Hyundai V6 Engines
- Thread starter Rancejunge
- Start date
Curious. Did Hyundai quote you a price for that adjustment?
And I just read an article (review) in the weekend edition of the Wall Street Journal re: the 2023 G80 and the “Electric G80.” Sweet!
I’ll take the gas model, please. Thank you.
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Here are some comments on the Genesis forum:
Intake manifold, plugs, valve covers, cams all have to come out I assume it is probably somewhere in the neighborhood of $1000 and up.
The check is actually fairly easy, the valve covers have to come off but that is about it, you can then get a feeler gauge between each bucket and the cam. Checking alone maybe only $300-500 or so. The cost comes if you actually have to replace a bucket, to get to them the cams have to come out and that means the font cover, timing chain, water pump, and so on need to come off. Figure $1,500 and that assumes they even do the work and do it right.
Considering the valve adjustments for this engine require the use of shims, it's highly unlikely they are too tight, leaving the only alternative... too loose. If you are not having a valve train racket or at least a ticking I wouldn't bother. If I was really curious I would break out the stethoscope and have a good listen.
I did a quick search here and there seems to be no one I could find who has had it done and based on your dealer's comments, not many others have had it done either.
I would not trust Hyundai dealer mechanics to do this right, and they probably would make it worse.
OK here is a person that bought a new Kia Telluride (traveling service guy) that was putting 10,000 miles a month on his V6. I never heard him say anything about adjusting the solid bucket lifters. Of all things the alternator took him out? He never had any trouble with the telly until this. He even got 90,000 miles on the factory Michelin tires that came on the Telly.
Well, I don’t have the Telluride anymore, traded it at 168K miles. I lost the alternator & battery at 168K and in the process of trying to get off the road in downtown New Orleans during rush hour with no power, no hazards lights or turn signals, no power steering, and no power breaks, I managed to also damage the transmission which I did not find out about until I spent over $1300 to replace alternator & battery. Found out tranny was damaged after picking up from dealer. Ended up trading in rather than spending $$$$ on fixing transmission
Intake manifold, plugs, valve covers, cams all have to come out I assume it is probably somewhere in the neighborhood of $1000 and up.
The check is actually fairly easy, the valve covers have to come off but that is about it, you can then get a feeler gauge between each bucket and the cam. Checking alone maybe only $300-500 or so. The cost comes if you actually have to replace a bucket, to get to them the cams have to come out and that means the font cover, timing chain, water pump, and so on need to come off. Figure $1,500 and that assumes they even do the work and do it right.
Considering the valve adjustments for this engine require the use of shims, it's highly unlikely they are too tight, leaving the only alternative... too loose. If you are not having a valve train racket or at least a ticking I wouldn't bother. If I was really curious I would break out the stethoscope and have a good listen.
I did a quick search here and there seems to be no one I could find who has had it done and based on your dealer's comments, not many others have had it done either.
I would not trust Hyundai dealer mechanics to do this right, and they probably would make it worse.
OK here is a person that bought a new Kia Telluride (traveling service guy) that was putting 10,000 miles a month on his V6. I never heard him say anything about adjusting the solid bucket lifters. Of all things the alternator took him out? He never had any trouble with the telly until this. He even got 90,000 miles on the factory Michelin tires that came on the Telly.
Well, I don’t have the Telluride anymore, traded it at 168K miles. I lost the alternator & battery at 168K and in the process of trying to get off the road in downtown New Orleans during rush hour with no power, no hazards lights or turn signals, no power steering, and no power breaks, I managed to also damage the transmission which I did not find out about until I spent over $1300 to replace alternator & battery. Found out tranny was damaged after picking up from dealer. Ended up trading in rather than spending $$$$ on fixing transmission
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IME, based on reshimming a Toyota V8(FYI, almost all Toyotas use solid lifters with shims or single-piece buckets, it was only recently with the GR/AR engines and the current Dynamic Force engines that use HLAs) the shim or the bucket is designed to “spin” as it actuates to promote even wear. Many of those will be within valve clearance spec well past 150K. Many Toyotas use shim over bucket, some use shim under bucket(and supposedly shims for a Yamaha bike fit) and a few use single-piece buckets.
Hyundai hasn’t proven their engines can run without catastrophic failure but the V6s seem OK. It wouldn’t hurt to check the clearances and reshim the engines but keeping clean oil does help.
Hyundai hasn’t proven their engines can run without catastrophic failure but the V6s seem OK. It wouldn’t hurt to check the clearances and reshim the engines but keeping clean oil does help.
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- Aug 12, 2022
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BG MOA
Numbers from a VOA done awhile ago (Feb 2010).
Code:
ALUMINUM 2
CHROMIUM 0
IRON 5
COPPER 0
LEAD 1
TIN 0
MOLYBDENUM 120
NICKEL 0
MANGANESE 0
SILVER 0
TITANIUM 0
POTASSIUM 0
BORON 9
SILICON 8
SODIUM 3
CALCIUM 11390
MAGNESIUM 50
PHOSPHORUS 1323
ZINC 1429
BARIUM 0
cSt Viscosity 60.1
SUS Viscosity 10.25
Flashpoint in F 340
Fuel 2'> -
Antifreeze 2'> -
Water 0
Insolubles 0.2
TBN 18.6
TAN
ISO Code
Numbers from a VOA done awhile ago (Feb 2010).
