If I were you I would do as mentioned above, go to Napa and get Napa full synthetic, it's actually Valvoline synpower full synthetic just in a different bottle, both made by Ashland and you will see it on the back of bottle, if you want to run it 5k use a mid level filter like a wix or Napa gold since you will be at Napa anyway, I'm not a fan of m1 but many on here like it, I think the Napa synthetic is just as good if not better just don't run it past 6k as the tbn usually isn't as good as m1.
I can't afford mobil 1 anymore,help
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Originally Posted By: Bandito440
I'd stick with PYB (Pennzoil Yellow Bottle - their conventional) and a Purolator Classic filter for so few miles and change it annually. You have a very temperate climate going for you in San Diego which helps too. The 5qt jug and filter at Wal-Mart will come to less than $20 before tax. Take your car on a 20 minute trip once a week to get everything hot.
Dark oil is doing its job - keeping the bad stuff in suspension.
Was about to post the same PYB and Purolator Classic, IMO both are hard to beat for the $$$
I'd stick with PYB (Pennzoil Yellow Bottle - their conventional) and a Purolator Classic filter for so few miles and change it annually. You have a very temperate climate going for you in San Diego which helps too. The 5qt jug and filter at Wal-Mart will come to less than $20 before tax. Take your car on a 20 minute trip once a week to get everything hot.
Dark oil is doing its job - keeping the bad stuff in suspension.
Was about to post the same PYB and Purolator Classic, IMO both are hard to beat for the $$$
Originally Posted By: boosted
If I were you I would do as mentioned above, go to Napa and get Napa full synthetic, it's actually Valvoline synpower full synthetic just in a different bottle, both made by Ashland and you will see it on the back of bottle, if you want to run it 5k use a mid level filter like a wix or Napa gold since you will be at Napa anyway, I'm not a fan of m1 but many on here like it, I think the Napa synthetic is just as good if not better just don't run it past 6k as the tbn usually isn't as good as m1.
Its not exactly synpower as it has a weaker additive package.
If I were you I would do as mentioned above, go to Napa and get Napa full synthetic, it's actually Valvoline synpower full synthetic just in a different bottle, both made by Ashland and you will see it on the back of bottle, if you want to run it 5k use a mid level filter like a wix or Napa gold since you will be at Napa anyway, I'm not a fan of m1 but many on here like it, I think the Napa synthetic is just as good if not better just don't run it past 6k as the tbn usually isn't as good as m1.
Its not exactly synpower as it has a weaker additive package.
Mobil 1 has a good track record.
If you're concerned about price but still want to retain a long lasting oil I would downgrade to Quaker State Ultimate Durability. You can buy it in the 5 quart bottle for $20.57 at Wal-Mart, and it will last you an entire year if you treat it right.
That's my advice. Two conventional oils will still be more expensive, but if you want to go with two conventional oils, get Quaker State in the Green bottle, it's $12 or so, so you'll be spending about $25 a year vs $21.
If you're concerned about price but still want to retain a long lasting oil I would downgrade to Quaker State Ultimate Durability. You can buy it in the 5 quart bottle for $20.57 at Wal-Mart, and it will last you an entire year if you treat it right.
That's my advice. Two conventional oils will still be more expensive, but if you want to go with two conventional oils, get Quaker State in the Green bottle, it's $12 or so, so you'll be spending about $25 a year vs $21.
mobil conventional oil is good oil also and it is cheaper than most of the others
Listen to volk06. I'm one of the last people to recommend a synthetic, but if you're going to extend your OCIs appropriately, the synthetic will be worth it. If you're worried about changing your oil at 3000 miles (you're at around 2800 miles), switch to a conventional. You guys get far better sales on synthetic than we do, anyhow.
Realistically, if you park the car a few extra days, what you save in gas will cover the difference between conventional and syn.
That being said, with the mileage you put on the car (and assuming it's not a sludger or anything), the conventional will protect equally well over a 3000 mile interval, easily.
I'm not afraid to run my G on conventional. I ran my Audi mostly on conventional. I had taxis go up to 600,000 miles only on conventional, with 6,000 mile oil change intervals.
Realistically, if you park the car a few extra days, what you save in gas will cover the difference between conventional and syn.
I'm not afraid to run my G on conventional. I ran my Audi mostly on conventional. I had taxis go up to 600,000 miles only on conventional, with 6,000 mile oil change intervals.
Originally Posted By: boosted
Purolator classics aren't holding up, go look in the filter section, spend 2-3 bucks more and get a good filter.
