I no longer use an oil filter.
- Thread starter Mystic
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OK, I left out some details. The WIX number is 57082. What passes for a WIX dealer here, had one. The cheap socket I bought to fit a PF 47 fits the cap too.
Yes my '57 Chevy was a V-8, the renown 283. Black Bel Air 2 door hard top. Yes I would love to have it now. Way out of my price range now. Sold it for $200 in 1966.
Yes my '57 Chevy was a V-8, the renown 283. Black Bel Air 2 door hard top. Yes I would love to have it now. Way out of my price range now. Sold it for $200 in 1966.
Back when I was selling the Frantz oil filters I tossed the stock filter and housing on my Honda road bike. I replaced the thru bolt with a 3/4 16 nipple and installed a Frantz sandwich adapter plate. I bolted a Frantz back by the saddle bag and ran hoses to the sandwich adapter. I installed a Motor Craft FL-1A and did some serious oil filtering. The big filter looked a little strange. A shorter filter would have looked a little neater. Don't remember if I had to adapt the nipple but I remember that the gasket was the same size as a Chevy V-8.
Ralph
Ralph
Don't tempt me. Don't see how it could be done in this case. The filter element sets down in a hole cast into the block. The oil looks like it comes up through a hole at the back and then down through a hole in the center. As I vaguely remember the 50's, I think there was sort of a plate much like the current spin on plates. The cars I have looked at car shows seem to have an adapter and modern spin on filters.
Huh? From what I have heard, a Saturn IS a GM car and this device you are referring to is, in fact, an oil filter.
This filter is used in GM's Ecotec engine. The idea is to put less material in land fills. ECOTEC = ECOLOGY, get it?
Funny thing is...even though this filter is used across a large number of GM makes / models and uses a lot less material than a standard filter, it costs over twice as much as a standard filter. To me, if they can't reduce the cost, I would prefer just to have a standard filter. When you ripple this cost increase against the volume, it is costing a lot of money in the aggregate.
I had a 1960 MGA (from Morris Garages in the UK) that used this approach.
Jegs.com and some others have adapters to convert canister to spin on -- they are for Chevy V8 engines. It is a lot cheaper for the filter makers to make part of a full flow filter and charge for the whole thing. That's what did in the old bypass filter. They were more expensive than the full flow filter because of the oil lines. Some of the filter companies have come up with combination filters that put the bypass filter and the full flow filter in the same housing. It isn't practical because of space limitations. If you want clean oil there is no way to get it without dealing with hoses. You can piddle away a lot of money and time on allowing oil to get dirty then draining it. I bought my first oil cleaning filter back in the early 60's for 29.95. It has saved me thousands of dollars. I don't want to choose high flow rate over clean oil when choosing a filter.
You might find the following interesting:
"EnviroSense
Department of Defense
Pollution Prevention Technical Library
Bypass Filter for Vehicle Motor Oil Introduction:
Gasoline and diesel fueled internal combustion engines require
lubricating oil to reduce friction and dissipate heat. The lubricating oil must be changed once the oil's effectiveness diminishes. Lubricating effectiveness generally does not deteriorate in high-quality oils, but what does occur is contamination of the oil with particles and a breakdown of the
lubricating oil's additive package. The additive package, which can be 50 percent of the oil's volume is responsible for maintaining pH and preventing deterioration of the oil. Bypass filters are designed to remove smaller particulate than would normally be removed by the engine's normal filter so that oil changes are not necessary. Oil added during filter changing, and to replace burned oil, is normally sufficient to replenish the oil's additive package".
Ralph
You might find the following interesting:
"EnviroSense
Department of Defense
Pollution Prevention Technical Library
Bypass Filter for Vehicle Motor Oil Introduction:
Gasoline and diesel fueled internal combustion engines require
lubricating oil to reduce friction and dissipate heat. The lubricating oil must be changed once the oil's effectiveness diminishes. Lubricating effectiveness generally does not deteriorate in high-quality oils, but what does occur is contamination of the oil with particles and a breakdown of the
lubricating oil's additive package. The additive package, which can be 50 percent of the oil's volume is responsible for maintaining pH and preventing deterioration of the oil. Bypass filters are designed to remove smaller particulate than would normally be removed by the engine's normal filter so that oil changes are not necessary. Oil added during filter changing, and to replace burned oil, is normally sufficient to replenish the oil's additive package".
