If you had to choose one...

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The different oils in Amsoil's product line with the same viscosities are made with differing basestocks. You probably should take the time (since you are NOW a BiTOG reader
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) to find out about basestock chemistry and all about group I through group V (1-5).

For example, Amsoil makes 3 5W-30's, the HDD with more ester basestock (one of the true synthetic bases) and HD additives (for diesels), ASL - a PAO (one of the other true syns) based very solid automotive 5W-30 at a decent price - the oil that I think would be a great choice in your car, and the XL-7500 5W-30, which indeed is overpriced, because it's not a "true" synthetic, it's a "super refined", hydrocracked petroleum base, but it's not a synthesized base....follow me?

As for Amsoil testing, they lately have been mostly testing the ASL and it's 10W-30 brother, ATM. These oils are good oils and do well in many standardized tests, as well as in the real world. These really are the only oils I sell, along with 15W-40 and 10W-40's that are both PAO based. These oils can be had for about $4.50 a qt.
The XL's which aren't much cheaper, probably would not come close to ASL/ATM in these tests, but they are API "certified", so they fill a niche, I suppose.

[ December 22, 2003, 12:33 AM: Message edited by: Pablo ]
 
Pablo, your only recommending Amsoil because you sell it. That is what is wrong with this site at times. There are reasons why George Morrison and Johnny doen't post often bc they dont' want this kind of bias. There is no reason to run Amsoil 5w-20. Not one. It's no better then any other 5w-20 and there are oils on the shelf that are just as good or better. So there is not reason to push Amsoil in this case to be objective. I will not cuddle up with Amsoil just bc you guys are on here. This site is to try and provide the best advice for people regardless of the brand, period. Why would someone pass up M1 0w-20 Grp IV + V oil vs Amsoil's 5w-20 more expensive Grp III?

This website is not www.amsoilistheoilguy.com.

[ December 21, 2003, 12:57 PM: Message edited by: buster ]
 
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Can these test numbers alone suggest that Amsoil's oil is indeed the best or since 5W-20 wasn't tested, the same conclusions can't be drawn about it?

Absolutely Not Don't go by bench mark tests alone. Amsoil makes great oils, but the marginal difference between them and M1 is very small at this point. There 5w-20 is ok, but it's not better then the others on the market IMO. Mobil 1 0w-20 is the best 20wt out there from what I've seen. UOA's back this up.

I spoke with a Redline guy before and he said that Amsoil formulates to excell in these tests as an advertising method. S2000 was tested several years ago by Redline and they concluded this oil was exactly how they thought it was. It lived up to it's benchmark numbers, but failed in real world test. This oil has known to be hit or miss and this is exactly what they found. You can formulate to excell at the 4 ball wear test.

[ December 22, 2003, 08:33 AM: Message edited by: buster ]
 
I'd choose the regular Amsoil 5w-30/10w-30/10w-40 or S2000 over the XL-7500 series oils for several reasons that have nothing to do with emotion or arm waving
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1) The additive chemistry of the regular synthetics and S2000 is even more robust and it will simply hold up better for long drain intervals ...

2) The S2000 and regular 5w-30/10w-30 meet the performance specs of the most stringent ACEA "A3/B4" specifications.

3) Meeting the ACEA "B4" specification for TDI (turbocharged direct injection), diesel engines requires significantly better detergency and dispersancy. This trait is also highly desirable for running long drain intervals. ALL the best synthetics in Europe meet both ACEA A3 and B4 specifications ....

The current crop of GP III basestocks is very good and I've tested GP III oils for 10,000 miles in my personal vehicles with excellent results. I'd estimate that 95% of the folks who denegrate these basestocks have never even used them. To be polite, they haven't got a clue what they are talking about. I try to be as objective about this stuff as I can and the performance of the GP III stocks in terms of wear protection is roughly the same as PAO's up to 10,000 miles/16,000 km. Once you get beyond that point, I think the PAO based stuff will hold up better. However, PAO basestocks don't provide ANY inherent advantage in terms of wear protection - that is almost entirely a function of the additive chemistry and how well it works in combination with the base stock.