Code:
ALUMINUM 2
CHROMIUM 0
IRON 5
COPPER 0
LEAD 1
TIN 0
MOLYBDENUM 120
NICKEL 0
MANGANESE 0
SILVER 0
TITANIUM 0
POTASSIUM 0
BORON 9
SILICON 8
SODIUM 3
CALCIUM 11390
MAGNESIUM 50
PHOSPHORUS 1323
ZINC 1429
BARIUM 0
cSt Viscosity 60.1
SUS Viscosity 10.25
Flashpoint in F 340
Fuel 2'> -
Antifreeze 2'> -
Water 0
Insolubles 0.2
TBN 18.6
TAN
ISO Code
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And that means what when added to an already formulated motor oil?
FWIW I have over 460k on my old 1MZ-FE which is shim-over-bucket and I’ve never used an additive nor anything else but an oil with good approvals such as Castrol or Mobil 1 0W-40.
I’m going to second this and every other recommendation for OP to just run a quality oil and forget about it
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- Aug 12, 2022
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- 11
I agree with the above posts! Watching all these different engine tear downs gives me insight on the different companies designs and flaws. Looks like keeping everything super clean with on time changes with a best quality oil is as good as it gets. This is why i do my own servicing. Take a look at the goo in the bottom of this Mercedes AMG V8 @ the 26:00 mark? I would want to believe anyone with that expensive Mercedes AMG would have it serviced at the dealer with quality oil. I would love to know the history of that engine and if someone put an additive in? One thing I learned about Hyundai engines they use Full Floating rod beariings which is much better than pressed rod bearing IMHO. This was how I build my own hobby race engines with Forged pistons and ductile iron rings that overlapped for complete seal in the cylinder bore.
From the Genesis V6 forum:
Stock rod and piston next to BC h-beam stroker rod... even stock piston is full floating !
From the Genesis V6 forum:
Stock rod and piston next to BC h-beam stroker rod... even stock piston is full floating !
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dnewton3
Staff member
I don't the details of this particular engine, but the shim/bucket (or also called DAMB "direct acting mechanical bucket") is not uncommon in many engine applications across a variety of vehicles and equipment. Each application will be unique to a large degree.
For example, Honda uses shim/bucket in the wonderful old GL1800 Goldwing. Valve checks were to be done every 32k miles. It was not uncommon to see one or two shims needing replacement at the first check interval. However, it seems once those engines "seated in", all the subseqent checks at following intervals showed little to no adjustements needed. That's just the nature of that particular engine series. Whereas other engines, such as these discussed in the OPs thread, seem to have a greater need for getting checked.
I can't say why some shim/bucket applications are sensitive and others are not; just the nature of the beast. Better to check them at least once than not check them. Also, I'm not convinced that any oil or additive is going to significantly advance or retard the timing of the need for checks. The only way to really know if an additive has the ability to affect the cycle length is to run large scale experiments, and no one here on BITOG has the time money to do a good study with enough data to be credible.
For example, Honda uses shim/bucket in the wonderful old GL1800 Goldwing. Valve checks were to be done every 32k miles. It was not uncommon to see one or two shims needing replacement at the first check interval. However, it seems once those engines "seated in", all the subseqent checks at following intervals showed little to no adjustements needed. That's just the nature of that particular engine series. Whereas other engines, such as these discussed in the OPs thread, seem to have a greater need for getting checked.
I can't say why some shim/bucket applications are sensitive and others are not; just the nature of the beast. Better to check them at least once than not check them. Also, I'm not convinced that any oil or additive is going to significantly advance or retard the timing of the need for checks. The only way to really know if an additive has the ability to affect the cycle length is to run large scale experiments, and no one here on BITOG has the time money to do a good study with enough data to be credible.
wemay
Site Donor 2023
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I’ll third this. Looks like that BG crap also adds iron wear metals to the oil.
VW's and motorcycles have used this system for years. I have adjusted one VW after 180K and it was very minimal change. Maybe superior metal in the valves and seats though.
Hyundai seems to favor ACEA A5/B5 and Cx oils vs. ILSAC oils(Hyundai is a member of ILSAC). Maybe going Euro might be a better idea.
Also, bikes call for more frequent valve adjustments - they get revved much higher and live in higher speeds.
Many engines use cam on bucket, which is basically a "flat tappet" type of mechanism. My Tacoma V6 has that setup, and also many motorcycle engines use cam on bucket/shim design.
Typically the valves need adjustment from valve face to valve seat wear, which makes the valve clearance too small.
Only if you have a record of getting the valves checked/adjusted at 60K miles.
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Wow ZeeOSix you maybe right on the 100k warranty, I hadn't thought of that. They could spin it that way I suppose. Thanks!