If you bought a new vehicle today?
- Thread starter George_Neighbros69
- Start date
I have a 2018 Titan . It uses an old school maintenance reminder that is factory default set for 5k miles . I've noticed that the oil is pretty black when I drain it . Nearly all of my driving consists of fairly short trips and I'm sure that's not helping matters . I reset the maintenance reminder to 4k and I'll probably stick with that .
Wow, I don't think I would do that.
Maybe 1000 miles
If I bought something new I'd probably do the same regime I'm been doing on my current cars.
Mobil/Pennzoil/QS/Valvoline/Napa synthetics according to best rebates sales and promotions.
Mobil/Pennzoil/QS/Valvoline/Napa synthetics according to best rebates sales and promotions.
Subaru Forrester Wilderness...Change oil and filter at 1000 then every 5000. Mobil 1 0w30 with Tokyo Roki filter... and a new crush washer
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We have a 2025 Mazda CX-5 that is now one year old. At the first 500 miles from 0, I changed the oil with a genuine Mazda black can filter and Mobil 1 5W20. We are now on the second free dealer oil change. I am going to change it from here on out at 5000 miles with the OE Mazda black can filter. Once I get done with some Pennzoil Platinum 0w20 and Castrol EDGE Extended Performance 0w20 (the 20K version) I am switching it to Mobil 1 ESP 0W20 until the warranty is up, then onto whatever is the latest and greatest xW30. That will be quite a while though, as it's the wife's car and she short trips. Probably does less than 10K miles per year. Mazda now offers a 10 year/100K mile powertrain warranty, since last year.
Here we go, doing first change at 920 miles.
I’m not resetting the OLM. Planning on doing another when 40% left. Then will take to Chevy for the free change at whatever is normal, maybe 5%?
I’m thinking I may do in between changes at 50% initially. Want the L87 to at least start off on the right foot.
Got these $4.57 each, box of 12. I do have some new WIX XP from the old car, but am choosing to use OE for now.
I’m not resetting the OLM. Planning on doing another when 40% left. Then will take to Chevy for the free change at whatever is normal, maybe 5%?
I’m thinking I may do in between changes at 50% initially. Want the L87 to at least start off on the right foot.
Got these $4.57 each, box of 12. I do have some new WIX XP from the old car, but am choosing to use OE for now.
Can save him a phone call. No Toyota dealerships use TGMO unless you ask for it specifically (and pay more). They use whatever is the cheapest bulk oil they can get.
TOYOTA is embedded within the ILSA committee.
TGMO has been defined as the contemporary ILSAC spec (or JASO GLV-1 for 0W-8) in the indicated grade.
Any brand with the Starburst.
TSB excerpt from way back in 2006:
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I have had three subarus develop engine knocking in less than 1k miles. One started on the way home, LOL.
Dealer Tech on a ride along used this excuse for my concern, "Well the base model Foresters don't have much insulation"
My wife drives them under warranty and we let them knock away.
Personally I could not stand that horrendous engine racket in my car.
I would check out @Glenda W.'s experience here. You might be able to get to 60 or 100k before you burn oil with that setup. (I believe have a similar engine. Maybe NA vs turbo though.)Subaru Forrester Wilderness...Change oil and filter at 1000 then every 5000. Mobil 1 0w30 with Tokyo Roki filter... and a new crush washer
I know it's been explained before, and my dad even explained it to me. But I always found it interesting that Subarus sound like air cooled VWs when they get older.
Man the knocking on the way home. I'm on a 6.2 forum and someone said they didn't make it home. That made me cringe. We've knock on wood (no pun) made it 917 miles thus far....
OVERKILL
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Yes, I'm not going to bother to repost it, since I was informed that I have to provide a short literary masterpiece as an accompaniment to each slide, lest it irritate the scrotum of the copyright Gods who would then come down on the forum with the force of 10,000 Hiroshimas, driving it straight into oblivion and we all would surely perish, being well within the blast radius (except perhaps @Shannow, as Oz is likely far enough away).
I know. I Just want random lurkers and readers to understand that Toyota service can install any ILSAC GF-Xx spec oil in the recommended grade and call it Toyota Genuine Engine Oil on the R.O.
Now is it true that the current TGMO offering does NOT contain the extra high moly dosage (and other boundary lube protection goodies) that many may be expecting with XoM's TGMO?
Maybe now only seen in the latest 8 and 16 grades?
I am trying to recall the latest VOA without doing a search ...
Thanks - Arco
Bought a new Civic Type R in July of 23. I've been running 5000 mile OCI with a variety of oils, but am currently in the middle of a 7000 mile OCI of HPL Premium Plus 0W-30. I drive a healthy amount of miles which includes significant expressway miles so at 5000 miles I am changing my oil every 2 months. I'm going to do a used oil analysis on the 7000 mile OCI of HPL and check the health of the oil and check fuel dilution.
Recently added 3 new vehicles to the family fleet. 1 TGDI Hybrid, other two are GDI only. All are receiving 6 mo or 3k intervals, whichever comes first, using a major brand synthetic oil and dealer filters.
Yes, they're just trying to make them sustainable.
Ok thanks for clarifying. I did not understand that from your original post. That is helpful. I knew that they used any old bulk oil they can get cheaply that is API and ILSAC certified, but didn't know that they could also call it TGMO.
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Is an analyst helping you with that?