If the seals are good, why no Synthetic?

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Yuk

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With the searches I've done, I can't find a definitive answer to this question.

Auto-Rx Frank says, once seals have been cleaned and conditioned with ARX, synthetic oil can not be used. He states the ARX benefits will be lost and the engine will possibly leak again.

If the seals have been cleaned, conditioned, and are undamaged, how can synthetic oil cause the engine to leak? Don't all synthetic manufacturers, and oil engineers, state that the use of synthetics only cause leaks when a false seal has been broken by the synthetic oil's cleaning capabilities? If this is the case, the synthetic couldn't cause leaks because the false seals were removed by the Auto-Rx.

Someone please explain this, I'm confused.
 
If that's what Frank says, I'd have to say he's wrong. You're right, if the seals are good, then there's no reason synthetic would cause any leaks. I remember a while ago Frank was trying to tell people something about synthetic attacking seals, which is of course not true. If that was the case, all engines old and new with synthetic would be leaking.

[ October 20, 2004, 03:12 AM: Message edited by: ZmOz ]
 
What i said is synthetic oil is fine to use as cleansing oil with Auto-Rx. Rinse cycle needs "Dino Oil" than go back to synthetic suggest you use 3 ounce maintenance program to keep gains and protect seals.

If you have a leak you need to go with non synthetic NO SEMI-Synthetic-High mileage Oil. When the leak is stopped YOU DECEIDE WHAT OIL YOU WANT TO USE I FIRMLY BELIEVE 3 OUNCES OF AUTO-RX NECESSARY PARTICULAIRLY IN LEAK SITUATION FIXED AND SYNTHETIC OIL GOING BACK IN

IF SEALS ARE GOOD USE ANY SYNTHETIC YOU LIKE.
 
If the seals are good, then any oil can be run.
I think that all the confusion comes from people either, trying to fix or slow a seal leak, or what happens when a false seal(sludge) is dissolved.

ARX has no impact at all on seals, other than cleaning around them. Many leaks are due to contaminants lodging up underneath seal against the journal end. To fix them you must first clean out the debris. Secondly you must get the seal to reconform to the shaft. In this part of the process a true dino oil is best. A dino oil will tend to shrink and stiffen seals around the shaft.
Allowing the seal to find the old memory. In my opinion, if you are working towards stopping a seal leak I would run the rinse phase, after ARX treatments with dino, and at least one more 3000 mile run on dino efore switching to a synthetic.
Allow enough time to have the seal conform, first.

Although dino works best in the rinse phase, it also acts like a safety zone so that if your motor was operating on false seals, then you are already in a position to have it stop, once the false seal is removed.

Hope this makes some sense.
 
Frank,

I started this topic because of the statement you made below to me by email two days ago:

"10-18-04 Hello John and thank you for your e-mail You can't use Mobil 1''AFTER YOU HAVE HAD A LEAK " INGREDIENTS IN THE COMPLEX ADDITIVE PACKAGE ATTACK THE SEAL AND THE LEAK STARTS AGAIN. You need to use Auto-Rx (1 bottle) again and remove "SYNTHETIC" oil. Go back to "Dino" and drive for up to 3000 miles and give SIMPLE ADDITIVE PACKAGE' TIME TO REPAIR SEAL. E-mail me your address and i will send you a bottle at N/C"

I appreciate the free bottle, but nowhere in your emailed response did you say anything about the need to use 3 oz maintenance doses. You do say conclusively, that "You need to use Auto-Rx (1 bottle) again and remove "SYNTHETIC" oil."

I am an enthusiastic, honest and precise user of automotive products,
but I'm afraid these constantly changing instructions don't allow for proper use of your product. Please provide instructions that are consistent and not confusing.
 
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