Hyundai Accent 2008 Automatic - Car Not accelerating - Fix the issue

eduardo11791

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Bad injector(s) causing the cat to go bad? Just guessing that because you said you smell gas when you open the oil cap. I would think one of those would set the check engine light, so I don’t know.

Do you have a scan tool to check for pending codes?
I don't have a code scanner, will get one soon.
 
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Remove the upstream 02 sensor from the exhaust system and drive it to see if your condition improves.
 

eduardo11791

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Remove the upstream 02 sensor from the exhaust system and drive it to see if your condition improves.
Is the upstream sensor is the one that goes in the front on the heatshield of the exhaust manifold circled in red?

This is a pic of another hyundai, no my car but same model.
 

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None of those symptoms would cause lack of acceleration, only thing that come to mind is the transmission is slipping.
Who did the ATF & Filter change and what fluid and filter were used?


This is something worth a answer. The OP mentioned changing the fluid and filter. What exactly went into this transmission?
 
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Is the upstream sensor is the one that goes in the front on the heatshield of the exhaust manifold circled in red?

Yes that’s the upstream o2 sensor (it’s located before the cat). It will be loud as heck, but if your condition improves with it removed then it might be a clogged cat.
 
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I would get one that can scan car specific codes. The generic ones just do engine and emissions codes.

Either Autel AP200 or Thinkcar Pro is pretty cheap.



Which are all that is needed for this problem :)

The $20 Walmart scanner, which is an Autel, will read generic (P0---, P2---) and mfr-specific codes (P1---)

You basically never need any non-engine/emissions codes. I have never needed that functionality in many OBDII cars. The only time I ever had to find or reference an ABS code was an old Honda from the 90s with the separate ABS pump that had its own fluid, but that was OBDI and didn't even require a scan tool to read it.
 
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Which are all that is needed for this problem :)

The $20 Walmart scanner, which is an Autel, will read generic (P0---, P2---) and mfr-specific codes (P1---)

You basically never need any non-engine/emissions codes. I have never needed that functionality in many OBDII cars. The only time I ever had to find or reference an ABS code was an old Honda from the 90s with the separate ABS pump that had its own fluid, but that was OBDI and didn't even require a scan tool to read it.
I don't think you mentioned which Walmart scanner. Those basic OBDII scanners only do engine and emissions codes, not more advanced manufacturer specific codes. If you're going to spend a little, spend a little more to get a decent one. I have used my manufacturer specific one to diagnose a steering angle sensor, could have also been a wheel sensor without having the scanner. I also had transmission error codes and ABS codes in the past, but those I brought to an indy mechanic in the past as I didn't have a scanner that could do all the codes back then.
 
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I don't think you mentioned which Walmart scanner. Those basic OBDII scanners only do engine and emissions codes, not more advanced manufacturer specific codes. If you're going to spend a little, spend a little more to get a decent one. I have used my manufacturer specific one to diagnose a steering angle sensor, could have also been a wheel sensor without having the scanner. I also had transmission error codes and ABS codes in the past, but those I brought to an indy mechanic in the past as I didn't have a scanner that could do all the codes back then.

Yeah, it's a cheap basic OBDII scanner. I remember it being Autel, but I forget the model number. I'll check next time I'm there.

I got a used Innova for the more advanced stuff. I paid $70 used for a scan tool that costs $200 new. I'd rather have a real scan tool than an app
 
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Yeah, it's a cheap basic OBDII scanner. I remember it being Autel, but I forget the model number. I'll check next time I'm there.

I got a used Innova for the more advanced stuff. I paid $70 used for a scan tool that costs $200 new. I'd rather have a real scan tool than an app
Those are real scan tools. They just use an app instead of making you pay extra for a display. The limitation on them is that they just do one car line so if you just have one car, it's great, not so great if you're running a shop.
 

eduardo11791

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This is something worth a answer. The OP mentioned changing the fluid and filter. What exactly went into this transmission?
Not all, it's a small transmission. At first I did overfilled and drained it, while driving I filled a bit again to leave it at the right level.

its a Dexron VI
 
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I'm going to be mentioning what are the current symptoms and what have been done previously and be straight to the point so it can be easier to guess what it can be the issue. I'm not a mechanic but I've learned a lot thanks for scotty and other sources, besides myself thinking what the "****" is happening with my car.




What has been done (Since the last year):

- Brand new Valve Cover with gasket

- Changed Spark Plugs (I did the gaps right) and coils (Cables were not changed, was to expensive with brand new cables)

- Alternator (Another issue that it was having)

- Transmission oil + Transmission oil filter

- Oil changes

- Change Radiator (I've been checking and fluid not leaking into the engine).

- Air Filter




Symptoms:

- Car no accelerating.

- Engine used to vibrate a lot. After changing the alternator (When I noticed the voltage drop), it stopped to vibrate that much, vibrate less. (I guess it could be a engine mount but they seems ok to me.

- A bit/moderate White smoke coming out of the engine oil cap after running for a while when I open cap (And a strong smell of gas)

- Smell of gas on the exhaust pipe. (Sometimes I can smell it on the car a bit when I turn just the blower on, A/C Has not been repaired yet)

- Oil coming into the Throttle body through the PCV Valve hose.

- Oil coming out of the recently installed Valve Cover Gasket.




What I will do today:

- Change Gas Filter since it needs to be changed

-Clean the Throttle body with some cleaner and give it a run.




What I can guess:

- Having high oil pressure

- Injectors

- To little air on the engine

- Wear on the Engine

- Wear on the Transmission




To be honest I'm desperate at this point. I don't have much money to solve issues, I can buy the parts and do the job. I did not know a thing about cars last year, and I've been doing these out of just experience with almost no help from none one since I rely heavily on this car, I will check if the valve cover had a PCV Valve from factory just to check if that's the reason why the oil is getting into the Throttle body. Any help is appreciated
The pcv valve routes blow by and oil vapor back into the intake to be combusted, thats how the system is supposed to work. BUT if you have too much blow by from worn rings the system will be overloaded. You might want to do a leak down and compression test before throwing the parts cannon at it
 

eduardo11791

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The pcv valve routes blow by and oil vapor back into the intake to be combusted, thats how the system is supposed to work. BUT if you have too much blow by from worn rings the system will be overloaded. You might want to do a leak down and compression test before throwing the parts cannon at it
Ok thanks. Will do before any repairs.
 
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Does the RPM increase when accelerator pedal is depressed? My first guess is something is disconnected such as the throttle body or accelerator pedal if the car is drive-by-wire. Next guess is; if the RPM is increasing but no acceleration the transmission has a problem.

Your specific problem isn't clear enough for me to understand. The PCV valve could just be stuck open, new or clean the old one may help.
 
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