there now when friction from break-in might be high. Not a big deal either way, just sorta a waste to move on when this fill might be coming out too early to get the full-effect. I have as much oil laying around the house as anyone here, and I'll still use my T&S for 4 solid months, it works. Anyway, if you believe CAFE is responsable for the 0w-30 recommendation, wouldn't that leave 5w-40 as a more correct option, esp in summer? 0w-30 might as well be 5w30 Mobil 1 at 10cSt unless it is 0w-30 GC, so that whole thing makes me wonder. You want a thin A3-rated oil that revs like crazy? WalMart SUPERTECH Synth 10w-30, it runs really sweet. Try that one on the Audi dealer service guys!$2.40/q for a truely-rated A3 oil is insane. The A3 sequence is like 10x longer than the API SJ/SL test AND without make-up oil. Mobil 1 30 weights don't even test against the same, but thinner spec, A5.
Tell me if that is an absurd assumption. I mean, all the magazines test cars at new and then at 40K miles and they all seem to loosen up and get a little quicker at 40K. This has to do, I'm sure, w/ the engine reaching it's optimal seating and the components really settling in, of course.
You're right. I should have stuck w/ the GC. You are definitely correct that it is a perfect match for my engine. But reading this forum I was getting the feeling that the T&SUV would be a good summer oil to give a beating to. There are so many camps on here (all w/ compelling arguments and data) that you feel swayed when you are an "innocent babe" looking for guidance from a swarthy, "slick", well greased bunch such as yourselves. I am going to stick w/ the Motul 0W-40 for the summer and the GC (I have green and await info on the gold) in the winter. I think this will be perfect, although I know GC will be fine anytime of the year. Alot of people w/ my engine run the Motul w/ good results. The Motul also says plainly it can be mixed w/ synthetic oils, so it should be fine as far as "additive clash" or whatever. I feel bad if I disappointed the T&SUV crowd. I know this is agreat oil. My car just doesn't like it. But it is young, it needs to learn.
Any 0w-40 will shear like crazy in that engine ....you are better off going for a shear stable xw-30 like Redline, Amsoil, etc....
I'd personally run the Amsoil Series 2000, 0w-30 or Series 3000, 5w30 in this motor and I've owned three Audi's and three VW's over the past 25 years.
The Amsoil products are infinitely better than most of the "dealers" selling them, my friends M. Sparks and Pablo aside....
Tooslick
1990 Audi 100
2002 Audi TT Quattro Roadster
I'd personally run the Amsoil Series 2000, 0w-30 or Series 3000, 5w30 in this motor and I've owned three Audi's and three VW's over the past 25 years.
The Amsoil products are infinitely better than most of the "dealers" selling them, my friends M. Sparks and Pablo aside....
Tooslick
1990 Audi 100
2002 Audi TT Quattro Roadster
I really don't know squat about Audi's or most cars for that matter, but how in the world does a medium sized (presumably) sporty car need 13.5 quarts of oil?
My 2.7t V6 Audi is rated at 7.3 qts and takes 7 qts for an oil change. The 2.8, and some 2.7t's, hold about a quart less. The 4.2 V8 holds 8.9 to 11.3 quarts, depending on application, I've read.
I've never heard of any engine that had more than half a quart held back during an oil & filter change. Bur who knows, there are some strange engines out there.
I've never heard of any engine that had more than half a quart held back during an oil & filter change. Bur who knows, there are some strange engines out there.
V8 where in NY are you? i want that oil
V8Blitz,
How did the oil use test with the Agip Oil, through your dealer go? What determination? Do you have an "oil burner"?
I think the GC O-30, was the ideal oil, but does it meet Audi's warranty requirements?
I think you should give the Mobil 1 T&SUV, a chance, at least 1000 miles, and see what happens at least as mileage and use goes. Will the Mobil 5-40 meet Audi's warranty requirements? Then you're all set!
How did the oil use test with the Agip Oil, through your dealer go? What determination? Do you have an "oil burner"?
I think the GC O-30, was the ideal oil, but does it meet Audi's warranty requirements?
I think you should give the Mobil 1 T&SUV, a chance, at least 1000 miles, and see what happens at least as mileage and use goes. Will the Mobil 5-40 meet Audi's warranty requirements? Then you're all set!
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I would confirm that, at least in case of my 2.8l Audi motor. A bit less than 0.5 qt oil remain inside the engine when draining the oil -- most of it is held back in the heads by oil retention valves.
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