I used the specified Hubbell HBL9450a outlet.
And no, I would never plug/unplug from that outlet unless I absolutely had to.
I am PHEV Ready!
- Thread starter The Critic
- Start date
I used the specified Hubbell HBL9450a outlet.
And no, I would never plug/unplug from that outlet unless I absolutely had to.
Illegal without an actual lock-out in your panel
Your privilege is showing.
OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
Depends on the EV of course. The e-tron is a tank and had a range of about 340km from that 94kWh battery; 3.62km/kWh. My trip to work is about 7km; 14km round-trip, excluding any errands/service calls during the day. So, if I leave at 9AM, get home at around 5, start charging around 9PM, stop charging at 9AM (12hrs) we add 54km to the vehicle so the net is 11.13kWh; 40.3km of range added with a full 12hr charge as additional capacity. However, I drive to the butcher, the grocery store, do any service calls during the day and it's very easy to wipe-out that 40.3km and end up net negative where the 12hrs doesn't yield additive capacity but rather doesn't make-up for the volume consumed during the day.
240V/50A on the other hand was more than enough.
Every garage has electricity that I’ve been in, it’s already EV ready
The main thing needed is right to charge legislation, in many places you can’t even pay your own money to install a charger.
Many places also charge far higher taxes on EVs than their gas equivalents.
No way to do a lockout, as I use the outlet for an air compressor and my travel trailer.
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- Feb 6, 2021
- Messages
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I don't even have an electric car
Corded Mobile Connector
The Corded Mobile Connector features a NEMA 14-50 plug and improved charging speeds in comparison to the Mobile Connector with NEMA 5-15 Adapter. Includes: 1x NEMA 14-50 Corded Mobile Connector - 20’ cable 1x storage bag Corded Mobile Connector Manual Note: The Corded Mobile Connector is...
shop.tesla.com
Apparently Tesla makes two versions of their "mobile connector." One version has swappable plugs (5-15, 14-30, 14-50, 6-50, etc.) and maxes out at 32A. There's another version, better known as the corded mobile connector, has a permanently attached 14-50 plug that allows for a 40A charge rate.
The version with the swappable plugs is most popular and always available. The latter is rarely available, but if/when it is, is a steal.....since it is only $200.
You just need to buy a $150 Tesla to J1772 adapter and you have a 40A charger for only $350. Most 3rd party UL approved 40A chargers are >$600.
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The "swappable plugs" are coded to limit the current offered to the EV.
My 1st generation Mobile Connector came with NEMA 14-50 and 5-15, runs at full 40A on the 14-50, 12A on the 5-15.
To be fair, the "swappable plugs" is not the only feature of the Gen2 Mobile Connector. I believe the Gen2's also have a chip to detect plug overheating during a charge.
I thought I'd never go full EV, but after a few months with a RAV4 Prime I realized hybrid was super meh, and went back to full on ICE with an RDX, but the allure of performance and economy from EV's pulled me back, and I installed #6 wire, 60amp breaker, and set my GrizzlE to 32a. My car says it sees 31a, fwiw. Regardless, I think 32a for full EV is absolutely fine. The most the car can make use of on a 240V is 40a, and I'd rather keep an 8a "buffer" than charge up from 0-100% theoretically 2 hours quicker. It just isn't really a big deal for my use, the extra 8a. Less strain on my whole "grid" this way. If I ran a taxi service or Uber or something it might matter, but for my use, nah.
How many amps you need for a charger has everything to do with your expected commute distance and winter weather.
Let's assume you will charge at night when time of use in most areas means cheaper power. 20 amps at 220V will add about 12 miles (about 20km) range per hour of charging. Winter will decrease that effective range up to 40% if your temps go down below -10 F or so. Warmer temps, means less range loss. In our use case, 16amps@220V is more than enough. If you insist on buying something ridiculous like a Hummer EV, then stop reading now.
So 20amps@220V over six hours charging and you've added 72 miles of range (less if you're charging a truck etc) Charging past 80% is not recommended unless you need it, so depending on use, you will likely not charge to 100%, nor will you let the pack go much below 35%.
