I no longer reccomend QS filters for over 5k miles

[Virtuoso]

Yesterday I removed the second (in a row) Quaker State filter for a failing ADBV. QS14006 model, '99 Malibu 2.4L

I used to say these would make a great budget filter for up to 7-9k but I need to revise my statement. This one started draining oil at about 5k miles and the last did before 6k.

Owners manual OCI for my car is 7,500 miles/6 months; so I'm not trying to go outside of the standard OCI with them.

I guess I'll start using filters with silicon ADBV's on that car. I'll continue to use QS's on the van as it's a pretty short interval.

 

[bullwinkle]

How many months was it on, and how close are high heat sources (exhaust manifold & pipe)? Nitrile ADBVs can't seem to tolerate heat well at all, and it's been a LITTLE hot in the Midwest this summer!

 

[Virtuoso]

Three months tops, each. I do about 30k miles per year. This type of style might actually be harder on ADBV's, because the oil stays hot a long time. (WAG)

No heat sources close; the exhaust manifold is on the other side of the engine.

Haha.. can't deny it's been hotter than heck this year!

 

[Falken]

Darn, Wix back spec'd a filter for my car to one with a nitrile ADBV from one with silicon...

I am going to have to look into changing brands I guess... and I live in the Great White North so it is really important as nitrile gets very hard at our temps...

 

[CarbonSteel]

Originally Posted By: bullwinkle
How many months was it on, and how close are high heat sources (exhaust manifold & pipe)? Nitrile ADBVs can't seem to tolerate heat well at all, and it's been a LITTLE hot in the Midwest this summer!

Would the average Joe not expect a filter manufacturer to consider all ranges of operating temperatures in the design? I mean, not everyone takes things like oil and filters to the levels that we do on BITOG nor would they have the knowledge that is posted here on a daily basis (unless they were looking for it).

Speaking only for myself, this is why (if this is in a way a design or quality problem) I only use the higher quality brands like MC, Purolator, Bosch, etc.

 

[vssjim]

The new 57356 Wix filters we are using at work are now being shipped with silicone valve, when we first went from 51356's to 57356's they had nitrlie valves but they have changed to silicone in the last month or so. I'm sure yuor supplier will have the new ones soon.

 

[Falken]

Great news vssjim! I deal with Canton so I'll have to open the box first to be sure it is the new shipment.

I'll be sure to pick up a case of 12 soon, down to 1 last filter...

 

[bullwinkle]

Originally Posted By: 2010_FX4
Originally Posted By: bullwinkle
How many months was it on, and how close are high heat sources (exhaust manifold & pipe)? Nitrile ADBVs can't seem to tolerate heat well at all, and it's been a LITTLE hot in the Midwest this summer!

Would the average Joe not expect a filter manufacturer to consider all ranges of operating temperatures in the design? I mean, not everyone takes things like oil and filters to the levels that we do on BITOG nor would they have the knowledge that is posted here on a daily basis (unless they were looking for it).

Speaking only for myself, this is why (if this is in a way a design or quality problem) I only use the higher quality brands like MC, Purolator, Bosch, etc.
You would think they would, but the QS is probably the cheapest filter that Purolator/Bosch makes, and they have to save a little $ somewhere for Menard's to sell it for $1.99 on sale. I only use the QS filters on vehicles that either have the bypass in the block (GM) or relatives' cars that have the filter mounted vertically close to the bottom of the engine, and then for only 5K max.

 

[Garak]

Originally Posted By: Falken
Great news vssjim! I deal with Canton so I'll have to open the box first to be sure it is the new shipment.


I had heard something similar in another thread. So, basically, Wix updated the specification before they updated the filter.

 

[KevGuy]

All of the bashing that has been done on the FRAM orange can should be redirected towards the QS oil filters. The FRAM orange can is an ok filter provided you change your oil and filter on a regular basis.

 

[zerosoma]

Originally Posted By: KevGuy
All of the bashing that has been done on the FRAM orange can should be redirected towards the QS oil filters. The FRAM orange can is an ok filter provided you change your oil and filter on a regular basis.


Every filter has their good and bad points. I'd take a QS way before I'd take an OCOD. I know the ADBV is not the best but it's still made by Purolator which is a company I trust.

 

[steve20]

Originally Posted By: zerosoma
Originally Posted By: KevGuy
All of the bashing that has been done on the FRAM orange can should be redirected towards the QS oil filters. The FRAM orange can is an ok filter provided you change your oil and filter on a regular basis.


Every filter has their good and bad points. I'd take a QS way before I'd take an OCOD. I know the ADBV is not the best but it's still made by Purolator which is a company I trust.

Well.......I guess somebody's got to buy them!

