Sticking rear caliper 2012 CR-V

[hondb20]

Girlfriends CR-V had worn out brake pads this fall and I changed the pads/rotors. Fast forward to January/February and the pads were shot on the rear right (complained of squealing brakes). Lots of material left on the rear left. I tried to press the piston back in and it was way harder than normal so I figured the caliper must be the issue. Changed the caliper and rotor on the rear right and put fresh pads and bled the entire brake system.

I then started to keep a close eye on her car since she's oblivious to burning brakes. The brakes were still sticking and smelling burnt if I'd go for a ride. Did a bit of reading, and found that a bad brake line could act as a check valve. Car had 90 000KM but figured what the heck, ordered a new brake line from Rock Auto for ~15$ .

I took the caliper off the carrier, slide pins are perfect (Sylglide) and pads are moving without issues, and still have anti-seize. Put everything back together and bled the rear right. Just came back from a brief drive, and still smelling like burnt brakes. I can feel the heat difference and noticeable smell which isn't present sticking my nose near the other rims... Rotors are Centric Premiums, and posi-quiet ceramic pads.

What gives? Anybody got any ideas? Should I just bring the car to Honda?

 

[t1snwrbrdr12]

Did you rule out the hand brake cable?

 

[KneeGrinder]

Did you put a floor jack under that corner after your ride and rotate the wheel? With parking brake off of coarse.

 

[Warstud]

Maybe you need to shave off a bit of the pad ears.

 

[hondb20]

Originally Posted by t1snwrbrdr12
Did you rule out the hand brake cable?

The parking brake is a drum setup within the rotor so it wouldn't cause the pads to stick.

 

[hondb20]

Originally Posted by KneeGrinder
Did you put a floor jack under that corner after your ride and rotate the wheel? With parking brake off of coarse.


Yes, the wheel turns without much resistance which is what perplexes me.

 

[Driz]

Originally Posted by Warstud
Maybe you need to shave off a bit of the pad ears.



This is something I have noticed in recent years with aftermarket pads. Some are just too darned tight in the stainless clips. Some need a tad of careful grinding to allow them to float rather than bind.
The other thing living in the rust belt is calipers tend to start acting stupid post 100,000 miles / 7-8 years living in the slop. They're cheap from Rock auto so if I take one apart to fiddle with it when older I just toss on a new one and be done with it.

 

[maxdustington]

Originally Posted by Warstud
Maybe you need to shave off a bit of the pad ears.

Originally Posted by Driz
Originally Posted by Warstud
Maybe you need to shave off a bit of the pad ears.



This is something I have noticed in recent years with aftermarket pads. Some are just too darned tight in the stainless clips. Some need a tad of careful grinding to allow them to float rather than bind.
The other thing living in the rust belt is calipers tend to start acting stupid post 100,000 miles / 7-8 years living in the slop. They're cheap from Rock auto so if I take one apart to fiddle with it when older I just toss on a new one and be done with it.
OP should flip the pads to the other side to rule them out. I'm not sure how you would determine how much material to remove, and where.

It would make sense that the new pads got hot and cooked the old caliper. Now the same thing is happening to the new caliper.

 

[CharBaby]

I've learned something recently from Eric O. from South Main Auto(SMA). This could the the hydraulic brake line. There could be an inside kink in the line causing the brakes to stick(moreso) and not retract after the driver releases the brake pedal.

One way Eric O tested this was... try pressing the caliper piston back-in(do not open the bleeder screw YET). If the piston DOES NOT push in or does so with great difficulty, this brake line could be the issue.

If this ^^^ is the case, NOW try pushing in the caliper piston with the bleeder valve OPEN. The piston should push in easily and the issue could be the brake hose mentioned. It's not allowing the brakes to retract right away although the brakes may retract slowly while driving...and then stick again when the driver steps on the brake pedal.

IDK, give it a try and good luck,

CB

 

[supton]

I've found over the years that I have to strip down the pads, pop off the stainless bits, clean out all the rust. Sometimes it's just easier to remove the caliper bracket so as to really clean it! Then put a bit of grease on (to slow down rust) and then install the stainless bits.

Then install bracket, and do a test install of the pads without the caliper in the way. Do the pads slide freely? If not, look to see where it is binding. Hit that with a file. Should only need small amounts of metal removal. Step and repeat until the pads slide freely. Then put a bit of grease onto the pad ears (The Critic likes Honda M77 assembly paste, and I've found that works pretty good also) and finish the install.

*

Is this a separate parking brake (drum in rotor) or is it part of the caliper? I too wonder if the parking brake is hanging, as you've replaced both caliper and line. Then again, was this a dimestore caliper? I wonder if it was bad out of the box.