You can charge at any rate you like at 120V or 220V, however 220V is better for A.) Preconditioning a cold car B.) Minimizing overhead loss during charging. In other words, if the car needs 200-300 watts overhead during charging, then charging at faster rates will be overall more efficient. You can play around at the site linked below with voltage, current and various EV models. It will display range added per hour and other useful bits if you're planning infrastructure around EV charging. It's a very useful tool if you're planning to buy an EV and wondering if your electrical is ok for charging.
evcompare.io
Let's assume you will charge at night when time of use in most areas means cheaper power. 20 amps at 220V will add about 12 miles (about 20km) range per hour of charging. Winter will decrease that effective range up to 40% if your temps go down below -10 F or so. Warmer temps, means less range loss. In our use case, 16amps@220V is more than enough. If you insist on buying something ridiculous like a Hummer EV, then stop reading now.
So 20amps@220V over six hours charging and you've added 72 miles of range (less if you're charging a truck etc) Charging past 80% is not recommended unless you need it, so depending on use, you will likely not charge to 100%, nor will you let the pack go much below 35%.
You can charge at any rate you like at 120V or 220V, however 220V is better for A.) Preconditioning a cold car B.) Minimizing overhead loss during charging. In other words, if the car needs 200-300 watts overhead during charging, then charging at faster rates will be overall more efficient. You can play around at the site linked below with voltage, current and various EV models. It will display range added per hour and other useful bits if you're planning infrastructure around EV charging. It's a very useful tool if you're planning to buy an EV and wondering if your electrical is ok for charging.
Electric car charging cost and time calculator
evcompare.io
If you go to the expense of adding a charging specific circuit, make sure you consider future needs as best as possible.How many amps you need for a charger has everything to do with your expected commute distance and winter weather.
Let's assume you will charge at night when time of use in most areas means cheaper power. 20 amps at 220V will add about 12 miles (about 20km) range per hour of charging. Winter will decrease that effective range up to 40% if your temps go down below -10 F or so. Warmer temps, means less range loss. In our use case, 16amps@220V is more than enough. If you insist on buying something ridiculous like a Hummer EV, then stop reading now.
So 20amps@220V over six hours charging and you've added 72 miles of range (less if you're charging a truck etc) Charging past 80% is not recommended unless you need it, so depending on use, you will likely not charge to 100%, nor will you let the pack go much below 35%.
You can charge at any rate you like at 120V or 220V, however 220V is better for A.) Preconditioning a cold car B.) Minimizing overhead loss during charging. In other words, if the car needs 200-300 watts overhead during charging, then charging at faster rates will be overall more efficient. You can play around at the site linked below with voltage, current and various EV models. It will display range added per hour and other useful bits if you're planning infrastructure around EV charging. It's a very useful tool if you're planning to buy an EV and wondering if your electrical is ok for charging.
Electric car charging cost and time calculator
Pay once cry once.
The door looks a little crooked on that Siemens panel. Slots on the faceplate screws aren't all consistent either..
I'd list the house ASAP.
I'd list the house ASAP.
It may eventually happen via residential building codes but for now the NAHB (Nat'l Association of Home Builders), who is a stakeholder in code revisions (every 2 yrs), has not been supportive.
Literally 110vac at most parking spots (the same as they have had up north since the 70’s for block heaters)
Is all they would need
If apartment dwellers want more than 50 miles range they can pay at a commercial station.
Workplace 110 volt charging is another low cost no brainer given the so called grid requirements to charge during most folks workday.
110V is not a solution, especially outside of a house. The goal is to charge and move so another car can get on. Otherwise you need bazillions of chargers. You should only need to charge every couple days, once a week, whatever.
Public chargers can charge you a dwell time if you stay on too long.
Apartment and condo complexes are starting to look into charging stations; customers are demanding it.
How is that supposed to work at work?
"Excuse me, sorry, I have to go move my car, can we put this meeting on hold while I do that"?
Put 110V outlets in and let them stay plugged in all 8 hours.