Since I sell synthetic lubes, it would be foolish for me not to fully understand the implications of GP III basestocks on this market. I can't afford the knee jerk reaction that says all GP III oils are bad, particularly when they are less expensive. BTW, the Petro Canada, GP III based synthetics are excellent, and haven't even been mentioned in this thread.
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Ted K.
Dixie Synthetics
 
Grp III's are fine and as you said don't provide any less wear then a PAO. It's irrelevant. But when you look at what Amsoil charges for the XL line, it doesn't make any sense what so ever to buy that oil. Trying to justify it is ridiculous and those that do are foolish. It's as simple as that.
 
The pilot calls for xw-20 weight, right? For warranty concern(if you are), then stick with that grade. The tech's recommendation(againts the manual) will not get you too far when you are claiming warranty on the motor.

FWIW, I'm running Mobil1 0W20 on a Focus 2.0L 16v DOHC, 5sp. So far I don't really see any difference(mpg, drivability, cold start, etc) compare to the factory fill Motorcraft 5W20. I switched to full synthetic since I would like do an OCI of 5k(max OCI under warranty). I'm planning to do an UOA on the next fill.

I am also using Synergyn 0w20 on the wife's MDX, right grade but not 'API endorsed'. This oil seems to give better mileage than the previous oils(factory fill,Castrol Syntec Blend).I am still undecided when to do the UOA on this fill, whether to do it at 3750,5k or the max 7500 miles.

Since you just found a vendor(local) for M1/Amsoil grade, why don't you try both for a couple of fills and do UOAs on both(second fill) and then decide which oil you would like to stick to.
 
So did I make a mistake putting in the amsoil XL-7500 into my wifes Ford focus? I am hoping to get 6-7K miles and 6 months out of the oil. Will it hold up? I can say there is a little more engine noise with this oil. Should I switch it over sooner to the S2000 5w30 or mobile 1 5w30? Its the first semi-synthetic thats been put in this focus, it was all valvoline dino the first 18K miles (with 3K change intervals) So what do u guys recommend? Should I run it till the 6 months is up and do an analysis or do one sooner?
 
The savings from buying GP III basestocks instead of PAO's is on the order of 35-50 cents per quart, according to Lubes and Greases Magazine, a well known industry trade magazine. There are some companies like Shell, selling group III synthetics for as little as $3.25/qt. What this should tell you is that companies like EM and Chevron - making PAO's in-house - can formulate & sell a PAO based synthetic for $3.60-$3.75/qt and still make a nice profit. It's no accident that Mobil 1 is often on sale for $18.88/5 qts at Walmart.

The question should be why Mobil 1 costs an average of $4.75-$5.00/qt nationally; given the modest additive package they're using?
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Amsoil 5W30 is a great Artic oil. It's spec.'s are almost a total match for the U.S. Department of Deffense Artic oil Spec. I learned this from Terry and he posted the spec. on time! I am sure someone here has the mil.spec for artic oil. I would be not feel comfortable with a 20 weight and obviously your service writer does not either! THe Amsoil 5W30 pumps and cranks much easier then M1 5W30. When it warms up go with a solid 10W30 at the minium!
 
quote:

The question should be why Mobil 1 costs an average of $4.75-$5.00/qt nationally; given the modest additive package they're using?

I agree, I think Mobil is over charging to some degree. The best 5w/10w-30 wt oils IMO are clearly Amsoil ASL/ATM.
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Down here in Georgia they seem to be selling out of the Mobil 1 0W-30 in favor of stocking the Euro 0W-40 spec Mobil 1. I'm surprised that it was not mentioned. I believe it would be an excellent choice for your area in all seasons. I use it my Covette and supercharged Mustang and have excellent oil pressure in both vehicles even when it was 100F+ the past Summer.
 
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