HPL PCMO 10w30

I am curious to know why you think this?
"Alright, I sipped too much HPL Kool-Aid..."

Because ANY mainstream, current, API oil even close to the mfg. recommended viscosity will take your car longer than you want to own it.

The boutique oils and the garden variety oils you buy off the WalMart shelf are both more than you need.

An obsession about nothing. Only on BITOG.
 
Because ANY mainstream, current, API oil even close to the mfg. recommended viscosity will take your car longer than you want to own it.

The boutique oils and the garden variety oils you buy off the WalMart shelf are both more than you need
I don’t necessarily disagree here. But I would argue that the interval that you change the oil here is key, as well as application.

Kirkland running OLM is not going to what HPL does at OLM.
 
I am curious to know why you think this?
My comment was aimed at the obsession of getting every drop of old oil out during an oil change. I'ts never going to happen and it doesn't matter. A typical oil change and, maybe, a half cup of old oil? Really?

Run through an OCI of HPL and test after the second OCI. And if your vehicle has 7K on it. as I think you said, the oil analysis is going to be skewed until after break in.
 
You must be willfully blind to the countless stories of oil burning here despite on time oil changes with good synthetic oil.
You must be willfully blind to countless discussions of poorly engineered, poorly built "known oil burner" and "known sludger" engines from a number of manufactures.

No oil can overcome a bad design. Ever.
 
No oil can overcome a bad design. Ever.
This is just not true. And this is always the response when an engine doesn't do well on "muh trusty Mobil 1 Extended Performance." Then people run Euro oils, Valvoline Restore and Protect, or a boutique and have no issues on these "known oil burner" "known sludger" engines.
 
This is just not true. And this is always the response when an engine doesn't do well on "muh trusty Mobil 1 Extended Performance." Then people run Euro oils, Valvoline Restore and Protect, or a boutique and have no issues on these "known oil burner" "known sludger" engines.
That could be true in a few cases, but definitely not all. If an engine was engineered wrong, no oil can fix it.
 
Update to the first 500 miles of my round trip from ATL to Orlando, Fl.
IMG_4068.webp


The truck started without issue this morning (not surprising with ambient temps around 60°F) and was noticeably quieter at startup than before, when I would occasionally hear some valvetrain noise.

During the high idle on cold start, oil pressure was around 60+ PSI (0w20 would fire right up at 30ish and float down) but quickly dropped to the 24–26 PSI range once the cats warmed up. That’s slightly higher than what I was seeing with 0W-20, which was typically around 21–23 PSI at idle.

Oil temps held around 208°F while cruising at highway speeds and peaked at about 210°F. The truck didn’t feel sluggish at all, and I actually thought I could hear the turbos a bit more. Not sure if that’s real or just me paying closer attention after the oil change.
 
I’ve used a decent amount of it and I guess I have no regrets. The ppcmo 0w20 was excellent at low temps, as far as start up rattle. The car sounded as if it was warmed up at 10 degrees. Huge plus! I’ve since settled on HPS and recently acquired XPR for 30% less than hpl and shipped from Amazon for free, and on my step in 1 day. The purple haters will side eye my choice, and that’s fine. Hpl is to much of a hassle with the shipping charges and only sold in amounts that leave me with half bottles/jugs of oil and nowhere to use it. I also deal with fuel dilution from cold temps 5 months a year, so running it 20k is never an option for me.
 
Update to the first 500 miles of my round trip from ATL to Orlando, Fl.
View attachment 327816

The truck started without issue this morning (not surprising with ambient temps around 60°F) and was noticeably quieter at startup than before, when I would occasionally hear some valvetrain noise.

During the high idle on cold start, oil pressure was around 60+ PSI (0w20 would fire right up at 30ish and float down) but quickly dropped to the 24–26 PSI range once the cats warmed up. That’s slightly higher than what I was seeing with 0W-20, which was typically around 21–23 PSI at idle.

Oil temps held around 208°F while cruising at highway speeds and peaked at about 210°F. The truck didn’t feel sluggish at all, and I actually thought I could hear the turbos a bit more. Not sure if that’s real or just me paying closer attention after the oil change.
Are you saying at that temp you had 30 psi more oil pressure?
 
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