Hehehe... What happened to Fords and Chevys being easier to work on than Japanese?
Idiots at Ford!!
- Thread starter steeltoe
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FowVay,
What I did on that plug was break the porcelin off the old plug & then you can take it out without a deepwell socket. Only way to get to the plugs is take the front tires off & go thru the wheelwells. Then I made a mental note never to buy or work on one again. Think it took 6 hrs to do the same thing on that vehicle I can do on mine in 20-30min.
What I did on that plug was break the porcelin off the old plug & then you can take it out without a deepwell socket. Only way to get to the plugs is take the front tires off & go thru the wheelwells. Then I made a mental note never to buy or work on one again. Think it took 6 hrs to do the same thing on that vehicle I can do on mine in 20-30min.
I just looked under the hood of an '07 Cadillac Escalade (new style) yesterday. I was really impressed at how easy everything was to reach. The spark plugs especially were all very easy to reach, especially on the driver's side. I'd expect the new Tahoe, Suburban and Yukon to be similar.
I don't even bother with that anymore. Only a little bit of fuel comes out when you remove the filter (or an injector), and if you're prepared to deal with it (have some paper towels ready) it's no big deal.
Both Taurus sedans have the plastic clips on the fuel filter, which are easy to remove.
I despise the guys that mounted the oil filter at an angle on the block, so that you dribble about a cup of oil all over the starter every time you change the oil. Or the idiots that used a plastic that softens on the headlight switch, shorting the lights out as you drive down a road at night, and then had yet another bright idea to mount it behind the dash so that per the manual you're supposed to remove the dash to replace it (I managed to replace it without removing the dash). If you're gonna use cheap components that don't last at least make them easy to replace, but NO, not at Ford. The same goes for the stupid chirping fan motor, AC parts that fail and then require $1000 to repair as they need to remove the dash.
On the '93 Taurus I'm working to fix a water leak in the trunk, as I found the spare tire sitting in about a quart of water. Now I know that the car was only able to take advantage of late 20th century technology, and that ole Mr Water, he be tricky, but you'd think that we could do better.
Sometimes I want to stand on the corner and yell "Yes I'm a moron, as I bought not one, but two Fords!"
:^)
I despise the guys that mounted the oil filter at an angle on the block, so that you dribble about a cup of oil all over the starter every time you change the oil. Or the idiots that used a plastic that softens on the headlight switch, shorting the lights out as you drive down a road at night, and then had yet another bright idea to mount it behind the dash so that per the manual you're supposed to remove the dash to replace it (I managed to replace it without removing the dash). If you're gonna use cheap components that don't last at least make them easy to replace, but NO, not at Ford. The same goes for the stupid chirping fan motor, AC parts that fail and then require $1000 to repair as they need to remove the dash.
On the '93 Taurus I'm working to fix a water leak in the trunk, as I found the spare tire sitting in about a quart of water. Now I know that the car was only able to take advantage of late 20th century technology, and that ole Mr Water, he be tricky, but you'd think that we could do better.
Sometimes I want to stand on the corner and yell "Yes I'm a moron, as I bought not one, but two Fords!"
:^)
"I think the problem with the headlight switch isn't so much the plastic as it is the wiring and terminals--they're too small and heat up too much."
I think it usually ends up being a low cost solution that isn't, as they should have used a thermoset material or at least a high temp thermoplastic, instead of a thermoplastic that softens with heat. Bakelite from the firs tpart of the last century would have probably worked better.
I think it usually ends up being a low cost solution that isn't, as they should have used a thermoset material or at least a high temp thermoplastic, instead of a thermoplastic that softens with heat. Bakelite from the firs tpart of the last century would have probably worked better.
It shouldn't be getting hot enough for the type of plastic to matter. Also, if it's getting that hot, the PVC insulation on the wire itself isn't much going to like it either, and will turn brittle and break off...
Apparently someone at Ford agrees with me, since they're using headlight relays in all of their vehicles now, and they started in 1991. Now the only current the headlight switch has to pass is about 100mA for the relay coil.
