Rislone Head Gasket Repair (Stop Leak) experience

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Sep 25, 2025
Messages
5
Hello, I understand this has been talked about to death but I would just like to share my recent experience with this stop leak product.

I worked on a 2011 Subaru Outback. It had been to the garage several times for overheating and low coolant. They performed pressure tests and found nothing, changed a couple suspect parts: radiator cap and thermostat. Everything seemed fine, until a few months later, the engine overheated and bubbled coolant out of the reservoir. After refilling the car drove for another several months before reproducing the problem, with no visible leaks along the way.

I think the engine overheated due to low coolant caused by a seeping head gasket. I read that this was a common problem on older subarus as they had faulty head gasket, to the point where subaru was recommending "coolant conditioner" with every coolant fill procedure to save their asses. My research online pointed to this conditioner being a rebadged stop leak. I decided to try a stop leak product because the owner was not willing to put thousands into a head gasket job plus nothing was confirmed for sure.

For the next coolant refill, I added 100ml of Rislone Head Gasket Repair, the subaru dealerships do not stock the conditioner in my area any longer.
link: https://rislone.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/07/21110-PDS.pdf

I thought this product might be a good replacement, and also used an amount far below what was recommended on the container itself (1/6 of the recommended dose).

Car was running fine, and I was checking the coolant level every few days and it was stable. HOWEVER! I started to notice that the upper rad hose was always collapsed when I went to look at the coolant level in the morning. Opening the rad cap, I could actually see that the stop leak was plugging the passage to the overflow reservoir (there's a small hole in the radiator neck that relieves pressurized coolant into the reservoir), and causing a vacuum in the system as it cooled. So it is a huge problem using this kind of product with an overflow reservoir type system. Maybe on closed coolant systems like some Fords this would not happen. But the product states it does not plug any coolant system components and is compatible with all makes and models... this is simply false marketing. And no, I did not add the product to the reservoir, but into the radiator as per the instructions, into an already filled/purged system.

Anyway, I flushed the coolant as best I could in my driveway, doing 3 radiator empties and refills until I felt it was good to go. It's now 2 weeks later and the upper rad hose has burst, and I checked the rad cap and what do ya know? The overflow is plugged again. So it overpressurized and thankfully the upper rad hose failed first. I'll be doing another few flushes and will have to monitor the coolant continuously from now.

Hope this helps someone who's thinking they can save some time with this kind of product. To be fair I do believe it stopped whatever was causing the leak, since the system holds both pressure and vacuum with the reservoir blocked off :LOL:
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Sorry the Rislone didn't work :(

I can vouch for Bars Leaks HG-1 in a DOHC EJ25D, and nothing bad happened :)

People have also had success with Blue Devil Pour-N-Go.

Even if you still end up needing a head gasket, the SOHC is MUCH easier to work on than teh DOHC, and you might even be able to do the gaskets without dropping the engine. If you do, consider the Fel-Pro head gaskets, which are supposed to fix the problem for good.

You can find the Subaru Coolant Conditioner on Amazon.
 
Forget it. Just change the head gaskets. Stop leaks plug up radiator and ruin coolant hoses. Who knows what there doing to water pump and cylinder heads, and heater core. I've been there. Had a leaky GM 3.8 head gasket. Cast iron block with aluminum heads. Not a smart combo. Heat up at different temps. Tried a few stop leaks, they worked, but blew all the hoses and plugged up the radiator too. Took me forever to flush all that stuff out. Drove the car to a shop on tap water. Bit the bullet. 2 new head gaskets. No problems after that.
 
I'd say putting it in the radiator was the problem.
If you are trying to seal an Head gasket leak in the block, the sealant should go into the block.
Where is the direct inlet to the block? Typically, the LOWER RAD HOSE, via the water pump.
Of course this may vary depending on engine design.
 
OP here, thanks for the recommendations. I went ahead and started the head gasket job...

I checked everything I could, just by blowing with my mouth for now to see if anything is plugged. Both the rad and heater cores seem to be unrestricted, easily can blow air through. I did find a rusty water pipe but its not leaking yet. There is some evidence of coolant leaking from the main water pipe on top of the engine via the 2 o-ring type gaskets it has (see pictures)
IMG_20250929_172449.webp

IMG_20250929_172432.webp

Also, the head gaskets that are on the car already look like MLS type (see pictures) but dont show any obvious signs of leaking underneath. Removed thermostat and water pump and they both look normal, no leaking or clogging. In fact theres no crap inside any of the parts im removing so thats a good sign as far as the stop leak having plugged up the system.
IMG_20250929_172703.webp

The radiator also looks ok, its not new but its not caked up and the fans were working as they should.

Will post what the heads look like unless something disastrous happens in the process...
 
