I have an electrical gremlin
- Thread starter grampi
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Originally Posted By: grampi
The amp is not faulty and does not turn on unless the head unit is turned on. Therfore, I don't see how the amp can draw any current if it is not turned on.
The only way you can prove that the amp is not faulty is to check it with an ammeter in the 12V unswitched feed to the amp.
If I were a mechanic and you brought this car to my shop, that is one of the diagnostic tests I would perform.
The amp is not faulty and does not turn on unless the head unit is turned on. Therfore, I don't see how the amp can draw any current if it is not turned on.
The only way you can prove that the amp is not faulty is to check it with an ammeter in the 12V unswitched feed to the amp.
If I were a mechanic and you brought this car to my shop, that is one of the diagnostic tests I would perform.
Square one:
Clean the battery cables [both]. And also clean the OTHER ends shiny bright.
Any other grounds get down to shiny metal, and where they seat.
This HAS to be right for all sorts of reasons. So get it first and go from there.
Clean the battery cables [both]. And also clean the OTHER ends shiny bright.
Any other grounds get down to shiny metal, and where they seat.
This HAS to be right for all sorts of reasons. So get it first and go from there.
Originally Posted By: brianl703
Originally Posted By: grampi
The amp is not faulty and does not turn on unless the head unit is turned on. Therfore, I don't see how the amp can draw any current if it is not turned on.
The only way you can prove that the amp is not faulty is to check it with an ammeter in the 12V unswitched feed to the amp.
If I were a mechanic and you brought this car to my shop, that is one of the diagnostic tests I would perform.
I have absolutely zero reason to suspect a problem with my amp. What I believe I do have a problem with is the car's electrical system. It's obvious the problem is either poor grounds/connections, a bad battery, a bad alternator, of a combination of all these things. When the weather permits (if it ever does), I will start by disconnecting all of my battery connections on both ends of all cables to make sure they are good. Once those are clean and if I'm still having the problem, I'll have the battery and the alternator checked. I believe this will either solve my problem, or at least get me pointed in the right direction.
Originally Posted By: grampi
The amp is not faulty and does not turn on unless the head unit is turned on. Therfore, I don't see how the amp can draw any current if it is not turned on.
The only way you can prove that the amp is not faulty is to check it with an ammeter in the 12V unswitched feed to the amp.
If I were a mechanic and you brought this car to my shop, that is one of the diagnostic tests I would perform.
I have absolutely zero reason to suspect a problem with my amp. What I believe I do have a problem with is the car's electrical system. It's obvious the problem is either poor grounds/connections, a bad battery, a bad alternator, of a combination of all these things. When the weather permits (if it ever does), I will start by disconnecting all of my battery connections on both ends of all cables to make sure they are good. Once those are clean and if I'm still having the problem, I'll have the battery and the alternator checked. I believe this will either solve my problem, or at least get me pointed in the right direction.
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Grampi,
Here is a story. I bought a loaded SHO in 1990. My wife was the primary driver. It had random electrical problem and battery used to die. After 3rd such occurrence, I had enough and told the dealer that he better fix it or I am starting the lemon law proceeding. He gave us a loaner and had the car in for a week. A Ford engineer flew in from Detroit. At the end of the week a sharp mechanic noticed something warm in the trunk. It was the JBL amplifier which was NOT shutting off draining the battery. They put new amplifier and that fixed that particular problem.
Unfortunately, as a part of trying to find this problem, dealer cut lots of wires from harness and I had lingering problems until an indi mechanic fixed couple of bad splices.
An amplifier *can* go bad.
- Vikas
Here is a story. I bought a loaded SHO in 1990. My wife was the primary driver. It had random electrical problem and battery used to die. After 3rd such occurrence, I had enough and told the dealer that he better fix it or I am starting the lemon law proceeding. He gave us a loaner and had the car in for a week. A Ford engineer flew in from Detroit. At the end of the week a sharp mechanic noticed something warm in the trunk. It was the JBL amplifier which was NOT shutting off draining the battery. They put new amplifier and that fixed that particular problem.
Unfortunately, as a part of trying to find this problem, dealer cut lots of wires from harness and I had lingering problems until an indi mechanic fixed couple of bad splices.
An amplifier *can* go bad.
- Vikas
Originally Posted By: grampi
I have absolutely zero reason to suspect a problem with my amp.
Since you obviously think you know better what the problem is than anyone else posting here, why did you bother to ask the question in the first place?
If this were my car I'd already know whether the problem is the alternator or not. It takes about 20 seconds with a $5 Harbor Freight multimeter.
I have absolutely zero reason to suspect a problem with my amp.
Since you obviously think you know better what the problem is than anyone else posting here, why did you bother to ask the question in the first place?
If this were my car I'd already know whether the problem is the alternator or not. It takes about 20 seconds with a $5 Harbor Freight multimeter.
