I hope Royal Purple is worth it...

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I have already elaberated in several threads in this section. I do hate chewing my words more then about three time but here goes and I will condense it.

COld and Hot shift perforamnce in about 20 COrvettes, more MR2's then I care to count, about 20 Toyota Pick-up's, One 2003 Camry and one 2001 Dodge Dakota Quad Cab 4X4 have lead me to the following conclusions:

RP Lose's it's cold shift performance in manual transmissions in about 10K miles and it warm shift performance starts to get flaky no latter then 15-20K miles.

Amsoil Cold Shift Performance does not even start out as good as RP's but it does last longer before it is degraded to the point that I am swearing!

Redline MTL/MT90 hold their cold shift performance as long as I would care to keep any fluid in a manual trans! Their warm shift performance has never been affected. Also their gear lubes have always done great in any diff I have put them in. So when it comes to manual transmissions I will not use anything else then Redline and no I am not brand loyal since I buy cheap OTC synthetic at Walmart just gear lubes am I loyal about and it is due to performance not marketing.

In P/S and in Automatics I have never noticed a difference in Amsoil.Redline or Mobil 1 ATF oils I like them all. In fact I used Amsoil in my Dodge for the P/S and the T/Case because I ran out of Redline C+ which I was useing in place of ATF+4 back in 2001 when no one but the dealership had ATF+4 and they wanted $16 a quart and only sold it by the gallon.Back then I was getting Redline ATF+4 for $6.95 a quart from a past site sponsor. I think it was something like My little oil shop or something like that they where a Redline sponsor a long time ago. They pulled their sponsor ship because back then their was a lot of Redline hate on this site!

Oh I also do not like Swebco,Cen-Peco or Schaffer's in manual transmissions their gear oils are all good though for diff's!

As too gear lube I should probably say that I have more years useing M1 Gear LUbe then anything else because in Europe and int he USA for a long time it was hard to find 70W90 and that is what a lot of Toyota's called for. M1 use to make it and sell it widely at retail store's in Germany and in the USA. No one has ever accused M1 gear oil of being the best but I never had any issues with it in diff's,t/case's and even in manual transmissions until Redline came out. So it is the fluid I compare all other's too since I know it very well so for the ones I do not like to be worse then M1 gear oil is saying a lot because MTL's should easily out perform gear oil and I would also imagine that technology for the additives would ahve improved since the early 1990's when I stoped useing M1 gear lube.
 
Eric Smith: Yep, pouring oil is a super-accurate and credible way to test the viscosity, alright! Gives a guy all the evidence he needs to say an oil is no good!

Not hardly!

C'mon, it's a synthetic! It's going to pour more easily at room temp (likely near the 40C test spec) than a mineral oil (especially if it's one that has an 80W or 85W winter grade). You can test it yourself if you have some new RP (or another syn) and some new mineral oil. Anyway, send the oil out for a used oil analysis and maybe then you'll have a valid reason to call the oil no good. At least you'll have used a valid, scientific method of testing.

Also, turning dark could have many causes, from the detergents in the oil having cleaned out the grunge from the previous oil, to the oil having been cooked by high temperatures.
 
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I should add that in all the Toyota applications regardles of what fluid I used or how the shift performance went all of the above gave the protection the transmission needed no debris on the magnet at all. I changed it out at 10,000 and so far nothing on the magnet at 80,000.I tried RP first then Amsoil then Redline in my Camry. All of the fluids came out smelling and looking just as good as new. The RP was in the least amount of time because after the witer was over I got it out due to poor shifting in the cold. Amsoil was in longer and Redline has been in the longest. I should say that niether RP or AMsoil performed as good as the stock 75W90GL4/GL5 fluid that was in it in terms of shift performance.

I also have never had a vechile that was not being raced or was not towing more then the OEM tow limit that has ever turned gear lube dark. When I used dino I used to drain and refil every 12 months or 24K miles and for synthetic I use 30K and not time limit as my general rule! I always get all fluids from ATF-Gear LUbe out by 10K which is more then enough time for the gears to finish breaking in!