I think relays can solve a lot of automotive electrical problems and can make an electrical repair permanent. Case in point: The defroster switch burned up on my brother-in-law's 1993 Ford Escort. This, by the way, was a Mazda switch and connector. I could tell because of the connector design (it looked nothing like what Ford usually uses and looks like connectors I've seen on other Mazda vehicles).
The switch was fried and so was the connector.
I went to the wrecking yard and got a new switch and connector. I went to Autozone and got a generic 30 amp relay (sold for aux lights). I wired the relay up so that the switch controlled the relay which in turn controlled the defroster grid.
Now the switch won't burn up again. If anything burns up, it'll be a $3 relay.
In retrospect, I probably could've just used the existing switch and connector if I cleaned them up, as long as I used a relay. The switch wasn't totally fried, just fried enough that it wouldn't pass the high amperage required for the defroster grid. But it doesn't take much current to kick a relay coil on.
[ April 11, 2006, 09:33 PM: Message edited by: brianl703 ]
Apparently someone at Ford agrees with me, since they're using headlight relays in all of their vehicles now, and they started in 1991. Now the only current the headlight switch has to pass is about 100mA for the relay coil.
I think relays can solve a lot of automotive electrical problems and can make an electrical repair permanent. Case in point: The defroster switch burned up on my brother-in-law's 1993 Ford Escort. This, by the way, was a Mazda switch and connector. I could tell because of the connector design (it looked nothing like what Ford usually uses and looks like connectors I've seen on other Mazda vehicles).
The switch was fried and so was the connector.
I went to the wrecking yard and got a new switch and connector. I went to Autozone and got a generic 30 amp relay (sold for aux lights). I wired the relay up so that the switch controlled the relay which in turn controlled the defroster grid.
Now the switch won't burn up again. If anything burns up, it'll be a $3 relay.
In retrospect, I probably could've just used the existing switch and connector if I cleaned them up, as long as I used a relay. The switch wasn't totally fried, just fried enough that it wouldn't pass the high amperage required for the defroster grid. But it doesn't take much current to kick a relay coil on.
[ April 11, 2006, 09:33 PM: Message edited by: brianl703 ]
I used to be the store manager of a quick lube and I have replaced hundreds of the Ford fuel filters that use the special tool. Here is how to do it:
First, some definitions:
fuel line = (the actual line from the tank, and the actual line to the engine)
fitting = stainless bell shaped piece that goes over the fuel pipe
fuel pipe = pipe that is on each end of the fuel filter
1. remove safety clamps from each fuel fitting and slide away from the filter.
2. take some WD40 with a wand and spray inside the fuel fitting to loosen up any dirt
3. take a wrench and tap the fuel fittings to get the dirty WD40 out
4. hold the filter and then fuel line, one in each hand, and try to push the fuel line further onto the fuel pipe. there should be about 1/8" of play. If there is no play, keep tapping the fitting and get more dirt out.
5. when you have enough play, push the line as far as you can onto the fuel pipe.
6. while the line is as close the filter as possible, take the special tool and insert it into the fitting. It should click. You MUST be holding the line as close to filter as possible when you do this. If it doesn't click, try prying the tool into the fitting with a screwdriver.
7. While holding the tool STATIONARY (biggest mistake here) pull the fuel line OFF of the filter.
The key here is you NEED to have that play in the line and you NEED to push the line onto the fuel pipe as hard as you can. then hold the tool stationary once you get the tool clicked into the fitting. I always see people try to just push the tool into the line and then start pulling. that's how it takes 4 days to do it. If you follow my instructions, you'll get it right away every time!
Andy
First, some definitions:
fuel line = (the actual line from the tank, and the actual line to the engine)
fitting = stainless bell shaped piece that goes over the fuel pipe
fuel pipe = pipe that is on each end of the fuel filter
1. remove safety clamps from each fuel fitting and slide away from the filter.
2. take some WD40 with a wand and spray inside the fuel fitting to loosen up any dirt
3. take a wrench and tap the fuel fittings to get the dirty WD40 out
4. hold the filter and then fuel line, one in each hand, and try to push the fuel line further onto the fuel pipe. there should be about 1/8" of play. If there is no play, keep tapping the fitting and get more dirt out.
