If you bought a new vehicle today?

[rstsco]

The most ideal and easiest is don't change the filter early. Then you have one less filter change in the life of the new engine. There's no need to change oil or filter early if you put strong magnets on the oil filter. See prior post.

Personally, if the oil has ran long enough to need to be changed, then the filter needs to be changed, also. Think about how much oil is poured out of a filter after removal. If it's not changed, that amount of oil, along with the oil remaining in the engine, will be mixed with the new oil. Instead of changing the oil, you're really doing an exaggerated top-off.

Some things can only be seen by cutting open the filter for inspection, e.g. the high amount of carbon deposits in the filter this past OCI. Totally unexpected on an engine only having 10k miles, and this being the third OCI at 5.6k miles having only used AMSOIL Signature Series since 494 miles. Speculation is the carbon is due to switching to 87 octane fuel (Honda Pilot, so designed for it, allegedly), even though using Top Tier gas. I've switched back to premium 91/93 octane, so we'll see. Drove to Wisconsin yesterday and Shell stations can be pretty sparse in the midwest, especially along I-35. Tried to use stations known for having good fuel additive packages, e.g. Shell, Exxon/Mobil, Chevron, BP. But sometimes you have to use the best you can find. So this OCI's non-controlled experiment may be a bust. Still have several thousands of miles to see how it goes.

 

[4wd]

Personally, if the oil has ran long enough to need to be changed, then the filter needs to be changed, also. Think about how much oil is poured out of a filter after removal. If it's not changed, that amount of oil, along with the oil remaining in the engine, will be mixed with the new oil. Instead of changing the oil, you're really doing an exaggerated top-off.

Some things can only be seen by cutting open the filter for inspection, e.g. the high amount of carbon deposits in the filter this past OCI. Totally unexpected on an engine only having 10k miles, and this being the third OCI at 5.6k miles having only used AMSOIL Signature Series since 494 miles. Speculation is the carbon is due to switching to 87 octane fuel (Honda Pilot, so designed for it, allegedly), even though using Top Tier gas. I've switched back to premium 91/93 octane, so we'll see. Drove to Wisconsin yesterday and Shell stations can be pretty sparse in the midwest, especially along I-35. Tried to use stations known for having good fuel additive packages, e.g. Shell, Exxon/Mobil, Chevron, BP. But sometimes you have to use the best you can find. So this OCI's non-controlled experiment may be a bust. Still have several thousands of miles to see how it goes.

So I change 7 of 8 quarts of EP oil and keep an EP filter for a second 5k OCI and that’s an exaggerated top-off ?
Well, I’ll give you the exaggerated part …

 

[jadmt]

Personally, if the oil has ran long enough to need to be changed, then the filter needs to be changed, also. Think about how much oil is poured out of a filter after removal. If it's not changed, that amount of oil, along with the oil remaining in the engine, will be mixed with the new oil. Instead of changing the oil, you're really doing an exaggerated top-off.

Some things can only be seen by cutting open the filter for inspection, e.g. the high amount of carbon deposits in the filter this past OCI. Totally unexpected on an engine only having 10k miles, and this being the third OCI at 5.6k miles having only used AMSOIL Signature Series since 494 miles. Speculation is the carbon is due to switching to 87 octane fuel (Honda Pilot, so designed for it, allegedly), even though using Top Tier gas. I've switched back to premium 91/93 octane, so we'll see. Drove to Wisconsin yesterday and Shell stations can be pretty sparse in the midwest, especially along I-35. Tried to use stations known for having good fuel additive packages, e.g. Shell, Exxon/Mobil, Chevron, BP. But sometimes you have to use the best you can find. So this OCI's non-controlled experiment may be a bust. Still have several thousands of miles to see how it goes.

unless it is a cartridge filter which I change every oil change but I doubt it is has but a couple ounces at most. I do cut it the media out as it is super easy and always clean so in reality if I could do it psychologically I would leave it between changes but then again I am changing at 3000-4000 miles....

 

[tired]

I'd put a pair of Filtermag SS neodynium magnets on the exterior of stock Mopar oil filter at the dealership before driving it home. Then no need to change oil & filter early.

Filtermag will remove fine metal particles from the oil, including ones that are too fine for filter material to remove.

I'd leave the factory fill oil & filter in place for 5000K miles, then change oil & filter.

I think Mobil 1 ESP is the better choice of the 2 oils you mentioned. For oil filter, I think NAPA Gold is the best.

===

In photos you can see a pair of Filtermag, then a pair of Filtermag installed on exterior of oil filter, then see a cut open filter where you can clearly see metal particles stuck to inside of filter can where the Filtermag had been.

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This filter magnet seems like a good idea. Very interesting. Quite expensive though.

 

[GW.]

This filter magnet seems like a good idea. Very interesting. Quite expensive though.

Not as good as the filter magnets but I pulled the trigger. Made in Montana!