When I tried RP and Amsoil prices where low enough that it was not a huge factor the big thing for me was that they where in stock at Carquest as was Motul but I had to order Redline and I wanted to do the job now not next week!

I am sure your RP will do just fine just change it out at 30K and maybe try Redline or Amsoil or even M1 next time.It is not going to hurt anything it is just over priced for what you get!
 
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Originally Posted By: Jim Allen
Eric Smith: Yep, pouring oil is a super-accurate and credible way to test the viscosity, alright! Gives a guy all the evidence he needs to say an oil is no good!

Not hardly!

C'mon, it's a synthetic! It's going to pour more easily at room temp (likely near the 40C test spec) than a mineral oil (especially if it's one that has an 80W or 85W winter grade). You can test it yourself if you have some new RP (or another syn) and some new mineral oil. Anyway, send the oil out for a used oil analysis and maybe then you'll have a valid reason to call the oil no good. At least you'll have used a valid, scientific method of testing.

Also, turning dark could have many causes, from the detergents in the oil having cleaned out the grunge from the previous oil, to the oil having been cooked by high temperatures.


So basically your saying even though I still had some fresh left over and compare the two even though the used is runs likes water it's still as good as the fresh... right and I've seen pigs fly. I'm not one to jump to conclusion attacking me won't do any good.
 
Originally Posted By: Jim Allen
Eric Smith: That wasn't an attack. I was challenging your conclusion. Big difference.


Nope "challenging" my conclusion would of been worded at bit differently. Try again.
 
Originally Posted By: JohnBrowning
I have already elaberated in several threads in this section. I do hate chewing my words more then about three time but here goes and I will condense it.

Thanks for the reply John. I figured your conclusions were based off personal experience and quite a bit too from all the vehicles listed. I would stick w/ redline MTL if I had the same experience as you too, and I guess that's the next thing to try in my manual transmission.
 
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Originally Posted By: tomcat27
part of the pricing problem is the price that RP gives stores. they dont leave them enuf margin to charge normal price for it. same with amsoil.

Amsoil is way cheaper than RP. RP is the only synthetic I can find locally, besides M1, and when I saw $17.99 I just laughed. Even if I order Amsoil online and pay shipping it's cheaper. Unfortunately a local sports/auto chain that used to sell Amsoil locally shut down this spring, I could get just about anything Amsoil for less than $12/quart.

I'm not going to bother with the "which is better" arguement anymore, I think they're all "more than good enough".
 
The only reason my mom's car has RP 75w140 in it is because a speed shop had an enormous sale, and I only paid about $9 per quart of RP 75w140. That is the cheapest I ever saw synthetic 75w140.
 
I haven't seen that in the store before. If I can find it, I will try it next time. In the meantime, Ultra Black seems to be working fine with my application. Hopefully it stays that way.
 
I started usig M1 G 75-90 way back when they first started making it. In diffs no matter what the miles the oil came out clear. I shot for 75,000 mile OCs and never had a problem. My sons Ranger has 335,000 miles on it as well and has only been changed twice.
 
OMG...I heard the words Royal Purple...
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Now I have to poke my eardrums out....
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Originally Posted By: OVERK1LL
I'd try to find some Delvac gear oil........


I just bought a 20l pail...paid about $150.00 for it.
 
Originally Posted By: D-Roc
Originally Posted By: OVERK1LL
I'd try to find some Delvac gear oil........


I just bought a 20l pail...paid about $150.00 for it.


Excellent!
 
Originally Posted By: OVERK1LL
Originally Posted By: D-Roc
Originally Posted By: OVERK1LL
I'd try to find some Delvac gear oil........


I just bought a 20l pail...paid about $150.00 for it.


Excellent!


Definitely was....
But I also just bought some Mobil 1 synthetic ATF and it was not as well priced...10 bucks a quart for that stuff. But it worked well for me.
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