5. when you have enough play, push the line as far as you can onto the fuel pipe.
6. while the line is as close the filter as possible, take the special tool and insert it into the fitting. It should click. You MUST be holding the line as close to filter as possible when you do this. If it doesn't click, try prying the tool into the fitting with a screwdriver.
7. While holding the tool STATIONARY (biggest mistake here) pull the fuel line OFF of the filter.
The key here is you NEED to have that play in the line and you NEED to push the line onto the fuel pipe as hard as you can. then hold the tool stationary once you get the tool clicked into the fitting. I always see people try to just push the tool into the line and then start pulling. that's how it takes 4 days to do it. If you follow my instructions, you'll get it right away every time!
Andy
Well, familiarity breeds contempt.
I own 2 Fords, by choice, just because I know their weaknesses and I don't have to worry about surprises.
I have Changed fuel filters on 4X4 Expeditions and Navigators, replaced plugs and coils on countless of the same. Replaced 100s of MAF sensors and DPFE sensors and done more recalls on Contour/Mystiques than 99.999% of the population, yet I choose to drive Fords. I recognize that all autos have their foibles and weaknesses. Whether you own a Maybach or a Ford Escort, you will have problems with them.
Every couple of months our group of Ford techs would have lunch with the GM boys down the road and exchange war stories. After lunch you had GM techs saying "I am ****ed glad I don't work on Fords." On the way back to our shop I know we all thought, "****ed glad I don't have to work on GMs."
As far as that '93 Taurus goes, chirping fans and melting light switches and connectors happen. At least you didn't buy a Contour.
I own 2 Fords, by choice, just because I know their weaknesses and I don't have to worry about surprises.
I have Changed fuel filters on 4X4 Expeditions and Navigators, replaced plugs and coils on countless of the same. Replaced 100s of MAF sensors and DPFE sensors and done more recalls on Contour/Mystiques than 99.999% of the population, yet I choose to drive Fords. I recognize that all autos have their foibles and weaknesses. Whether you own a Maybach or a Ford Escort, you will have problems with them.
Every couple of months our group of Ford techs would have lunch with the GM boys down the road and exchange war stories. After lunch you had GM techs saying "I am ****ed glad I don't work on Fords." On the way back to our shop I know we all thought, "****ed glad I don't have to work on GMs."
As far as that '93 Taurus goes, chirping fans and melting light switches and connectors happen. At least you didn't buy a Contour.
I think the problem with the headlight switch isn't so much the plastic as it is the wiring and terminals--they're too small and heat up too much.
I fixed that problem in my 88 Mustang GT (before the switch failed completely) with one of those headlight harnesses that puts the headlights on relays with the headlight power taken directly from the battery. Got it at http://www.suvlights.com and the headlight switch runs a lot cooler now. (It used to get quite warm).
I fixed that problem in my 88 Mustang GT (before the switch failed completely) with one of those headlight harnesses that puts the headlights on relays with the headlight power taken directly from the battery. Got it at http://www.suvlights.com and the headlight switch runs a lot cooler now. (It used to get quite warm).
Sounds like a disconnect on the steering shaft might be the only way.
You are not the first person who I have heard complain about the filter location on Expeditions, so I believe it.
It's weird though because it takes all of maybe 10 minutes to change the filter on my Ranger. Just remove the fuel pump fuse, run the truck until it dies, unbolt the filter, press the buttons on two of the disconnects in, remove the clip on the third and reverse the process to put the new filter in. Nothing is in the way and the only tools needed are a wrench and a flat screw driver.
It's weird though because it takes all of maybe 10 minutes to change the filter on my Ranger. Just remove the fuel pump fuse, run the truck until it dies, unbolt the filter, press the buttons on two of the disconnects in, remove the clip on the third and reverse the process to put the new filter in. Nothing is in the way and the only tools needed are a wrench and a flat screw driver.
It was real easy on F250, but fuel filter was a nigthtmare on Mazda 626.
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