The engine just feels sluggish and drained w/ this stuff in there. It is not in my head either because I was very excited about this stuff and looking forward to the HTHS of 4.1 taking care of my engine in 90F days of A/C blasting and WOT's. But there is no denying the kess than enthusiastic nature of the revs as compared to the Pentosynth 5W-40 I had in there. I ordered some Motul E-Tech 0W-40. It's a little thinner but it's a real good basestock and additive package that should do the trick.
I'm going to dump the M1 T&SUV for a "thinner" 40 weight.
- Thread starter V8Blitz
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Sluggish, eh? It's just that weak Audi engine of yours. I could barely get my even weaker 2.8 V6 Audi motor to turn over with M1 5W-40 in it. Now, with Delo 15W-40 in the crankcase, I need three people to push me down a hill to get her going.
What about Amsoil 5w-40.
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Vman ..don't you want to give it a few days? I mean ..a few fuel economy runs (a few tanks) ..etc? I mean the butt dyno is a very subjective piece of equipment and it also expects something out of those pipes that may have done more to lighten your wallet in an attempt to lower your curb weight in providing forward thrust.
Why can't you live next door??
Sounds to me like a bit of placebo effect. At any rate you have the opportunity here to do 2 nights of "research" at the drag strip. One before you change the oil and one after. Then we could have some real numbers to rely on this whole thin vs thick oil battle.
I had a similar experience with a 40 weight in the wife's Aerostar. It seems to prefer a 30 weight. Anyway, if you are early in the OCI, rather than waste the oil, do you have another vehicle you can use it in? Or drain out a quart and put some 10w (just 10w, not 10wXX) in to thin down the VIIs. One quart of 10w (assuming 100C viscosity of 5 and the rest is 14 cSt) would get you on a 5 quart sump, about an 11.5 cSt, which is a nice solid 10w30 like Maxlife Synthetic.
I thought it seemed overly thick in my car when I first used it. Now it is totally transparent and neutral. I think you might find the engine to be a bit quieter and therefore the perception of less power....that's a normal reaction. My bet is a week or two and the oil will run-in a bit and you'll forget it's there until you do a level check and little has burned off.
V8Blitz.
From reading your post, be very careful to do one thing at a time. The golden rule of modding. One thing at a time.....then check to see if that 'One Thing' has made a positive or negative improvement.
From your posts, you are obviously of a very enthusiastic nature.
I have seen many folk install a $2000 SS exhaust system and then see 10% reduction of Torque on the dyno.
With all the power available in that beautiful engine of your, I do not believe that you could tell the difference between the power and torque of two 5w-40 oils. Are you sure that when the oil was being changed at your shop, no other 'performance' adjustments were being done at the same time, that might need factoring in.
New cam goes in with the oil change. CAI with K&N filter ( the worst mod in the world. Don't let anyone suck you in on that one...please)....that sort of thing won't help oil comparisons.
From reading your post, be very careful to do one thing at a time. The golden rule of modding. One thing at a time.....then check to see if that 'One Thing' has made a positive or negative improvement.
From your posts, you are obviously of a very enthusiastic nature.
I have seen many folk install a $2000 SS exhaust system and then see 10% reduction of Torque on the dyno.
With all the power available in that beautiful engine of your, I do not believe that you could tell the difference between the power and torque of two 5w-40 oils. Are you sure that when the oil was being changed at your shop, no other 'performance' adjustments were being done at the same time, that might need factoring in.
New cam goes in with the oil change. CAI with K&N filter ( the worst mod in the world. Don't let anyone suck you in on that one...please)....that sort of thing won't help oil comparisons.
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People do all sorts of mods without ever wasting a second to consider consequences. Many popular performance mods have a negative effect on torque at low RPM, and actually slow a car down at lower RPM compared to even stock. Intake mods fall often in that category. Think of a shortened, over-sized intake path with a cone filter mounted inside the hot engine compartment.
Downpipes and cat-back system surely affect backpressure and may well have a negative effect on low RPM torque, while providing more oomph only at higher RPM.
Also, the shop has probably reset the ECU. If they did that, the ECU will require some time to learn and the engine management is not yet running at peak efficiency.
To blame the oil is...well, let's just say it's preposterous.
If you decide to dump this fine oil after only a few miles could you send it to me or some other board member.
This is the oil viscosity your engine was meant to run on. Some "cheater" oils reatain the high HT/HS (>3.5) but have lower +100c viscosity, 12cSt vs about 15cSt of T&S...GC comes to mind as well as those new Mobil oils Buster pointed out. The lighter oil will feel thinner, yes...but 5w-40 is the application for your engine. If you want thinner 40 weight you need to blend your own (I topped my T&S with M1 0w-20) or go with a 10w-40 PCMO at 14cSt, not worth it, they won't last 2 months in your car. Stick it out, it's probally just quieter, like I said above.
That's one reason why I like GC and, secondly, M1 0w40.
In God we trust
All others bring data......LOL
I could clearly feel a difference when I tried 15w40, after using 10w30. It's most apparent at light throttle.
True, but this is a default grade, when 0W-30 is not available. The 0W-30, though, I feel is mopre for them to attain a decent CAFE, even if the GC and SLXII is an excellent oil. This particular oil is, I feel, making the engine slower to rev, even if it is by a small amount.
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