After having knock problems at cold startup on a 26K mi 4.6 Ford, I tossed the one I still had in the trash...
With a good filter I wouldn't hesitate to run the M1 two years or 5000 mi which ever came first...
Purolator classics aren't holding up, go look in the filter section, spend 2-3 bucks more and get a good filter.
After having knock problems at cold startup on a 26K mi 4.6 Ford, I tossed the one I still had in the trash...
With a good filter I wouldn't hesitate to run the M1 two years or 5000 mi which ever came first...
Originally Posted By: boosted
^ another unhappy purolator user, coincidence? I think not.
There will be unhappy users of any oil or any filter. All companies have some defects. Just the way it is. You get what you pay for. I've used lots of P1s without issue but lately the napa gold has been my choice. Only use motorcrafts on my fords.
^ another unhappy purolator user, coincidence? I think not.
There will be unhappy users of any oil or any filter. All companies have some defects. Just the way it is. You get what you pay for. I've used lots of P1s without issue but lately the napa gold has been my choice. Only use motorcrafts on my fords.
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Same here my Fords only get motorcraft oil filters, fram air filters, and on sale conventional oils.
Find someone with a Costco membership and buy it for $4.50/qt when they have their case sale which has been once per quarter.
Originally Posted By: boosted
If I were you I would do as mentioned above, go to Napa and get Napa full synthetic, it's actually Valvoline synpower full synthetic just in a different bottle, both made by Ashland and you will see it on the back of bottle, if you want to run it 5k use a mid level filter like a wix or Napa gold since you will be at Napa anyway, I'm not a fan of m1 but many on here like it, I think the Napa synthetic is just as good if not better just don't run it past 6k as the tbn usually isn't as good as m1.
+1 on this, The NAPA Syn. is on sale this moth for $3.49. Cheaper than the Val White and made by Valovoline. Buy 5 Qts on sale and get $5.00 off the NAPA Platinum filter. College affordable !!
If I were you I would do as mentioned above, go to Napa and get Napa full synthetic, it's actually Valvoline synpower full synthetic just in a different bottle, both made by Ashland and you will see it on the back of bottle, if you want to run it 5k use a mid level filter like a wix or Napa gold since you will be at Napa anyway, I'm not a fan of m1 but many on here like it, I think the Napa synthetic is just as good if not better just don't run it past 6k as the tbn usually isn't as good as m1.
+1 on this, The NAPA Syn. is on sale this moth for $3.49. Cheaper than the Val White and made by Valovoline. Buy 5 Qts on sale and get $5.00 off the NAPA Platinum filter. College affordable !!
Yes, with all the free rebates why pay for oil.
But I do laugh at some of these posts, the difference between dino oil and oil at wally world is 10$, I mean common for 10$ a couple times a year I think I will run the better synthetics.
Originally Posted By: Highline9
G oil, just pay tax and a stamp. That was easy.
But I do laugh at some of these posts, the difference between dino oil and oil at wally world is 10$, I mean common for 10$ a couple times a year I think I will run the better synthetics.
Originally Posted By: Highline9
G oil, just pay tax and a stamp. That was easy.
Not even, Quaker State Ultimate Durability is maybe $5 more at $21 for a five qt. jug, and it meets some pretty rugged spec's...
The QSUD is a very good buy. Plus keep you eye out for rebates (I got 10 qts of QSUD almost for free this year). And if you are very worried you can ask for oil or gift certificates for holidays (no, I'm not kidding). you can probably cut enough out of your budget for botique oils even. Not sure where you spend your money though. I eat a lot of oatmeal to have some extra cash on a grad student budget.
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Originally Posted By: joaks
The QSUD is a very good buy. Plus keep you eye out for rebates (I got 10 qts of QSUD almost for free this year). And if you are very worried you can ask for oil or gift certificates for holidays (no, I'm not kidding). you can probably cut enough out of your budget for botique oils even. Not sure where you spend your money though. I eat a lot of oatmeals to have some extra cash on a grad student budget.
I like oatmeal!
The QSUD is a very good buy. Plus keep you eye out for rebates (I got 10 qts of QSUD almost for free this year). And if you are very worried you can ask for oil or gift certificates for holidays (no, I'm not kidding). you can probably cut enough out of your budget for botique oils even. Not sure where you spend your money though. I eat a lot of oatmeals to have some extra cash on a grad student budget.
I like oatmeal!
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