 

[tired]

Personally, if the oil has ran long enough to need to be changed, then the filter needs to be changed, also. Think about how much oil is poured out of a filter after removal. If it's not changed, that amount of oil, along with the oil remaining in the engine, will be mixed with the new oil. Instead of changing the oil, you're really doing an exaggerated top-off.

Some things can only be seen by cutting open the filter for inspection, e.g. the high amount of carbon deposits in the filter this past OCI. Totally unexpected on an engine only having 10k miles, and this being the third OCI at 5.6k miles having only used AMSOIL Signature Series since 494 miles. Speculation is the carbon is due to switching to 87 octane fuel (Honda Pilot, so designed for it, allegedly), even though using Top Tier gas. I've switched back to premium 91/93 octane, so we'll see. Drove to Wisconsin yesterday and Shell stations can be pretty sparse in the midwest, especially along I-35. Tried to use stations known for having good fuel additive packages, e.g. Shell, Exxon/Mobil, Chevron, BP. But sometimes you have to use the best you can find. So this OCI's non-controlled experiment may be a bust. Still have several thousands of miles to see how it goes.

How would carbon from the fuel end up in the oil filter? Seems like it's a long way from the combustion chamber. Obviously fuel ends up in the oil with fuel dilution, so it's feasible, but seems a bit of stretch.

 

[tired]

Not as good as the filter magnets but I pulled the trigger. Made in Montana!
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That is compelling! Especially with the Black Friday deal. I may join you!

 

[rstsco]

How would carbon from the fuel end up in the oil filter? Seems like it's a long way from the combustion chamber. Obviously fuel ends up in the oil with fuel dilution, so it's feasible, but seems a bit of stretch.

Not saying fuel is the source, but considering all the other controllable variables have remained constant, it's what's left. The Honda is DI only, so doesn't get the cleansing afforded to having port or multi-port injection. Hopefully this OCI will have better results.

Previous oil changes, I'd struggle to see the new oil on the dipstick. After this last change, the remaining bit left the oil slightly darker, making it easier to see. After yesterday's 1200 miles' drive, the color doesn't look to have changed. I'm cautiously optimistic at this point.

 

[burbguy82]

1.) I would use severe service intervals
2.) I would use a certified engine oil, of the next higher grade, for example if the engine called for 0w20, I would use 0w30 or 5w30.......adhereing to the global guidlines of the viscosity not the US schedule.
3.) I would run before an oil change, one full serving of a fuel additive with PEA for gas, or equal in diesel applications.

 

[GaryMX5]

I've bought two new mazda's in the last 9 mos. I use 0W-20 QS full syn in both. Both also get Mazda filters (Japan and/or Thailand made). First change occured at aprox. 1500 miles on both. The next ocurred or will occur at 5K miles then a planned 5K OCI after that.

 

[Carlostrece]

Personally, if the oil has ran long enough to need to be changed, then the filter needs to be changed, also. Think about how much oil is poured out of a filter after removal. If it's not changed, that amount of oil, along with the oil remaining in the engine, will be mixed with the new oil. Instead of changing the oil, you're really doing an exaggerated top-off.

Some things can only be seen by cutting open the filter for inspection, e.g. the high amount of carbon deposits in the filter this past OCI. Totally unexpected on an engine only having 10k miles, and this being the third OCI at 5.6k miles having only used AMSOIL Signature Series since 494 miles. Speculation is the carbon is due to switching to 87 octane fuel (Honda Pilot, so designed for it, allegedly), even though using Top Tier gas. I've switched back to premium 91/93 octane, so we'll see. Drove to Wisconsin yesterday and Shell stations can be pretty sparse in the midwest, especially along I-35. Tried to use stations known for having good fuel additive packages, e.g. Shell, Exxon/Mobil, Chevron, BP. But sometimes you have to use the best you can find. So this OCI's non-controlled experiment may be a bust. Still have several thousands of miles to see how it goes.

We have a miscommunication. He has a brand new vehicle. He was considering changing oil & filter early this first time for early removal of breakin metal wear particles from oil. I'm saying there's no need to change oil or filter early if he puts magnets on the oil filter to remove all sizes of ferrous metal particles from the oil.

 

[Carlostrece]

This filter magnet seems like a good idea. Very interesting. Quite expensive though.

It is a bit spendy, but it's a one time expense. Each time the filter is changed, you slide the Filtermag off the old filter and put them on new filter.

Filtermag SS costs less than Filtermag MC or MB. The SS is plenty good enough. I use a pair of SS. The SS are sold as single magnet or a pair. I recommend buying a pair of SS.

Their website isn't very good. I called their support phone number for help choosing the correct size SS pair.

Even though their website is not ideal, it's somewhat helpful. Their products are top notch. https://www.shopfiltermag.com/choose-your-filtermag/

 

[tired]

It is a bit spendy, but it's a one time expense. Each time the filter is changed, you slide the Filtermag off the old filter and put them on new filter.

