If you could buy a somewhat entertaining car what would you pick

No no! I could sell it for $9,931.50
That was the settlement offer. This isn’t to you in general but it cracked me up that so many people said the dart wasn’t worth near that. The insurance paid it I negotiated with them for 2 weeks and they agreed to that number. Either I’m really good at haggling ( I am decent if I’m honest)
They’re completely stupid and should be bankrupt, or the dart was actually worth that amount. 🤷🏼
Insurance companies are stupid.

A few years ago when my Camry was totaled with 200k miles, the insurance company valued it at $3,450. 6 months before I paid $2,100 for it, and I didn't even get a screaming deal. It's just what it was worth. They said without faded paint it was worth $3,950. There was no negotiation. They paid me too much for it but I wasn't gonna complain.
 
Correct. BMW does not sell internal parts. Luckily, a new trans is not too expensive. Only about $4k.

As for OP, a BMW 128 would be a great choice! Throw a three stage intake manifold on and it really wakes it up. Such a small nimble car with a 3.0 L straight six is tones of fun. Or step up to the 135i for even significantly more fun. I am kinda biased though.
$4k CDN?
 
That was my price on a replacement trans for my xdrive E90 which has a manual ZF box. I was actually shocked how affordable it is. I might replace mine, it has difficulty going into first when cold. Yes, CAD.
That’s stupid cheap for a new MT unit.
Reminds me of how inexpensive long blocks are for the eTorque equipped HEMI’s (EZL code). List is only $2470 for the long block:

 
That was my price on a replacement trans for my xdrive E90 which has a manual ZF box. I was actually shocked how affordable it is. I might replace mine, it has difficulty going into first when cold. Yes, CAD.
My Jeep Wrangler needs a clutch soon (well pilot bearing, the clutch is fine) at 150k miles. The 1st gear synchros are worn and it's hard to get into 1st gear when it's cold. A replacement AX-15 transmission is around $1600, and has all the latest updates to the synchros and bearings, so I might just replace it even though technically I can get by with the current one, especially as a 2nd vehicle. I figure with replacing the clutch, bearings, and flywheel might as well make everything new.
 
Insurance companies are stupid.

A few years ago when my Camry was totaled with 200k miles, the insurance company valued it at $3,450. 6 months before I paid $2,100 for it, and I didn't even get a screaming deal. It's just what it was worth. They said without faded paint it was worth $3,950. There was no negotiation. They paid me too much for it but I wasn't gonna complain.
You'd be hard pressed to find a decent camry around here for $2100.
 
I’d buy a 1990s Cadillac Fleetwood Brougham and LS swap it.
Though, buying a 1980s Toyota Camry or Corolla Tercel and swapping in a Prius drivetrain would be fun in a geeky way. 🤓
 
That was my price on a replacement trans for my xdrive E90 which has a manual ZF box. I was actually shocked how affordable it is. I might replace mine, it has difficulty going into first when cold. Yes, CAD.
Some BMW 'boxes apparently are a bit "grouchy" when cold. For that matter, so is the Honda Civic Type-R's. Re having difficulty getting into first when cold, I am willing to bet that almost ALL manual's are that way... of course depending on just how low the ambient temp is. I would suggest being really sure that that behaviour, on your 135i, is not typical of them all.

If I lived in a colder climate, I think I would NOT daily-drive an MT car. I find they almost ALL have to be babied, until they get to operating temp. Sometimes it takes a fair amount of time to actually get to full operating temp (of course... for the ambient temp and for the load you are putting on the gearbox).

Consider trying something like Pentosin MTF (not sure if that is the correct product-name)... but a Pentosin product that has low-ish viscosity when cold, compared to the RANGE in viscosity evident in the SAE multigrade viscosity spec'd in the manual. There is one Pentosin product (like it may be MTF or MTL)... 75W-80, that is no longer mfr'd... but New Old Stock (NOS) is still available in some of the performance autoshops.
 
Some BMW 'boxes apparently are a bit "grouchy" when cold. For that matter, so is the Honda Civic Type-R's. Re having difficulty getting into first when cold, I am willing to bet that almost ALL manual's are that way... of course depending on just how low the ambient temp is. I would suggest being really sure that that behaviour, on your 135i, is not typical of them all.

