HPL PCMO 10w30

You must be willfully blind to countless discussions of poorly engineered, poorly built "known oil burner" and "known sludger" engines from a number of manufactures.

No oil can overcome a bad design. Ever.

My MIL's GM 3.8L Series II, one of the most reliable engines GM ever made, had religious 3k mile oil changes with API oil since she bought it new. At 130k miles, it was a sludged up oil burner consuming a quart every 1,500 miles. After a short change with HPL Engine Cleaner 30 and 2 short intervals of HPL PCMO, that had slowed to a quart every 5k miles.
 
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My MIL's GM 3.8L Series II, one of the most reliable engines GM ever made, had religious 3k mile oil changes with API oil since she bought it new. At 130k miles, it was a sludged up oil burner consuming a quart every 1,500 miles. After a short change with HPL Engine Cleaner 30 and 2 short intervals of HPL PCMO, that had slowed to a quart every 5k miles.
Dollar General API or Mobil 1 API? Big difference and quality variation in the API world.
 
My MIL's GM 3.8L Series II, one of the most reliable engines GM ever made, had religious 3k mile oil changes with API oil since she bought it new. At 130k miles, it was a sludged up oil burner consuming a quart every 1,500 miles. After a short change with HPL Engine Cleaner 30 and 2 short intervals of HPL PCMO, that had slowed to a quart every 5k miles.
That’s interesting. We had a regal with the same engine get passed down through the family, starting with my dad and ended up to my sister. My dad was less than diligent about servicing his cars and that 3.8 never used a drop. In fact, my dad gave it to my wife and I when we were just starting out and the sticker for the oil change was 7k over. I checked the oil, almost full, then changed it. My wife hated that car sounded much, but we were poor. It blew a radiator hose 11 miles from home on a 90 degree day and I just kept going, hoping it would blow. It sat in the side yard for 6 months until my sisters car blew up. I put a new hose on and filled it with fluid. It’s probably still running around somewhere.
 
After a short change with HPL Engine Cleaner 30 and 2 short intervals of HPL PCMO, that had slowed to a quart every 5k miles.
Even the ultra-magical, holy grail HPL could not fix that design.

For comparison, my little el-cheapo 2017 Ford Fiesta does not burn 1qt. in 10K miles, and that's running on Quaker State Conventional.
 
I am roughly 1500 miles into this OCI and I’ve noticed my oil temps have increased a few clicks. My operating temps prior to 10w30 were 189-199 max. Now it sits 208-212. Out of my 23 minute commute to work, I will get to 208 within 10 minutes of that drive. 0w20 would be breaking 190 as I park to walk in.

I have also noticed smoother transmission shifts, weather that be coming or going into stop signs/redlights. Unsure if this can be related.. Maybe it’s just placebo or something with the TCU finally learning my driving pattern?

I do know that increasing to 10w30 will produce more heat so that resonates but the better shifts?
 
I am roughly 1500 miles into this OCI and I’ve noticed my oil temps have increased a few clicks. My operating temps prior to 10w30 were 189-199 max. Now it sits 208-212. Out of my 23 minute commute to work, I will get to 208 within 10 minutes of that drive. 0w20 would be breaking 190 as I park to walk in.

I have also noticed smoother transmission shifts, weather that be coming or going into stop signs/redlights. Unsure if this can be related.. Maybe it’s just placebo or something with the TCU finally learning my driving pattern?

I do know that increasing to 10w30 will produce more heat so that resonates but the better shifts?
Is this compared to the same weather? It is getting hotter now (stating the obvious, I know).

Not sure about the transmission.
 
Even the ultra-magical, holy grail HPL could not fix that design.

For comparison, my little el-cheapo 2017 Ford Fiesta does not burn 1qt. in 10K miles, and that's running on Quaker State Conventional.
Many on here just cannot believe that on-time oil changes mean way more than what oil is going into it. As you said, oil will not fix bad engine design. Worn out engines usually cannot be revived by switching to some more expensive oil. Analyzing oil fill holes on the valve cover for varnish is not an appropriate indicator of engine cleanliness. Thin oil control rings that wear out quickly cannot be saved by more expensive oil. Not just talking about it being stuck (I wonder how much is this really a problem? who is disassembling these engines to verify such a thing?), but wear on the ring lands cannot be fixed by more expensive oil.

I wanted to bump this a bit to give you some validation as I noticed on BITOG people just pretend to not hear you. I hear you. I agree.
 
Many on here just cannot believe that on-time oil changes mean way more than what oil is going into it. As you said, oil will not fix bad engine design. Worn out engines usually cannot be revived by switching to some more expensive oil. Analyzing oil fill holes on the valve cover for varnish is not an appropriate indicator of engine cleanliness. Thin oil control rings that wear out quickly cannot be saved by more expensive oil. Not just talking about it being stuck (I wonder how much is this really a problem? who is disassembling these engines to verify such a thing?), but wear on the ring lands cannot be fixed by more expensive oil.

I wanted to bump this a bit to give you some validation as I noticed on BITOG people just pretend to not hear you. I hear you. I agree.
Thank you, thank you, and Thank you! I have a really thick skin, nothing bothers me, but I can only laugh sometimes about some responses I inevitably get. I truly believe that if I stated "water is wet" someone here, maybe several people, would immediately try to refute that statement, LOL.
 
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