Filtermag SS costs less than Filtermag MC or MB. The SS is plenty good enough. I use a pair of SS. The SS are sold as single magnet or a pair. I recommend buying a pair of SS.

https://www.shopfiltermag.com/choose-your-filtermag/

I think I will go the Gold Plug route like Glenda. Seems like a very strong magnet. But you're correct; it's a one time purchase, and you can transfer from vehicle to vehicle easily.

 

[Carlostrece]

I think I will go the Gold Plug route like Glenda. Seems like a very strong magnet. But you're correct; it's a one time purchase, and you can transfer from vehicle to vehicle easily.

I have a Gold Plug. It's great, but serves a different purpose. A drain plug magnet isn't big enough to remove all the glitter from the oil (and it's not intended to). An oil plug magnet provides a convenient way to visually see how much ferrous metal and particle size. If it's fine particles, it's normal. Medium and larger pieces of metal would be a concern for impending failure, IMO.

i.e. - A Gold Plug (or other magnetic drain plug) is a good diagnostic tool. It's tiny magnet cleans some, but it's a drop in the bucket compared to what 16 much larger magnets will clean.

Each Filtermag SS contains 8 magnets. A pair of Filtermag SS contains 16 magnets. Each of those 16 magnets is more than 2x larger than a Gold Plug magnet.

A pair of Filtermag SS wrapped around outside of oil filter has more than 32x more magnet size and surface area and all the oil flows through the filter close to the Filtermag. The Filtermag purpose is to remove all ferrous metal particles from oil. It does that well (2 or 3 microns and larger), but you can't see the results until you cut open the filter can and see the metal particles stuck to inside of can (where magnets where on exterior of can).

Filtermag works great for removing ferrous particles, but inspecting results is not convenient (unless you were already going to cut open filter). Gold Plug makes inspecting results convenient.

With both a pair of Filtermag SS and a Gold Plug, I can conveniently inspect the Gold Plug at OCI time. I expect to see little or no ferrous particles on my Gold Plug.

Is any of this necessary? No.
Is it helpful for an older car? I think it's somewhat helpful, but draw you own conclusions.
Is it helpful for a new car (especially on its first OCI)? Yes. I think it'd be very helpful during 1st OCI because new engines generate lots of ferrous metal particles during breakin. I think it'd continue to be helpful for the initial 30K miles because the engine takes 30K to fully breakin.

If you can't afford a pair of Filtermag SS and a Gold Plug, I think the Filtermag should be the priority, especially for a car with under 30K miles.

 

[tired]

It is a bit spendy, but it's a one time expense. Each time the filter is changed, you slide the Filtermag off the old filter and put them on new filter.

Filtermag SS costs less than Filtermag MC or MB. The SS is plenty good enough. I use a pair of SS. The SS are sold as single magnet or a pair. I recommend buying a pair of SS.

Their website isn't very good. I called their support phone number for help choosing the correct size SS pair.

Even though their website is not ideal, it's somewhat helpful. Their products are top notch. https://www.shopfiltermag.com/choose-your-filtermag/

What's the difference between the SS and MC or MB?

 

[Carlostrece]

What's the difference between the SS and MC or MB?

Each SS has 8 magnets. A pair of SS has 16 magnets. That is plenty good enough. No need for more.

Note: Each magnet is more than twice as big as a Gold Plug magnet (or any other drainplug magnet).

Each MC & MB has 10 magnets. A pair of MC or MB has 20 magnets.

The difference between MC & MB is cosmetic (color, logo). One of those (MB I think) you can have your custom logo printed on it for your business/fleet/racing team.

I suggest getting a pair of SS in the proper size that fits the diameter of your oil filter. Don't waste money paying more for MC or MB.

 

[tired]

Each SS has 8 magnets. A pair of SS has 16 magnets. That is plenty good enough. No need for more.

Note: Each magnet is more than twice as big as a Gold Plug magnet (or any other drainplug magnet).

Each MC & MB has 10 magnets. A pair of MC or MB has 20 magnets.

The difference between MC & MB is cosmetic (color, logo). One of those (MB I think) you can have your custom logo printed on it for your business/fleet/racing team.

I suggest getting a pair of SS in the proper size that fits the diameter of your oil filter. Don't waste money paying more for MC or MB.

Unfortunately looks like they're out of stock ATM.

 

[Carlostrece]

Unfortunately looks like they're out of stock ATM.

What's ATM?

 

[tired]

What's ATM?

Sorry. ATM = at the moment

 

[Carlostrece]

Sorry. ATM = at the moment

Call them next week. They make excellent products and provide good telephone support, but they do a poor job of maintaining and updating their website.

Summit Racing (and many others) sells Filtermag SS, but you'd need to know for sure what size (part #) you need to fit the diameter of your oil filter. If you're not sure what part # you need, call Filtermag next week.

When I bought mine, I had to call Filtermag so I could know which size/part # to buy. Their website has a semi automated tool/app that is supposed to tell you the size and part # that fits your filter, but that tool/app wouldn't run on my phone.