I put in synthetic, now I have a leak!

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You can use synthetic High Mileage 10W30 to address this or use 10W30 HDEO or/and add Stop Engine Leak to your engine!

All these should greatly reduce the leak!
 
I'd run the Auto-RX treatment with the current fill of (full synthetic) and then switch to an HDEO synthetic 5W-30.

With a stock-mild flat-tappet camshaft and stock valve spring pressures, it's probably not going to be a big deal to run the SM oil, but for added insurance, the higher ZDDP in the HDEO would help me sleep better at night.
 
Thicker oils leak and burn less.
A straight 30 is VERY thick compared to multigrade 'X'-30s when cold or warm. Of course when fully hot they are similar.
This is most likely why there is oil seepage now.
40 year old technology and parts [very aged parts!] are leak contributors.

I doubt any synthetic could cause a leak in 2 days from seal modification.
A check of the WHOLE PCV system is in order, as a starting base.
Remember that if there are gasket leaks, the PCV system may not draw properly.

You may like a 15-40 HDEO oil in that car, where you live.
 
This is obvious, but whenever I do an oil change I have a few drips on the driveway from oil that comes out onto the frame or other engine bits when I replace the filter. I'd try Valvoline MaxLife in a 10W-30 or 5W-30 variety. Good results for me on a high mileage Grand Marquis, and no drips! What oil does the manual spec. for the car?
 
Would love to see pics of this beast.....

As for oil, personally I'd use a 10W-30 HDEO like Rotella 10W-30.
 
I would recommend Auto Rx BEFORE changing any seals....I ahve heard of may success stories with it....I wish I knew about before I changed my rear main on my RX 300

Good luck!
 
After doing all the suggestions mentioned above...I would recommend changing oil to Valvoline Maxlife 5w30 (Syn or Blend)

Valvoline Maxlife has a good record of swelling seals and stopping minor leaks.
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2003 Ford Focus (2.3L) / M1 5w20EP / OCI: 1 year or 10L +/-
 
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Originally Posted By: mechtech2
I doubt any synthetic could cause a leak in 2 days from seal modification.
A check of the WHOLE PCV system is in order, as a starting base.
Remember that if there are gasket leaks, the PCV system may not draw properly.



It may have been as long as 5 days. I had the car for a few weeks and checked daily - no leaks. I changed the oil, no leak the first day for sure. Of course sometimes there are old leaks around, (including where I did the change) so I had to start parking in different locations to make sure.

After careful checking, all I can say is that the car was not leaving any oil on the ground overnight but a few days after changing to synthetic it was.
 
Originally Posted By: Oregoonian
After doing all the suggestions mentioned above...I would recommend changing oil to Valvoline Maxlife 5w30 (Syn or Blend)

Valvoline Maxlife has a good record of swelling seals and stopping minor leaks.


Since it's what the previous owner used, I was going to use Valvoline anyway. But wouldn't I use the blend? The syn is why I'm dripping oil now, right?
 
Originally Posted By: mechtech2
I doubt any synthetic could cause a leak in 2 days from seal modification.


I used Supertech 5W30 in my deceased (from a T-bone) '98 Tracker 1.6L a few years ago. The next day I went to work. After returning home from my 50-55 mile total commute, I was greeted with an oil smell. I opened the hood and found oil seeping from every gasket on the engine. Oil was even seeping from the oil sending unit threads. Every dang gasket leaked. I dumped the ST and did a run of Havoline HM. Within a week, all leaks stopped and everything went back to normal. I then resumed the Tracker's diet of dino oil and never had a problem again (until it's demise).

I use syn in some of my vehicles and none leak a drop. Why the Tracker didn't like ST was a mystery. Perhaps it falls along the same lines that an engine will be quieter on one brand of oil over another. There's no logic, it jusy happens.
 
....why would you possibly use straight 30 in that thing. Unless you're pulling a disc or a bush hog, there is no reason to do that, ever.

Drain it, use regular 10w30 Valvoline, or the HM stuff to condition the 40+ year old seals. It'll be fine. Had the same thing happen with a rebuilt 440. Used M1 10w30, leak city. Drained it, put in 10w30 regular old white bottle Valvoline....problem solved.

Keep in mind what these things used to run in 40 years ago....they will run on anything. You could pump crude out of the ground and refine it with a window screen and it would be fine.
 
my dad's accord sprung a small leak after dumping in PP. He thinks it was coming from the distributor area so we changed the gasket on that and switch to PYB as the motor was noticeably louder with PP on cold starts.

PYB seems to have quietened it down and we haven't noticed any leaks.
 
Originally Posted By: bigmike
I'm jumping on the HDEO 15w40 bandwagon. That's what I'd run in it, considering the information given.




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There is no doubt that full synth oils can make leaks worse here and there. It is generally rare, but does happen.

I previously wanted to point out some other first things that are possible.
 
First things first !!! where is the leak. Find it then post. 36 post with out asking the first most important question.
 
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