If you bought a new vehicle today?
- Thread starter George_Neighbros69
- Start date
In FL, you change your oil when it's cool enough to work in the garage.
For my 2023 Cadillac XT4, I use NAPA brand full synthetic 5W-30 (calls for 0W-20), AC Delco filter, 3,500 mile (give or take) interval. Transmission fluid is going to be a drain and fill every 20K or so and antifreeze drain and fill with Dexcool every 3 years. Edit: transfer case and rear axle was done at about 25,000 and will do again at about 60,000 miles.
Last edited:
I'm curious of the AC Delco. Champ build? Perhaps the same as the Super tech? You should post a C&P.
A new car today? Surely I would drain any oil if has oil that is thinner than I'm comfortable with. Then, I would drain and refill at about 500 miles and then continue with M 1 ESP 0W-30 for the remainder of its life.
Is that the new VTEC Pentastar or 2L turbo in your new Wrangler? The reason I inquire is I just leased a Compass Limited with the detuned turbo. I would not own this technology, but don't mind a 2 year lease. Cheap Jeep leases right now on '25 leftovers OTW this car is WAY overpriced for a purchase near MSRP. (By the way, the associated Hyundai-sourced 8 speed transmission is absolutely stunningly well sorted in this car)
Was going to run the MOPAR spin on filter (I think it's similar to a GM LS V8 filter)
Any reason to avoid? I may peek in some at Walmart to make an initial assessment. No clue on oil choice, but ESP could be in the cards for this engine as it is spec'd at 5W30 mid HTHS. Car/engine runs very cool may not need a high HTHS ACEA oil.
Thanks - Arco
Last edited:
No 3.6L
How does the Jeep like the ESP? - did you even change the oil yet? Is that not a 0W20 oil cap engine?
I have a soft spot for 60 deg V6. Love the 2.8 G.M. VARAJET carb'd engines on my S10 and Citation X-11 back in the early 80's. Both with manual transmissions. Got 'em just before GM choked these little buzz bombs with small port heads and F.I. Laughed at the 123456 Zündfolge; at least it is easy to remember!
Well at least you have a cartridge - easy to inspect and no need to cut the thing open!
Thanks - Arco.
Jeep loves the ESP. Changed the dealer bulk oil right away. Yes spec is 0W-20 but while off roading I’m getting oil temps close to 250f so I upped a grade.
I remember those 2.8’s. Great engine!!
Last edited:
For convience I'd probably just end up using Mobil 1 ESP 5w30 one of the best reasonably priced off the shelf oils you can buy, and then whatever Premium Gaurd XL rebrand I could get at the most reasonable price. Going all out I'd probably go with one of the No VII HPL lubes and the EP Carquest Filter.
Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 0w20 or even the 5w-30,,,,,,,,,, AMSOIL Signature Series is also a fine consideration, if in warmer climates,,,,, it is best to stay with in API , SQ-GF-7 family of oils for domestic or Japanese/Korean,, unless you have a EURO vehicle then use a EURO oil.
tdi jerry
$100 Site Donor 2026
Most people fall under severe service.
ST synthetic or whatever is cheaper except Quaker State. I ran Pennzoil Platinum in the Escape, leaks like a sieve like they all do. Pennzoil Ultra in the RV all the normal LS leaks. Spending any extra really hasn’t did anything from I’ve seen. Interval wise would be too much to extrapolate. But if we move the new place I’ll go 10k with ST in whatever Toyota she decides maybe longer.
I’m running OEM filter and Mobil 1 Advanced Fuel Economy 0W16 in my 2024 Prius Prime at the recommended 10,000 mile intervals.
No early change because the engine doesn’t run much during my normal use mostly as an EV.
I do watch the oil for signs of moisture in the winter such as mayonnaise on the dipstick and I have forced the engine to run more and heat up to dry out the oil.
No early change because the engine doesn’t run much during my normal use mostly as an EV.
I do watch the oil for signs of moisture in the winter such as mayonnaise on the dipstick and I have forced the engine to run more and heat up to dry out the oil.
It would depend on the vehicle and how it’s used and where it’s used, if it’s garaged, etc. Sticking with the PGI filters regardless of which oil.
Hybrid— go 0w one grade thicker than oil cap. 0w-20 is a great choice for anything start stop, as long as it’s a premium synthetic. I’d be using Mobil 1 ESP, as the ester content is critical in a start/stop cycle to reduce cranking wear. 4k-5k mileage interval at most.
—Non hybrid, parked outside up North, cold winter starts a high percentage of use: 0w-30 ESP (or other 0w-30 with ester and PAO).
— As above but in a warmer area: Mobil 1 0w-40 Euro FS or Supercar (former ESP recipe) or x3 ESP 0w-40.
— As you go warmer on your coldest possible start or have more frequent restarts, you can step up to a 50 grade if needed to get HTHS > 4.2. I like Mobil 1 15w-50 as it has a big dose of antiwear and 15W is still sufficient for many climates.
It’s really about trading off two mutually exclusive variable— rapid flow at startup and high HTHS once the flow arrives. If you want to pony up for HPL Premium Plus PCMO in 5w-50 it’s probably the best general use oil money can buy for the lower 48.
Last edited:
I think with a hybrid in BC especially, I don't see a way you can qualify for normal service. I wouldn't do that personally, but to each his own. I also wouldn't run Mobil 1 Advanced Fuel Economy. Have not seen the most confidence-inspiring used oil analysis here for it. Seems on the thin side. I'd probably run Mobil 1 ESP or Valvoline Restore and Protect 0/5W-30. If a 30 weight makes you nervous, then run 0W-20.
If you're stuck on 10k intervals, then at least get a used oil analysis.
I'd watch this and take it to heart, but I also don't believe in buying new cars. I like maintaining old ones.
I likewise do not buy new cars and when I do buy a used car, I prefer ones that are toward the end of their production run and "proven." My Accord's K20c4 is the last year they produced that powertrain for the accord, after 5 years of post-launch development. I think it helps.
For my 2025 Pathfinder ..
Dealer oil change at 2500 miles . Done .
5k OCI from now on .
0W-20 for the next three oil changes since Nissan is paying for it . Actually until the warranty is out .
Nissan OEM filters until the warranty is out .
Last edited:
Speaking of, how's your transmission and valley plate on your 2011 GX? Didn't want to go with an earlier one with the 2UZ?
I bought a new truck (see signature) in August. I've given this some thought. Initially, I'll be running the OEM-suggested 0w-20 oil. I've chosen Valvoline RP for the first change, will be run up to about 5000 miles, at which time I'll send a sample for analysis and see how it performed. I may readjust weight / brand / OCI depending on the test results. My reasoning for using Valvoline Restore and Protect stems from the fact that this truck has a twin-turbo six-cylinder engine (Hurricane standard output, 420 hp). The cleaning properties of the Valvoline Restore and Protect should be good for reducing / eliminating any coking in the hot section of the turbos. Stay tuned!