Ralph
My Ecotec cartridge is nothing like that. There has been a new bottom O-ring on each of the elements I have bought. Are you talking about something from the 50's?
The cartridge style is fine so long as it is mounted verticle. It should open from the top. This allows you to prime the filter. The ones that open from the bottom do not allow you to prime the filter system.
They are also a mess. GM does not sell the o-rings with the filter you must buy them seprately. By the time you buy the three o-ring seals the price of the filter change has gone up much past a spin on filter.
I think it is a step bachwords for shadetrees. IT does not do anything to signifacantly extend engine life! It is their to try to persuade you to go to the dealer for your oil change!!!
They are also a mess. GM does not sell the o-rings with the filter you must buy them seprately. By the time you buy the three o-ring seals the price of the filter change has gone up much past a spin on filter.
I think it is a step bachwords for shadetrees. IT does not do anything to signifacantly extend engine life! It is their to try to persuade you to go to the dealer for your oil change!!!
After looking as some more responses about these filters I have to say one more thing. I hate 'um. Too many years of working on motorcycles for me I guess. I got sick of the mess and the fact that you have o'rings to replace and parts to clean with every oil change. They are a huge step backward IMO...
I have changed mine 3 times so far. Have never replaced any o-rings and have never primed. I don't see a problem other than cost. You get a lot less than a cartridge type filter, but pay a lot more for it than a comparable brand / quality cartridge type oil filter.
My new Nissan has the old type element in a die cast aluminium housing.
It's mounted horizontally, and has a few tricks. It's got a spot for a 1/2" drive to unscrew and tighten the canister. It's got a catch tray and pipe so that the spillage is diverted to the receptacle of your choice. You unscrew 4 turns, and align an arrow, which aligens two ports at the lower lip, allowing the filter contents to drain into the catch tray.
Haven't tried it all out as yet.
It's mounted horizontally, and has a few tricks. It's got a spot for a 1/2" drive to unscrew and tighten the canister. It's got a catch tray and pipe so that the spillage is diverted to the receptacle of your choice. You unscrew 4 turns, and align an arrow, which aligens two ports at the lower lip, allowing the filter contents to drain into the catch tray.
Haven't tried it all out as yet.
My Cadillac CTS uses the element type filter with an O ring. The filter is an AC and is made in Germany. It costs about $8 at the dealer. They go on very easy for me.
I have not been able to find another brand or source for the filter. Does anyone know if there are other filters like this out there?
I have not been able to find another brand or source for the filter. Does anyone know if there are other filters like this out there?
If the element is the same ACDelco PF2244G as my Chevy uses, I have collected the following part numbers:quote:
Originally posted by White Fang:
My Cadillac CTS uses the element type filter with an O ring. The filter is an AC and is made in Germany. It costs about $8 at the dealer. They go on very easy for me.
I have not been able to find another brand or source for the filter. Does anyone know if there are other filters like this out there?
Hastings LF548
Purflux L264A
Purolator L 15436
Baldwin P1445
STP S9018R
Fram PH9018
WIX 51365, 57082
MANN HU 69/2
The best I have done on price was $5 at Pep Boys for the Purolator. The WIX 51365 may be for another variation and have a smaller hole in the center. The AC, Hastings, and Fram for a while were all Purflux made in France.
I checked my filter and it is a PF2256G so it is not quite the same. Thanks for your help. I may try a few web sites and see if I can get a cross reference.
Bebop-I also have an 86 legend and I love the cartridge filter. I get to inspect everytime I change oil. Also, i can change it without jacking car-just turn steering wheel to left. I buy filters at pep-boys. At least twice a year they offer all puralator(any #) filters "2for$5". Just had it 2 weeks ago. They also have all Pep-Boys filters(any #) for 1.99 at least twice a year.The filter for the Acura is exactly the same as Pur.
This last sale you also had a $2 rebate w/purchase of 2 filters. Thats $3 for two Pur filters. Ted
This last sale you also had a $2 rebate w/purchase of 2 filters. Thats $3 for two Pur filters. Ted
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