i mixed 7 oils together
- Thread starter Bulli
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Hmmmm, pretty sure I checked and blade it tight. Problem is it takes about 15 primes to get it to start, then it will cycle rpm and try to die a few times as I keep plunging the prime every time it wants to die. Once running it's fine. But if thick oil makes it harder to start, maybe I need 20 weight instead of 50 or 60.
Wow! I just changed my oil and was in almost the same boat as you. I used:
5 qt Castrol GTX 5w-30
1 qt Castrol Syntec 5w-30
1 qt Castrol Syntec 10w-40
My truck runs smooth as silk. I am getting to the bottom of my SYNTEC supply. I will be shopping this weekend.
5 qt Castrol GTX 5w-30
1 qt Castrol Syntec 5w-30
1 qt Castrol Syntec 10w-40
My truck runs smooth as silk. I am getting to the bottom of my SYNTEC supply. I will be shopping this weekend.
6W-31.4
10 min to wopner
10 min to wopner
I'm thinking you should leave the MMO out of there since all the other oils are are on the thin side already; plus, the STP is thick and MMO would be counteractive to that.
well i put it in the car today with a Prime guard oil filter, cheapest i could find.
Um the old oil filter, fram tough guard was a real big pain to take off. i think it took me 1 hours of different strategies.
Engine is a little louder, especially when driving.
I don't know why but switching gears from 1-2 seems to jerk the car more then it did before (stickshift.
So far i didnt notice anything bad about this other then my car seems a little faster and less sluggish.
By the look of things i might be keeping the oil for 1000 miles.
Um the old oil filter, fram tough guard was a real big pain to take off. i think it took me 1 hours of different strategies.
Engine is a little louder, especially when driving.
I don't know why but switching gears from 1-2 seems to jerk the car more then it did before (stickshift.
So far i didnt notice anything bad about this other then my car seems a little faster and less sluggish.
By the look of things i might be keeping the oil for 1000 miles.
To the OP: The only thing missing from your oil/additive cocktail is a thimble full of good rum!
I ain't sure that this is even a real post.
Engine has a knock?
Mixing all that stuff?
Bibles? What in heck is he talking about?
Cheap oil filter?
Looks to me like he is waving all the red flags infront of the bull. Much the same way as Bob The Builder.
Putting all that stuff in an engine that is already "knocking" and then he is asking if it will kill the engine. Sounds to me as if the engine is already dead, he just ain't burried it yet.
Engine has a knock?
Mixing all that stuff?
Bibles? What in heck is he talking about?
Cheap oil filter?
Looks to me like he is waving all the red flags infront of the bull. Much the same way as Bob The Builder.
Putting all that stuff in an engine that is already "knocking" and then he is asking if it will kill the engine. Sounds to me as if the engine is already dead, he just ain't burried it yet.
i adjusted the valves yesterday
Took some pix of engine./
Today i did seafoam by vacume hose and some in the engine and gas tank.
After that i switched it to this 7 oil mix that i had planned for a while. Will let it rinse out w.e is in there still. There were carbon deposits in the oil from doing the seafoam.
After that 10-30 castrol gtx with a supertech oil filter.
Engine runs fine on this 7 mix , so far so good. I adjusted the valves and the tapping is Gone but now i can hear the knock clearer. I dont know what it is but I doubt it is rod knock like i thought it was before.
When i start the car it idles at about 1900 rpms and for about 15-30 seconds there is no knock. After that it starts to kncok, loud tap.
The exhaust valves are all noise and contribute to this noise but i doubt this is that knock i keep hearing since i bought the car 7 months ago.
i still have to get a compression tester and get it tested to see if i got good compression across the board.
In conclusion: Mistake buying this car but i am working on it alot and keeping myself busy and learning alot along the way.
Took some pix of engine./
Today i did seafoam by vacume hose and some in the engine and gas tank.
After that i switched it to this 7 oil mix that i had planned for a while. Will let it rinse out w.e is in there still. There were carbon deposits in the oil from doing the seafoam.
After that 10-30 castrol gtx with a supertech oil filter.
Engine runs fine on this 7 mix , so far so good. I adjusted the valves and the tapping is Gone but now i can hear the knock clearer. I dont know what it is but I doubt it is rod knock like i thought it was before.
When i start the car it idles at about 1900 rpms and for about 15-30 seconds there is no knock. After that it starts to kncok, loud tap.
The exhaust valves are all noise and contribute to this noise but i doubt this is that knock i keep hearing since i bought the car 7 months ago.
i still have to get a compression tester and get it tested to see if i got good compression across the board.