If I lived in a colder climate, I think I would NOT daily-drive an MT car. I find they almost ALL have to be babied, until they get to operating temp. Sometimes it takes a fair amount of time to actually get to full operating temp (of course... for the ambient temp and for the load you are putting on the gearbox).

Consider trying something like Pentosin MTF (not sure if that is the correct product-name)... but a Pentosin product that has low-ish viscosity when cold, compared to the RANGE in viscosity evident in the SAE multigrade viscosity spec'd in the manual. There is one Pentosin product (like it may be MTF or MTL)... 75W-80, that is no longer mfr'd... but New Old Stock (NOS) is still available in some of the performance autoshops.

It's my E90 (with 192k on it) that is bad. I drive 5-10 different BMW a day, enough to know it is not normal. I am using Redline MT-LV, which is about the lightest fluid you can get. It does not really feel like a syncro issue, almost like the detent and spring are damaged and not allowing the shift rod to slide properly.
 
It's my E90 (with 192k on it) that is bad. I drive 5-10 different BMW a day, enough to know it is not normal. I am using Redline MT-LV, which is about the lightest fluid you can get. It does not really feel like a syncro issue, almost like the detent and spring are damaged and not allowing the shift rod to slide properly.
My 2000 M5 shifted like a dump truck when it was cold had + a shifter throw longer than the entire state of florida. Short shifter fixed the second problem and swapping the factory fill for ATF made it much smoother. This was with a getrag tranny though, I think most of the newer cars use a ZF.
 
My 2000 M5 shifted like a dump truck when it was cold had + a shifter throw longer than the entire state of florida. Short shifter fixed the second problem and swapping the factory fill for ATF made it much smoother. This was with a getrag tranny though, I think most of the newer cars use a ZF.

Yep! Mine had the fluid changed, I think they used a Pentosyn product at the dealer? Seemed to help. And yes, the shifter was a common complaint, both in throw length and in the amount of play they developed with some miles under them. Nothing like a T-5 with a Pro-5-O or a Steeda Tri-Axe (my personal favourite).
 
Just a quick word about shift feel (when cold)... and maybe, in general:

I attach a snip I found somewhere, where VW comments on shift feel versus transmission longevity... i.e. gear faces wear, rolling element bearing wear, etc... (caveat... if memory serves me well). Reading it again, the comments that VW made was back when they were selling aircooled VW's... and their transaxles had final drive units with hypoid gears in it. I still, however, think the comment is valid, say, for a FWD transaxle, or a transmission for a RWD car.

What I want to say, is that for other-than-synchro wear, maybe a person SHOULD tolerate lousy-when-cold transmission behaviour... for sake of the rest of the components of the 'box. If you are patient, and compensate with, maybe, a few 'real low-speed shift points from 1st to 2nd... and refraining from trying to downshift (much) when cold, and maybe double declutching for a few of the coldest weather first-of-the-drive shifts... you will ALSO prolong synchro component wear with your choice of oil (that results in a "grouchy-in-the-morning" - but very protective, overall, oil for your transmission).

Having said this, I would say you should indeed stay in the same SAE viscosity (or multi-viscosity) range the Mfr specifies... and certainly within the Mfr specified GL-4 (or GL-5, as it happens to be) rating.

Like I said, if the ambient is cold enough, then I would personally hesitate to have a manual transmission car as a Daily Driver.

YMMV.
 

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  • 1 - Shift Feel vs Oil Quality - What VW Says.JPG
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Volvo 850R
Impreza 2.5RS
328i
Accord V6
Altima 3.5
Jetta VR6
Civic Si
Golf
Saab Viggen
I loved my 1999 Saab 93 Viggen in Lightening blue color.
Bought it with 55k in 2008 and just sold it in September with 94k. Lot of engine torque, had a Genuine Saab 3" down pipe installed, Viggen rescue kit, Modified oil pan. Lots of kind positive comments where ever I went.
I have owned over 35 Saab's.
 
I loved my 1999 Saab 93 Viggen in Lightening blue color.
Bought it with 55k in 2008 and just sold it in September with 94k. Lot of engine torque, had a Genuine Saab 3" down pipe installed, Viggen rescue kit, Modified oil pan. Lots of kind positive comments where ever I went.
I have owned over 35 Saab's.
@Pequod
That's one of my favorite vehicles that I never owned, along with the Volvo 850 T5-R with iPd upgrades 😁.
 
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