Originally Posted By: Vikas
Grampi,
Here is a story. I bought a loaded SHO in 1990. My wife was the primary driver. It had random electrical problem and battery used to die. After 3rd such occurrence, I had enough and told the dealer that he better fix it or I am starting the lemon law proceeding. He gave us a loaner and had the car in for a week. A Ford engineer flew in from Detroit. At the end of the week a sharp mechanic noticed something warm in the trunk. It was the JBL amplifier which was NOT shutting off draining the battery. They put new amplifier and that fixed that particular problem.
Unfortunately, as a part of trying to find this problem, dealer cut lots of wires from harness and I had lingering problems until an indi mechanic fixed couple of bad splices.
An amplifier *can* go bad.
- Vikas
I know that. The amplifier has a power light on it. The light is not on as long as the head unit is turned off, or am I also supposed to assume this power light is lying to me as well as the other indications that there are no problems with my amp?
Grampi,
Here is a story. I bought a loaded SHO in 1990. My wife was the primary driver. It had random electrical problem and battery used to die. After 3rd such occurrence, I had enough and told the dealer that he better fix it or I am starting the lemon law proceeding. He gave us a loaner and had the car in for a week. A Ford engineer flew in from Detroit. At the end of the week a sharp mechanic noticed something warm in the trunk. It was the JBL amplifier which was NOT shutting off draining the battery. They put new amplifier and that fixed that particular problem.
Unfortunately, as a part of trying to find this problem, dealer cut lots of wires from harness and I had lingering problems until an indi mechanic fixed couple of bad splices.
An amplifier *can* go bad.
- Vikas
I know that. The amplifier has a power light on it. The light is not on as long as the head unit is turned off, or am I also supposed to assume this power light is lying to me as well as the other indications that there are no problems with my amp?
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Originally Posted By: brianl703
Originally Posted By: grampi
I have absolutely zero reason to suspect a problem with my amp.
Since you obviously think you know better what the problem is than anyone else posting here, why did you bother to ask the question in the first place?
If this were my car I'd already know whether the problem is the alternator or not. It takes about 20 seconds with a $5 Harbor Freight multimeter.
I'm agreeing with those who are saying the problem is somewhere within my wiring/battery/alternator. I'm disagreeing that the problem is being caused by my amp and doing extensive troubleshooting on the amp is a waste of time.
Originally Posted By: grampi
I have absolutely zero reason to suspect a problem with my amp.
Since you obviously think you know better what the problem is than anyone else posting here, why did you bother to ask the question in the first place?
If this were my car I'd already know whether the problem is the alternator or not. It takes about 20 seconds with a $5 Harbor Freight multimeter.
I'm agreeing with those who are saying the problem is somewhere within my wiring/battery/alternator. I'm disagreeing that the problem is being caused by my amp and doing extensive troubleshooting on the amp is a waste of time.
Yes, that really narrows it down. Somewhere in the wiring/battery/alternator. At least we know that you don't need new tires or a brake job to fix this problem.
Actually it is a fairly narrowed down issue. It's almost a 100% probability that the problem is with the battery, the alternator, or it's a problem with one of the battery cable connections. There's almost no chance the problem could be caused by anything else.
Both of those components are easy enough to test. Test them. Then you'll know. Autozone will test them for free.
If they turn out to not be the problem, then you will need to look elsewhere...and that means looking at the amp and it's wiring too.
If they turn out to not be the problem, then you will need to look elsewhere...and that means looking at the amp and it's wiring too.
For those of you who said the problem could be with my amp, you win a cigar! I took the car into the service center I use for all of the maintenance I can't do myself. They said they couldn't find any problems with the alternator, battery, or any of the wiring, but the amp was pulling too much current. I guess my next step is to send the amp in for a diagnosis. Good call guys!
Originally Posted By: Vikas
Grampi,
Here is a story. I bought a loaded SHO in 1990.
An amplifier *can* go bad.
- Vikas
Memories. I drew an RO for a Taurus that suffered from constant dead batteries if left parked for more than 2 days. My absolute good luck it was a rare cold day in Austin, and the customer had dropped off the car the night before. Got in, cranked it up and the radio was on. I reached over to turn it off and it was HOT. There was an internal fault and it was pulling major juice from the hotwire used to keep the memory alive. Saved me a possible headache that day.
Grampi,
Here is a story. I bought a loaded SHO in 1990.
An amplifier *can* go bad.
- Vikas
Memories. I drew an RO for a Taurus that suffered from constant dead batteries if left parked for more than 2 days. My absolute good luck it was a rare cold day in Austin, and the customer had dropped off the car the night before. Got in, cranked it up and the radio was on. I reached over to turn it off and it was HOT. There was an internal fault and it was pulling major juice from the hotwire used to keep the memory alive. Saved me a possible headache that day.
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