I’m at a loss with brake issues…

Even when I use a vacuum brake bleeder I still have someone push on the pedal while I bleed just a little bit more. I have no idea why this works, but it does.
I’ve been reading also that vacuum bleeding isn’t as “strong” as the pedal method. I might have to buy my wife to come out and help me lol
 
So I removed the ABS pump fuse and drove around and no change. I’m just trying to backtrack and think all of what I did and if I messed anything up and I don’t think I did. Even though the calipers were brand new, I removed the slide pins, cleaned them off, and used Syl-Glide and coated them well. I even compressed them by hand to make sure the boots were seated correct and nothing was binding
 
Try a gravel road, find an area where you can accelerate and then lock up the brakes. This will cycle the ABS pump in real conditions and move any air in the abs pump.
I can definitely try that as well. Are you saying that the scanner bleed sometimes isn’t enough to push the air out?
 
Try a gravel road, find an area where you can accelerate and then lock up the brakes. This will cycle the ABS pump in real conditions and move any air in the abs pump.
^ do this.

I don't mess with a lot of fords but I know on GMs the ABS bleed through the scan tool sucks (even with tech 2 or GDS2) on GMs the best way to bleed is to unhook the battery for about an hour then bleed, after the ABS module loses power the valves open and you can push fluid through it and it bleeds way better. However, forcing the ABS to cycle like the other poster stated also works to help bleed it.
 
^ do this.

I don't mess with a lot of fords but I know on GMs the ABS bleed through the scan tool sucks (even with tech 2 or GDS2) on GMs the best way to bleed is to unhook the battery for about an hour then bleed, after the ABS module loses power the valves open and you can push fluid through it and it bleeds way better. However, forcing the ABS to cycle like the other poster stated also works to help bleed it.
Do you know if this works on Fords too? Interesting that the ABS de-energizes and opens
 
OP says he replaced everything listed but the problem remains.

OP, have you seen this? Your symptoms are not an exact match but at ~2:30 he shows how to allegedly test if your ABS hcu is bad
 
OP says he replaced everything listed but the problem remains.

OP, have you seen this? Your symptoms are not an exact match but at ~2:30 he shows how to allegedly test if your ABS hcu is bad

I have not and thank you for the vid! I’ll have to test my hcu
 
I’m at a loss and looking for some advice from people that have experienced what I’m experiencing. I had this issue even prior to changing everything that I’m going to list below:

Vehicle: 2002 F-150 220k miles

Replaced: Brake master cylinder (Motorcraft), all 4 calipers with new Element 3’s, new Motorcraft blue brake pads, all rubber brake lines replaced (Motorcraft) and front lines replaced with SS lines.

I bench bled the MC, installed on the truck, then bled at the MC lines with my Motive bleeder.

Connected my Autel scanner and cycled/bled the ABS pump twice before moving on to each caliper (staring from furthest from the booster). Then did a brake bed-in procedure (Zeckhausen).

Got all of the bubbles out and even used a rubber mallet to tap on each caliper to get any and every bubble out. My problem is that when I press on the brake pedal with the engine running, the pedal makes a “whoosh” sound and travels “softly” about 1 1/2” before getting firm. Sometimes if I drive for too long and try to come to a stop, I experience brake fade and it’s hard to stop. Am I bleeding the ABS correctly? Am I supposed to bleed the ABS per caliper?

I’ve read that this could be a bad ABS pump, a bad booster (split in the diagram), or still have air in the lines.

I’m at a **** loss..
My bet is on the abs pump being bad, assuming you have good vacuum on the booster.
 
My bet is on the abs pump being bad, assuming you have good vacuum on the booster.
I’m trying to decipher (through research) if my spongy pedal is the ABS. I’ve read that a bad ABS pump would cause the pedal to continue sinking at a stop light which mine doesn’t
 
There is a bleeder on the proportioning valve also. At least there is on my older f-250. my valve was shot inside and I had to replace it. Moisture rusted it out and the cylinder inside came out in pieces.
 
Make the rod that runs from the booster into the master cylinder a smidge longer, it can't be too short or too long, its a balancing act.
 
There is a bleeder on the proportioning valve also. At least there is on my older f-250. my valve was shot inside and I had to replace it. Moisture rusted it out and the cylinder inside came out in pieces.
I may just delete the ABS altogether and update the info with my insurance company
 
You might be trying to swat a fly with a sledgehammer....I'd do some more diagnosis first.

Also...not to insult, but you didn't reverse calipers such that bleeders are on the bottom??
No offense taken. All of the bleeders are north and not south.. part of the fact that I refreshed the braking system is because the truck has 220k miles on it and it’s my DD. Could you recommend some diagnostic tricks that I can try? Others have already mentioned driving onto gravel and slamming on the brakes to activate the ABS
 
No offense taken. All of the bleeders are north and not south.. part of the fact that I refreshed the braking system is because the truck has 220k miles on it and it’s my DD. Could you recommend some diagnostic tricks that I can try? Others have already mentioned driving onto gravel and slamming on the brakes to activate the ABS
Did you see if that "valve" moves as shown in the video?

If all that checks out, you're left with booster or more bleeding. Some techs I know and trust say to bleed ABS they never bother to actuate the pump but just apply vacuum at each bleeder and pump the pedal.

I dunno, a lot of your symptoms sound to me like you still have air in the system. And I don't think it's a panacea here but I'd tap the calipers with a metal hammer to dislodge any stubborn bubbles. I think you said rubber but I don't see that doing much. But again, I don't think this will magically solve your problem.

You've also got nothing to lose with the gravel approach
 
Back
Top