I have a RAM 1500 on factory order, expected to arrive in a month or 2. The truck will have the 3 liter hurricane. Thinking of dumping the factory fill at about 1000 miles and filling with PUP or mobil 1 ESP in the 0w-20 variety. Plan on using the truck's OLM to determine drain interval. I saw that my Walmart has Mopar filters so maybe they stock one that fits the hurricane I need to read up on filters before committing to one.
If you bought a new vehicle today?
- Thread starter George_Neighbros69
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Transmission is holding up. It gets fresh Idemitsu fullsyn instead of WS.
Valley plate I've done--twice. The first time I reassembled, the o-ring on the crossover tube rolled and it leaked.
It's been ok since, although I'm not sure I trust that O-ring will ever be entirely leak free. But the coolant level holds pretty solid. I've topped off the tank once since February. That's manageable.
The CSF radiator really take a lot of heat out. I'm probably not going to even add a transmission cooler because on a scorching summer day I can't get it over 210F on the transmission temp.
Any synthetic on sale 5/30 irrelevant what the manufacturer called for with OE filter and when the OLM hits 25%
Yeah I always thought of 2010-2013 as having transmission issues and the infamous valley plate leak. At least you know how to fix it yourself. Oof at having to do it twice. My condolences.
Good to hear yours likes the non OEM ATF. How’d you decide on Idemitsu? I’ve always heard to go OEM on Toyota ATF And coolant.
After the first shorter change in engine and trans, HPL of some flavor as well as in the diffs later on. 10k+ OCI, UOA dependent, micro guard or stp xl oil filter.
Carlostrece
$100 Site Donor 2025
I like ICE cars from 1996-2000. I wouldn't buy a new car, but if I did, it'd be an electric car.
SammyChevelleTypeS3
$50 site donor 2023
After the great mid 60s to late 70s cars. I liked how the American Auto Makers woke up around 1986 and started making performance and some quality again. So many widespread technology gains and additions sure, but for some reason The (in name only) now "American Big Three" can not seem to escape quality control (lots of design) issues one after another. Power train issues are never a good thing and they all have their forms of that as well. Seems when one solves theirs one of the others pops up.
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Yes. 90’s through early 2000’s were the peak of longevity and dependability IMO. All on conventional and syn blend oils.
Since the higher tuned EFC P code version specs 0W-40, I would ask "permission" from the service manager to use at least a quality 5W-30 grade. That little engine in STD tune is making close to a 440 wedge BB power.
First generation Tundras fall into this category, and I think they're some of the best trucks made. They just keep going.
Carlostrece
$100 Site Donor 2025
I meant to say I like Buick & Jeep ICE cars from 97-05. For other brands I like 95-05. I also like some recent electric cars. I'm not a fan of recent ICE cars. My 97 Buick gives me much less problems than newer ICE cars give my neighbors. My late 90s Jeeps never had any problems.
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5-6k UCI with Quaker State Euro.
Carlostrece
$100 Site Donor 2025
What's a UCI? Is that Euro Change Interval?
My new truck is a 2004 F-150. My other truck is a 2004 Chevrolet Silverado. Both have high miles, 304k and 190k respectively. I use Mobil 1 ESP 0w30.
If I were looking at new, I'd shop for something still using port injection and natural aspiration.
If I were looking at new, I'd shop for something still using port injection and natural aspiration.
Some new models, such as some Toyota's, use multi-port injection. So you get the cleaning of intake valves from the port injection and more efficient atomization of fuel from GDI.
Honda doesn't use port injection, but one of the main reasons for choosing the Pilot was because it's still naturally aspirated.
I have a Ram with the 3.0 Hurricane. The only place I've seen that OEM filter available was at the dealer, or online MOPAR parts dealers. I'm currently running the FRAM FE on mine.
Carlostrece
$100 Site Donor 2025
I'd put a pair of Filtermag SS neodynium magnets on the exterior of stock Mopar oil filter at the dealership before driving it home. Then no need to change oil & filter early.
Filtermag will remove fine metal particles from the oil, including ones that are too fine for filter material to remove.
I'd leave the factory fill oil & filter in place for 5000K miles, then change oil & filter.
I think Mobil 1 ESP is the better choice of the 2 oils you mentioned. For oil filter, I think NAPA Gold is the best.
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In photos you can see a pair of Filtermag, then a pair of Filtermag installed on exterior of oil filter, then see a cut open filter where you can clearly see metal particles stuck to inside of filter can where the Filtermag had been.
Carlostrece
$100 Site Donor 2025
At each oil change the newly installed filter isn't full of oil at the first startup after oil change. This means a dry start with no oil pressure for several seconds longer than usual. There's insufficient lubrication during that time, but there is some lubrication during that time due to certain oil additives that cling to metal surfaces.
Better oils have more/better additives. So with better oils this is less of a concern.
If you prefill the new oil filter as much as possible before installing, that reduces this concern by helping get oil pressure faster. However, oil filter cannot be fully prefilled if the filter installs/mounts horizontally.
If your filter mounts horizontal, you can partially prefill it by filling it when it's upside down on a table, let oil soak in for 5 min, then install filter on engine. Then it's partially prefilled.
The most ideal and easiest is don't change the filter early. Then you have one less filter change in the life of the new engine. There's no need to change oil or filter early if you put strong magnets on the oil filter. See prior post.
I define changing oil & filter ontime as 5K miles for mostly city driving. 10K for mostly highway driving. 7.5K for a 50/50 mix of city/highway driving. If in doubt, you can't go wrong changing oil & filter at 5K.
Better oils have more/better additives. So with better oils this is less of a concern.
If you prefill the new oil filter as much as possible before installing, that reduces this concern by helping get oil pressure faster. However, oil filter cannot be fully prefilled if the filter installs/mounts horizontally.
If your filter mounts horizontal, you can partially prefill it by filling it when it's upside down on a table, let oil soak in for 5 min, then install filter on engine. Then it's partially prefilled.
The most ideal and easiest is don't change the filter early. Then you have one less filter change in the life of the new engine. There's no need to change oil or filter early if you put strong magnets on the oil filter. See prior post.
I define changing oil & filter ontime as 5K miles for mostly city driving. 10K for mostly highway driving. 7.5K for a 50/50 mix of city/highway driving. If in doubt, you can't go wrong changing oil & filter at 5K.
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