I Think I Know Why Honda Recommends Leaving Factory Fill Oil in So Long

[RC211V]

This will add to the mix:

Why is it that the Australian market states explicitly to change the oil at 600 miles, for an S2000? This is the same vehicle, motor, everything that the NA market gets. So why the different OCI?

Nobody has given me a factual answer yet.

Iam wondering if calling Honda Australia would provide me with a technical answer or just a coached marketing one

Also, anyone willing to guess how much moly is in a UOA of a S2000? Try 753ppm after 3750 miles!

UOA available upon request.

 

[heyjay]

quote:

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Originally posted by Michael SR:

quote:

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Originally posted by heyjay:
A friend of mine in Salt Lake City finished restoring a 1970 Chevy C-10 and he put in an LS-1 with 4L60E. ... 2. Use priming tool to prime oil system

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how did he prime the oiling system on the LS1?

-michael

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Good question, since that was an LS1.

Since the LS1 doesn't have a distributor but has "up integrated" Coil Per Cylinder ignition, he hooked up a "bump switch" to the starter solenoid, removed all the plugs, and cranked it until oil pressure came up.

He had to repeat this several times as he didn't want to run the starter motor longer than 30 seconds, even with the plugs removed. The starter became quite hot so he let it cool 5 minutes between "priming" attempts.

All in all, quite a pain in the a**. I learned from him and hopefully if I ever buy a crate LS1, I'll be able to find an electric Pre Lube system for it.

Jerry

 

[Captal]

quote:

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Originally posted by crossbow:
I got my oil changed at 3500 at the dealer and asked for 5W30 instead of the 5W20 recommended(I actually watched him change it as well).

Capital...

You might want to check out some UOA's on your engine before just going with 5w30 oils.

In the mazda 6s (3.0 V6 Duratec Based) going from 5w30 mobil1 to 0w-20 mobil1 supersyn in one case dropped some of the wear metals over 50%!

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Maybe I'll run the 5w30 during the summer and then switch to 0w20 next winter... I thought that the 5w30 would provide less wear since it's thicker?

Hmm, well since I'm going to be changing my oil this week I'm guessing my next change will be in another 4-5 months which puts me smack in the middle of summer- so maybe I'll run a 10w30 until winter and then run something else... geez this sure gets complicated

 

[Michael SR]

quote:

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Originally posted by heyjay:
A friend of mine in Salt Lake City finished restoring a 1970 Chevy C-10 and he put in an LS-1 with 4L60E. ... 2. Use priming tool to prime oil system

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how did he prime the oiling system on the LS1?

-michael

 

[1 FMF]

my understanding is the molybdenum additive in oil is a friction modifier and would inhibit proper break-in of a new motor (primarily piston rings?). Case in point is redline oil- they have huge amounts of moly, and if you look on their bottle it will read "do not use before 3000 miles". So, maybe all the moly in the oil is lengthening the break-in process for a honda, which is why they say go 7k miles before changing the oil. But then why use an oil high in moly in the first place

?

When you say honda factory oil is high in moly, is that a virgin analysis on new oil by any chance?
You state UOA shows 479ppm moly after 2800 miles. Are you sure this isn't from piston ring wear on break-in

?

Also, I know there are different assembly lubes. I thought most were graphite, or a lithium compound? But I guess if a moly-based assembly lube is used, it would show up in UOA. I don't know if moly-assembly lubes are widely used in newly-rebuilt motors though.

[ February 16, 2004, 12:39 PM: Message edited by: 1 FMF ]