I hate to have to do this to such a fine oil...

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..but my drainplug is leaking, and I won't be able to replace it for a few weeks. Well actually, I could replace it now, but that would mean I'd have to drain all that GC out of my oilpan and replace it with something cheap. If I remember correctly, when I changed the oil in my car, I don't think there was a gasket around the drainplug, so I guess that's why the oil is leaking. I'm not sure how fast it is leaking out, I check it every few days and it's not going down too fast. I put 4 quarts in when I changed the oil and it didn't quite bring it up to full, and since then I've added another full quart to the car to replace what I've lost. I guess I'll be tossing in some cheap 15w40 HDEO until I can round up the cash to do a proper oil change.
 
Get a Fumoto drain plug and never worry about a gasket and drain plug again.
A great item.
Been using Fumotos on my vehicles for 15 years or so.
cheers.gif
 
If you're quick about removing that bolt and putting in the new one you'll only lose a quart.

The trick is to push in on the bolt as you unscrew it.
 
I only buy traditional USA vehicles owned & built on this side of the earth. What manufacturers use a gasket on their drainplug? I've never seen a gasket ever - not since I started changing oil in the late 60s. Why does any manufacturer need one with today's technology?
 
quote:

Originally posted by Triple_Se7en:
I only buy traditional USA vehicles owned & built on this side of the earth. What manufacturers use a gasket on their drainplug? I've never seen a gasket ever - not since I started changing oil in the late 60s. Why does any manufacturer need one with today's technology?

Most manufacturers use a drain plug where a single use "crush" washer of aluminum, copper, or composite fiber should be used after each oil change. One car I've changed oil is is a '96 Buick Regal. It's got an integrated rubber gasket built into the factory drain plug. I bought an OEM replacement that had the gasket and a small magnet. The factory installed one was the same except for no magnet (there was a place for it though).
 
put a shop-vac on the fill tube. turn it on so it sucks (it works better if a buddy operates it and holds it for you)
then change the gasket while it's sucking.

it helped keet the 4 gallons in my powerstroke. it didn't spill a drop
 
quote:

Originally posted by Colt:
Get a Fumoto drain plug and never worry about a gasket and drain plug again.
A great item.
Been using Fumotos on my vehicles for 15 years or so.
cheers.gif


I agree 100%.

I like the one with the nipple, so you just attach a hose to it that dumps into a container.

Easy to change my oil without making any mess whatsoever.
 
Just so you don`t lose more oil, back the plug out just a couple of threads, wrap some teflon tape around it a couple of times and tighten it back up. Even though you will get oil on the tape, it will stop the leak untill you can get to it when you change your oil.
 
The economy of the cost of GC vs. a clean drain pan (new)is about even if you lose 1.35 quarts ...and/or brake clean does wonders on a dirty one. Add a quarter for a new gasket.
smile.gif
 
As suggested by Ilikesynthetics try the teflon tape idea. I have used method on 2 different cars years ago and it worked with no problems. Also as suggested put in a Fumoto valve they are the ansewer. They also keep the 'iffy lube types from putting the plug back finger tight. How about wiping off dirt etc from around thre plug and then drain the oil into a clean container, fix the plug problem and pour the oil back into the engine?
 
I like the vacuum idea, I will have to use that in the future. Also draining the oil in clean container is what I would do, and have.

The teflon tape idea would work also.
I,m going to try the Fram sure drain set up.
 
I recently had to drain GC at only a few hundred miles to do a repair. Such a shame, the stuff was still quite green.
frown.gif
 
55,

Get a new or clean plastic drain pan.
Drain the oil in the usual manner.
Repair the drain plug.
Install the drain plug.
Obtain a large funnel.
Pour the drained oil into the funnel, into the engine.
Leave a bit of oil in the bottom of the drain pan, about 1 ounce or 2. If anything came out or fell into the drain pan, it should remain at the bottom of the drainpan.
REUSE THAT OIL!!! IT IS STILL OK!!!
cheers.gif
 
1. Buy the new plug and have it handy
2. As you loosen the old plug hold it in to prevent oil from coming out.
3. Place your thumb over the drain as you remove the old plug.
4. Replace thumb with new plug.

I have done this without losing any more than an ounce.
 
Exactly

quote:

Originally posted by pastmaster:
55,

Get a new or clean plastic drain pan.
Drain the oil in the usual manner.
Repair the drain plug.
Install the drain plug.
Obtain a large funnel.
Pour the drained oil into the funnel, into the engine.
Leave a bit of oil in the bottom of the drain pan, about 1 ounce or 2. If anything came out or fell into the drain pan, it should remain at the bottom of the drainpan.
REUSE THAT OIL!!! IT IS STILL OK!!!
cheers.gif


 
I have been changing engine oil for about 40 yrs and have never felt the need for anything other than the oe drainplug. I always keep a box of the correct size fibre O-rings and change the O-rings every second oil change. I see a couple of problems with the aftermarket add-ons. One is that nothing makes the oil flow out faster than taking the oe drainplug off and this fast flow will remove more debris from the bottom of the pan. The add-ons will either protrude into the pan or they will protrude from the bottom of the pan. When they protrude into the pan you cannot drain the pan completely and leave the most dirty oil inside. When they protrude out, depending on the vehicle, there is a danger of them being sheared off by rocks, ice banks, packed snow etc.
 
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