Zee09
$200 Site Donor 2023
- Joined
- May 5, 2018
- Messages
- 22,761
No age is..... it tempers ones nonsenseIs an analyst helping you with that?
No age is..... it tempers ones nonsenseIs an analyst helping you with that?
Works for some cars. Not all.Schedule: follow the owner's manual (most likely every 5k or 6 months).
Brand of oil and filter: cheapest synthetic on sale, and cheapest oil filter
Sure. I don't buy cars that need special attention above owner's manual though. I tend to avoid vehicles that need extra attention above typical.Works for some cars. Not all.
It’s not always easy to determine that when you first buy a new car thoughSure. I don't buy cars that need special attention above owner's manual though. I tend to avoid vehicles that need extra attention above typical.
I agree with you. I have a Toyota with a legendary engine, probably their best V6 ever, and a Nissan which isn't my first choice, but at least the engine is bulletproof. QR25DE doesn't have too many issues in the later years.Sure. I don't buy cars that need special attention above owner's manual though. I tend to avoid vehicles that need extra attention above typical.
Exactly. The other issue is that Subaru owners (among others, not trying to pick on just Subaru, but they like to burn oil later on) will read this and think they can buy anything and be fine even with 5k mile OCIs.It’s not always easy to determine that when you first buy a new car though
Agree. Every manufacturer has had oil burners at this point even the great Honda and Toyota. That’s why something like R&P is a safe bet for 99% of vehicles. I can’t imagine buying a $80k+ new vehicle with a new engine design and gambling. I’d honestly consider Amsoil SS or HPL from day 1.The other issue is that Subaru owners (among others, not trying to pick on just Subaru, but they like to burn oil later on) will read this and think they can buy anything and be fine even with 5k mile OCIs.
I did that with the wife's Subabu, O'Reilly labeled Dexos stuff and a microgard - engine never ran more terrible. So back I went back to Valvoline maxlife and a Tokyo Roki. Runs much much better-er.I mean I've sorta turned into an EV fanboy but if I bought a NEW ICE/hybrid car today it would get whatever the cheapest full syn oil that meets the manufacturer spec in 7500mi/6mo intervals or the cars oil life monitor (whichever comes first) because I don't trust GDI/TGDI cars to go further than that.
People seem to have good luck with Kirkland and Supertech here, FWIW. I don't think I'd roll the dice on a Subaru though.I did that with the wife's Subabu, O'Reilly labeled Dexos stuff and a microgard - engine never ran more terrible. So back I went back to Valvoline maxlife and a Tokyo Roki. Runs much much better-er.
Nine extra bucks every four months ain't gonna kill me.
But if I find some good cheap stuff I'll be all over it - like the once loved now gone Supertech MP filters and Castrol Magnatech
But lately it hasn't gone that way.
Huh... I've never in my life had a customer complain about our store brand oil making a difference to how the vehicle runs and I've run it in so many personal, friends, and family vehicles for over a decade now. And almost all the commercial customers buy the house brand oil too unless the car requires something specific that is only stock in Mobil1 like the Euro 0W-20 or whatever. Never had trouble with Supertech either and I've used that plenty of times as well... But to each their ownI did that with the wife's Subabu, O'Reilly labeled Dexos stuff and a microgard - engine never ran more terrible. So back I went back to Valvoline maxlife and a Tokyo Roki. Runs much much better-er.
Nine extra bucks every four months ain't gonna kill me.
But if I find some good cheap stuff I'll be all over it - like the once loved now gone Supertech MP filters and Castrol Magnatech
But lately it hasn't gone that way.
Sustainable for themselvesYes, they're just trying to make them sustainable.
Most customers are clueless about their cars unless it something blatantly obvious. It's also hard to tell how an oil really is performing without a teardown and that is not going to happen on daily family haulers. I have noticed what I call excessive thinning and increased racket under heat and stress on some "budget" brands, but that is, of course, not a reliable observation. Also the filter and oil are a pair and I can't separate the two unless I yank the filter mid OCI for some "perceived" issue. I have done this in the recent the past and noted a major improvement. Folks here will gasp, but I yanked a classic Fram Ultra and replaced it with a Supertech MP and saw an improvement in engine racket. Fully documented on these pages with a post and photos.Huh... I've never in my life had a customer complain about our store brand oil making a difference to how the vehicle runs and I've run it in so many personal, friends, and family vehicles for over a decade now. And almost all the commercial customers buy the house brand oil too unless the car requires something specific that is only stock in Mobil1 like the Euro 0W-20 or whatever. Never had trouble with Supertech either and I've used that plenty of times as well... But to each their own![]()
Interval: April/October regardless of mileageIf you purchased a new car today and planned to handle all the oil and filter services yourself, what would be your oil change schedule, mileage interval, and preferred brands for oil and filters? For my personal vehicles, I use Pennzoil Ultra Platinum oil and a mix of Carquest, Mircoguard, Fram endurance, and Mobil filters. Years ago I used Mobil oil and purolator filters.
Just my opinion but I would do maybe a 7500 OCI. 10 k is a lot of miles. I personally do 5k as many say is a good routine. Just put some PUP in my kids beater Accord so might go crazy and take that to 6k.We do a lot of highway driving so I'd follow the Toyota recommended 10,000 mile OCI with either OEM or Fram Ultra filters and Kirkland/Supertech oil. I have 170,000 miles on my Camry is runs great so I don't see a need to do anything extraordinary. If I bought a more "delicate" car that had a turbo or high output engine or was known for potential engine issues, I'd adjust my OCI. I was gung-ho and changed the Camry's oil at 5000 miles the first oil change, then 10,000 at the dealer then I changed it myself every 10,000 miles since.
Yeah. Louvers are crazy! I don't mind if they are open correctly but I've seen so many bad ones it's crazy. I'm happy with a nylon cage.I’d run a full synthetic meeting the manufacturers recommended specifications for around 5k-7k miles. Filter would need to have holes instead of louvers.