In conclusion: Mistake buying this car but i am working on it alot and keeping myself busy and learning alot along the way.
woops for got pix.
I noticed this was loose but maybe it is soppose to be.
http://s65.photobucket.com/albums/h220/przeziom/?action=view¤t=MOV03360.flv
I noticed this was loose but maybe it is soppose to be.
http://s65.photobucket.com/albums/h220/przeziom/?action=view¤t=MOV03360.flv
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I didn't know hondas had manually adjusted valves. I thought only motorcycles had those and cars were all hydraulically adjusted. Yet I see the adjuster nut and screw. Do you need regular valve adjustments?
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Originally Posted By: qwertydude
I didn't know hondas had manually adjusted valves. I thought only motorcycles had those and cars were all hydraulically adjusted. Yet I see the adjuster nut and screw. Do you need regular valve adjustments?
Yeah, it's basically a shoe-style follower for the rocker directly on the camshaft lobe; no roller. Pretty primitive design, but surprisingly reliable.
I didn't know hondas had manually adjusted valves. I thought only motorcycles had those and cars were all hydraulically adjusted. Yet I see the adjuster nut and screw. Do you need regular valve adjustments?
Yeah, it's basically a shoe-style follower for the rocker directly on the camshaft lobe; no roller. Pretty primitive design, but surprisingly reliable.
i think my dads 07civic has manually adjusting valves also.
I adjusted the valves about 5k miles ago but it was my first time doing it and they were loud again.
So this time it took me about 3-4 hours, i double cheked, its still impossible to get each valve spaced equally as the others but whatever.
I wish i could open the valve cover again to see if seafoam helped remove some of the varnish.
I adjusted the valves about 5k miles ago but it was my first time doing it and they were loud again.
So this time it took me about 3-4 hours, i double cheked, its still impossible to get each valve spaced equally as the others but whatever.
I wish i could open the valve cover again to see if seafoam helped remove some of the varnish.
Leave it in as long as you normal leave your oil in their! It not like this is going to make the engine self destruct or anything! The 1 quart of MMO might burn off if this thing burns any oil. If it does not burn oil then the MMO will not be an issue at all. I have added MMO to cars before and their oil level stayed the same for the whole oil change interval! I thought the MMO would have burnt off but it did not.
I had a Geo Metro that almost always got left overs. I would save all the partial quarts of oil from the all the other family vechile wich at the time was around 5-7 vechiles depends if I count lawn equipment. It never had a problem! Personely I am not a fan of thick sticky additives like STP but with the MMO in their it should be ok. STP is almost all viscosity improvers not oil with a boat load of Zink. So do not worry just sit back and enjoy driveing your car!
Oh if you need a cheap oil though and can not get good rebates try Tropartic it sells for $1.68 a quart. If you need something thicker try Rotella 15W40 it is a good oil and is priced nicely as well!
I had a Geo Metro that almost always got left overs. I would save all the partial quarts of oil from the all the other family vechile wich at the time was around 5-7 vechiles depends if I count lawn equipment. It never had a problem! Personely I am not a fan of thick sticky additives like STP but with the MMO in their it should be ok. STP is almost all viscosity improvers not oil with a boat load of Zink. So do not worry just sit back and enjoy driveing your car!
Oh if you need a cheap oil though and can not get good rebates try Tropartic it sells for $1.68 a quart. If you need something thicker try Rotella 15W40 it is a good oil and is priced nicely as well!
The noise is probably piston slapp if it is not a raod bearing gone bad! High milage Honda I4's are none for piston slap. Does the nosie go away after 15-30 minutes of driveing? If so it is piston slap. If the knock does not go away it is either a rod bearing or the thrust washer/bearing.
never buy any car with any knocking noise comeing from the engine! You could get another 100,000 miles out of it or it might blow up in 100 miles!
never buy any car with any knocking noise comeing from the engine! You could get another 100,000 miles out of it or it might blow up in 100 miles!
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Originally Posted By: Bulli
its still impossible to get each valve spaced equally as the others but whatever.
Huh? You are using a feeler gauge and adjusting the valve clearance to the intake and exhaust specs, right? It should be more than possible to get them all the same. It should be procedure.
I like solid lifters. Less pesky places for used oil to hide and easier to start. All of my solid lifter cars started no matter how fast I snap the starter.
its still impossible to get each valve spaced equally as the others but whatever.
Huh? You are using a feeler gauge and adjusting the valve clearance to the intake and exhaust specs, right? It should be more than possible to get them all the same. It should be procedure.
I like solid lifters. Less pesky places for used oil to hide and easier to start. All of my solid lifter cars started no matter how fast I snap the starter.
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