I replaced one tire on my awd car
- Thread starter TiGeo
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I, personally, wouldn’t deny warranty coverage for a AWD system fault/ failure just because of the tread depths, how I can prove this is the sole reason behind the failure of the component?
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In our case Michelin Premier LTX with 27k. I thought Costco was gonna say you need to buy 3 new. Nope. Just prorated 1 and not a Premier as discontinued. Cost us $103.
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On my Xdrive BMW 328i, I have a 3mm difference F/R.
Wouldn't tire pressure differences make as much change in diameter as a few mm of wear?
Wouldn't tire pressure differences make as much change in diameter as a few mm of wear?
Of course which makes some of this almost ridiculous that it could be so sensitive to this. Or my car coming with a compact spare.
drving like I assume you do..........on the street............I am sure they wont last too long.
I ate up the last set b/c my toe was out up front, got about 20K miles out of a set of the PSAS4. Should have gotten at least 30K.
I think that efficiency is measured wrong, time to destination should be a part of it.
A while back, I knew and idiot......his excuse for driving fast, was to limit exposure to the police.....kind of makes sense.
Of course @TiGeo I am not calling you an idiot, just thought it was applicable
On every AWD claim we made for hyundai, they wanted pictures of each tyre with tread depth gauge. more than 2mm difference was an instant denial
denial for what? drivetrain issue?
if the rear wheels weren't driven anymore on an AWD car. could be clutch pack or transfer case.
2mm is 2/32". Wow...that's nothing.
wel, it was an almost weekly occurance to find a destroyed AWD.... Sometimes the owner knew, sometimes not
Just a fragile system/design flaw? Being blamed on 2mm tire difference? These are just fwd-biased clutch-based systems with open diffs right?
Yes, different generations but in essence the same as your golf. Tucson and Santafe.
I think it's a programming issue, not allowing enough slip before engaging.
Mitsubishi, we had no failures at all, but they came with a 2wd/4wd/lock switch. in 2wd the slip has to be extreme before the rear wheels get driven (It could still happen I was told)
Sees like a reasonable assertion b/c 2mm of tire difference isn't causing it.
How do you know?
Have you designed their system?
To slip or not to slip is the question and it is a trade off.
Too much slip and it will be claimed that your AWD sucks (roller test), not enough slip and somebody will claim that circumference tolerances are too tight.
Krzyś
Have you designed their system?
To slip or not to slip is the question and it is a trade off.
Too much slip and it will be claimed that your AWD sucks (roller test), not enough slip and somebody will claim that circumference tolerances are too tight.
Krzyś
I know b/c I understand the sytem and have "real-world" experience driving around on it for the last 6 years/112K miles and at times with tires/wheels that haven't always been the same circumference (but admittedly not wildly different). My take is simply that the fwd-based part-time awd systems that uses clutches to engage the rear wheels (and open diffs) don't have as rigid of a requirement for tire wear differences than are let on by tire outlets but I do get it, easy to just say "change all 4" than to have any chance of a come-back with awd system damage, even if it's completely unrelated/coincidence which I'd say is more often the case than damage from a few mm of tire difference which can happen with just air pressure differences.
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