Hybrid brakes and calipers

On this subject, has anyone ever tried using original Honda ShinEtsu Silicone grease on these slide pins?

I got a tube of that stuff recently for the weather seals/rubber parts on my Mercedes, works great. I've also used it on a few other applications, like my dog chain clasp, which is constantly exposed to the weather. It seems to last way longer in that application than anything I've tried before.
This stuff seems to resist weather and stays very slick for a long time. Being a silicone grease, it likely will withstand a lot of heat as well.

https://www.shinetsusilicones.com/rtv.aspx?ID=G-3W-0-M

I see no drawbacks, but there may be a product more suitable.
How much is this stuff? It doesn’t sound like anything special
 
How much is this stuff? It doesn’t sound like anything special
$20.00 a tube (3.5 ounce). Reminds me of how SilGlyde became so popular.
I suppose it might be special considering the fact that Honda thinks it's better than anything else for door seals and weatherstripping.
But, I'm the kind of guy that likes to find multiple uses for such specialized products, So, I asked the question.

Looking at the link, there might be something a little bit more suited for this application, but once again, I was just asking.
 
Most 100% silicone lubricant/paste like mission silicone has many uses. I agree with you, I also like to find a product that can serve a few or more purposes. AGS Sil-Glyde is good stuff but falls short on being food grade where many of the 100% silicone products are marketed as safe for potable water such as the (NSF/ANSI Standard 61). Toyota thinks they have a superior brake lube as Nissan does with some anti-seize they recommend so why can't Honda play the same. lol
 
$20.00 a tube (3.5 ounce). Reminds me of how SilGlyde became so popular.
I suppose it might be special considering the fact that Honda thinks it's better than anything else for door seals and weatherstripping.
But, I'm the kind of guy that likes to find multiple uses for such specialized products, So, I asked the question.

Looking at the link, there might be something a little bit more suited for this application, but once again, I was just asking.
Shin etsu grease from Honda was the key to stopping the rattling and whistling in:

1. Funky door seals in extended cab f150 doors
2. Chronic Lexus sunroof rattling
3. Restored both vehicle doors to a tighter close

Doesn’t take much - one tube has lasted me a long time.

Also, Lexus puts twice as much material in the rubber seals than ford does.
 
Do you have full wheel covers? No way would I let these brakes get this far if I was able to see the through the spokes.

As far as doing a pad slap, I don''t think it will work given the rotor condition. It may be smooth now because the pads only contact the smooth parts, but once you free up the sticking pin/caliper and the new pads make full contact, you will get pulsation most likely.
The alloy wheels cover things up pretty significantly.

The rotor wear pattern has existed a long time. I flagged it on here in fact long ago but it was noted that the rears on a hybrid don’t get used much. I let it slide. It may well have been an issue 50k ago, but there was just more pad material.

I guess my next decision is if I take a risk on a shop turning the notionally higher quality OE rotor, or take a chance on what is most likely a third world produced replacement of unknown quality. @The Critic what would you buy??
 
The alloy wheels cover things up pretty significantly.

The rotor wear pattern has existed a long time. I flagged it on here in fact long ago but it was noted that the rears on a hybrid don’t get used much. I let it slide. It may well have been an issue 50k ago, but there was just more pad material.

I guess my next decision is if I take a risk on a shop turning the notionally higher quality OE rotor, or take a chance on what is most likely a third world produced replacement of unknown quality. @The Critic what would you buy??
I don't think anyone will want to resurface that rotor; the amount of rust on that surface will chew up their bits. I would probably price out both options and see; those rear brakes are so easy to do that I personally wouldn't spend multiples for OE.
 
Your brakes barely wear due to hybrid system. I would replace the rotors and it can be non OEM.

I no longer do my own brakes however used to do an additional step lubricating the brake slides. It may no longer be relevant.
 
Most 100% silicone lubricant/paste like mission silicone has many uses. I agree with you, I also like to find a product that can serve a few or more purposes. AGS Sil-Glyde is good stuff but falls short on being food grade where many of the 100% silicone products are marketed as safe for potable water such as the (NSF/ANSI Standard 61). Toyota thinks they have a superior brake lube as Nissan does with some anti-seize they recommend so why can't Honda play the same. lol
I wouldn’t be shocked if the Mission stuff was repackaged Molykote 111(aka Dow Corning 111, when DowDuPont split apart, DuPont kept the former Molykote brand, while the silicone RTV/sealants business was kept with Dow) or similar. The major silicone makers - Dow, Shin-Etsu, Momentive(former GE Silicones and GE-Toshiba Silicones, now a part of a Korean chemical company) and Wacker Chemie have private label programs. Xiameter was Dow Corning’s private label/bulk line.
 
I don't think anyone will want to resurface that rotor; the amount of rust on that surface will chew up their bits. I would probably price out both options and see; those rear brakes are so easy to do that I personally wouldn't spend multiples for OE.
OE rotors are $91 each.

Junk are $16.

“Better” like Brembo are $40 each, or Bosch for $30 each.

Rock auto has too many to choose.
 
OE rotors are $91 each.

Junk are $16.

“Better” like Brembo are $40 each, or Bosch for $30 each.

Rock auto has too many to choose.
I would not pay for $91 OEM if Brembo is $40. But for people who insist OEM then $91 isn't too bad for 11 years 112k miles either. It is not like you have to do it every 2 years.
 
I just did a pad slap on the Impreza front brakes, with similar looking rotors, mostly because I didn't buy any rotors as they looked good through the wheel, and it was Sunday afternoon...
The pads were stuck in the caliper from rust swell, so parts of the inside of the rotor weren't swept clean. The rotors have near zero wear, so I gently chiseled, scraped/wire brushed the loose stuff off. The first couple days there was a big of grinding noise/roughness, and I did some light brake dragging get the rest of the rust off, and then the pads had resurfaced everything and they work normally, no pulsations or noises. Probably lose a bit of pad doing that, but that's fine as we get many years and miles out of pads normally.
 
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I would not pay for $91 OEM if Brembo is $40. But for people who insist OEM then $91 isn't too bad for 11 years 112k miles either. It is not like you have to do it every 2 years.
If you consider the price of a brake job at the dealer, which is what a lot of people do anyways, roughly $250 in OEM parts (disks + pads)doesn't sound that bad for the highest quality parts one can get. With aftermarket, even brand name, there is no telling what you're going to get and how long it will last.
 
I would not pay for $91 OEM if Brembo is $40. But for people who insist OEM then $91 isn't too bad for 11 years 112k miles either. It is not like you have to do it every 2 years.
I have rotors with well over 200k on them. Our odyssey which supposedly has bad brakes, had rotors so fine that I pad slapped and at 120k run like new.

I don’t race to red lights or do other stupid things that go against physics, so I tend to get tires and brakes to last much longer than expected.

Maybe that’s why I encountered this!! Underutilization of rear brakes!!

It looked the same back in September 2024. Guess I should have investigated it then…

IMG_5474.webp
 
OE rotors are $91 each.

Junk are $16.

“Better” like Brembo are $40 each, or Bosch for $30 each.

Rock auto has too many to choose.
Other than the finish, I think most of the aftermarket rotors are extremely similar. Some of them claim high carbon content but those are generally not available for Asian applications.
 
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