Here is what the heads and block look like I gave everything a quick wipedown. Im fairly confident the drivers side gasket is blown but im not an expert. Here are some pictures and maybe someone who knows what to look for can confirm if they are blown or not:

Passenger side:

Head gasket
IMG_20250930_150525.webp


Head assembly:
IMG_20250930_150307_edit_206677472078356.webp


Block:
IMG_20250930_150905.webp

IMG_20250930_150910.webp



DRIVERS SIDE

Head gasket:
IMG_20250930_150536_edit_206040620516995.webp


Head assembly:
IMG_20250930_150513_edit_206702739218977.webp


Block:
IMG_20250930_150942.webp
IMG_20250930_150737.webp



So where I suspect it was obviously leaking is on the drivers side, looks like there is some dried up coolant/oil mix inside the middle return passage. Here is a zoomed in pucture of it:
IMG_20250930_150953.webp


Maybe ill have to post this in another sectionbut hoping someone will know right away

Thanks in advance
 
I am only guessing but a if it is a 4 cyl non XT it probably has a EJ253 in it. This is good news, this is one of the easiest engines to remove there is and very easy to do HG on. I can get one out from opening the hood in 2hrs.
Forget the sealers, they only cause more trouble down the road.
I don't have the equipment to pull the engine unfortunately. But I have been studying some videos of ppl doing it in car, and was successful in pulling the heads. If you have a chance, please take a look at the pictures I posted further down in the thread, I imagine the head gaskets are blown but don't know for sure. There's no way I could do it in 2hrs lol, it's taken me a couple days to get where I'm at, using hand tools.

Also I will deck the heads using a giant piece of glass I always knew would come in handy, can't afford a machinist to deck the heads. Not sure there's a point to decking the heads without decking the block as well but I could be wrong.
 
I used BlueDevil Head Gasket Sealer on a 2010 F150 and to my surprise it actually worked. I was skeptical, but my neighbor had previous experience and talked me into it. I got rid of the truck 3 years later and it was still running strong.
This is what I used - https://a.co/d/biW713E
A YouTube guy used it on his parents Jaguar xj12 for a few years. Blue Devil is supposedly picky about prep and use from my looking at the bottle.
 
OP here, just got finished putting the car back together and started. Im happy to say the work I did seems to be holding, no leaks and engine is apparently running normally, although having issues with burping the coolant system as always seems to be the case with this car. The heater core has a tendency to air lock and completely disrupt the flow of coolant throughout. Any mention of this on subaru forums just gets you gaslit as to why you cant do a simple job. After removing the heater core lines with my funnel attached and filled at the radiator seemed to push air up and out of the lines enough to prime the pump. This is just a ****ty design in my opinion, and the whole time working on this car I have the feeling that its a professional waste of time at every step. Ive never had so many issues on dozens of other makes and models that ive worked on.

Time will now tell if it will overheat again and if there is some other issue like a poorly performing radiator. Personally I will never buy a subaru product for myself in the future, it has been an ordeal.
 
Hello, I understand this has been talked about to death but I would just like to share my recent experience with this stop leak product.

I worked on a 2011 Subaru Outback. It had been to the garage several times for overheating and low coolant. They performed pressure tests and found nothing, changed a couple suspect parts: radiator cap and thermostat. Everything seemed fine, until a few months later, the engine overheated and bubbled coolant out of the reservoir. After refilling the car drove for another several months before reproducing the problem, with no visible leaks along the way.

I think the engine overheated due to low coolant caused by a seeping head gasket. I read that this was a common problem on older subarus as they had faulty head gasket, to the point where subaru was recommending "coolant conditioner" with every coolant fill procedure to save their asses. My research online pointed to this conditioner being a rebadged stop leak. I decided to try a stop leak product because the owner was not willing to put thousands into a head gasket job plus nothing was confirmed for sure.

For the next coolant refill, I added 100ml of Rislone Head Gasket Repair, the subaru dealerships do not stock the conditioner in my area any longer.
link: https://rislone.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/07/21110-PDS.pdf

I thought this product might be a good replacement, and also used an amount far below what was recommended on the container itself (1/6 of the recommended dose).

Car was running fine, and I was checking the coolant level every few days and it was stable. HOWEVER! I started to notice that the upper rad hose was always collapsed when I went to look at the coolant level in the morning. Opening the rad cap, I could actually see that the stop leak was plugging the passage to the overflow reservoir (there's a small hole in the radiator neck that relieves pressurized coolant into the reservoir), and causing a vacuum in the system as it cooled. So it is a huge problem using this kind of product with an overflow reservoir type system. Maybe on closed coolant systems like some Fords this would not happen. But the product states it does not plug any coolant system components and is compatible with all makes and models... this is simply false marketing. And no, I did not add the product to the reservoir, but into the radiator as per the instructions, into an already filled/purged system.

Anyway, I flushed the coolant as best I could in my driveway, doing 3 radiator empties and refills until I felt it was good to go. It's now 2 weeks later and the upper rad hose has burst, and I checked the rad cap and what do ya know? The overflow is plugged again. So it overpressurized and thankfully the upper rad hose failed first. I'll be doing another few flushes and will have to monitor the coolant continuously from now.

Hope this helps someone who's thinking they can save some time with this kind of product. To be fair I do believe it stopped whatever was causing the leak, since the system holds both pressure and vacuum with the reservoir blocked off :LOL:
I'm late now, but here is a stop leak product that actually worked for me years ago. The pick-up truck had a cracked block from not being properly winterized. This product is known to not plug heater cores and the like. It is hard to find, but still made and still out there I think. https://www.conklin.com/dike
 
I think I once read that Subaru 'coolant conditioner' (by Holt's if I'm not mistaken) is basically 'Barsleak's'. I also once read (probably back in the 90's) that many car makers (maybe just domestics) added Barsleak's at the factory. At any rate I have often added a little Barsleak's to vehicles without ever causing an issue. I think the key is to add 'a little'....I can see that putting a whole bottle into your radiator could cause problems but a few ounces has never hurt my vehicles.
 
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