 

[Kruse]

Originally Posted By: KevGuy
All of the bashing that has been done on the FRAM orange can should be redirected towards the QS oil filters. The FRAM orange can is an ok filter provided you change your oil and filter on a regular basis.


The QS bashing probably won't happen. See, with a Quaker State available at Menards for the on-sale price of $2, you know you are getting an entry level filter. With the OCOD, you pay a premium price and you get the entry level surprise when you cut the thing open for analysis.

 

[bullwinkle]

Originally Posted By: Kruse
Originally Posted By: KevGuy
All of the bashing that has been done on the FRAM orange can should be redirected towards the QS oil filters. The FRAM orange can is an ok filter provided you change your oil and filter on a regular basis.


The QS bashing probably won't happen. See, with a Quaker State available at Menards for the on-sale price of $2, you know you are getting an entry level filter. With the OCOD, you pay a premium price and you get the entry level surprise when you cut the thing open for analysis.
I don't consider the QS "entry level"-now the STP, WM TLE, Valucraft E-cores, and Driveworks-that's true entry level! And by entry level, I mean the chance of torn media entering your engine entry level!

 

[HerrStig]

Fram makes some good filters, the OCOD just isn't one of them.

 

[Sayjac]

Quote:
All of the bashing that has been done on the FRAM orange can should be redirected towards the QS oil filters. The FRAM orange can is an ok filter provided you change your oil and filter on a regular basis.

Where can I semi regularly obtain an orange can for QS sale price of $1.99? Why should we bash the QS, because the OP discovered that a nitrile adbv isn't durable/functional much past 5K? And frankly, if one isn't getting any noticeable start up rattle, that may not be an issue at all. IMO, most nitrile adbv would be standard rated at ~5k/6month oci, including an orange can.

As for the entry level listing of certain filters, the inside of the DriveWorks filter looks to be on of the best constructed low end filters I've seen. That said, I've never used/purchased one, but if it was included in an oil/filter promo, I'd use it. Biggest DW question mark, there's no efficiency information provided.

 

[Virtuoso]

I've had Fram ADBV's fail too; but I've never pushed a Fram filter as far as I have the Quaker States. Back when I used Fram as my filter-of-choice, I did 3k OCI's. So I never stressed a filter.

Now-a-day's I run a much longer interval, and am now finding I can't cheap out on the filter's I use for our longer OCI's. I'd still use a QS before a Fram. But that's just personal preference.

 

[em27blacktop]

Originally Posted By: sayjac
Quote:
All of the bashing that has been done on the FRAM orange can should be redirected towards the QS oil filters. The FRAM orange can is an ok filter provided you change your oil and filter on a regular basis.

Where can I semi regularly obtain an orange can for QS sale price of $1.99? Why should we bash the QS, because the OP discovered that a nitrile adbv isn't durable/functional much past 5K? And frankly, if one isn't getting any noticeable start up rattle, that may not be an issue at all. IMO, most nitrile adbv would be standard rated at ~5k/6month oci, including an orange can.

As for the entry level listing of certain filters, the inside of the DriveWorks filter looks to be on of the best constructed low end filters I've seen. That said, I've never used/purchased one, but if it was included in an oil/filter promo, I'd use it. Biggest DW question mark, there's no efficiency information provided.


How do we get the efficiency ratings? Somebody has to be able to get some info from Driveworks..
Is there some way to test one or send it somewhere to be tested?

 

[Sayjac]

Originally Posted By: em27blacktop
How do we get the efficiency ratings? Somebody has to be able to get some info from Driveworks..
Is there some way to test one or send it somewhere to be tested?

A member, ZeeOSix checked into having filter efficiency tested and it's not cheap. I think it's something like ~$1500 a filter, at some SouthWest Technical or something like that. Perhaps he'll chime here at some point or you can pm him. IIRC though, it's fairly close to the figure I quoted.

 

[tstep]

Some of the DW filters have ratings and some do not. This one has a 75% @ 20u rating. I've seen others in the high 80s.

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/...ency#fragment-2

Driveworks Oil Filter
Part No. DW-L30257
Case Diameter: 3.66 in
Efficiency: 75.2% Based On 20u mc
Filter Bypass Relief Valve: Yes
Filter Type/Category: Oil
Gasket Inside Diameter: 62.2 mm
Gasket Outside Diameter: 70.5 mm
Gasket Thickness: 5.2 mm
Height: 5.14 in
Housing Color: WHITE
Maximum Burst Pressure: 20
Media Type: Oil
Micron Rating: 55
Oil Filter Type: Spin On
Recommended Change Interval: 5000 mi
Relief Valve Opening Pressure: 100
Smallest Particle Filtered: Spin On: Yes
Thread Size: 3/4"-16"