A lot of obsession about nothing. Only on BITOG.
A lot of obsession about nothing. Only on BITOG.
THIS ^^^
"Alright, I sipped too much HPL Kool-Aid..."I am curious to know why you think this?
I'm strongly doubtful about that.ANY mainstream, current, API oil even close to the mfg. recommended viscosity will take your car longer than you want to own it
I don’t necessarily disagree here. But I would argue that the interval that you change the oil here is key, as well as application.Because ANY mainstream, current, API oil even close to the mfg. recommended viscosity will take your car longer than you want to own it.
The boutique oils and the garden variety oils you buy off the WalMart shelf are both more than you need
My comment was aimed at the obsession of getting every drop of old oil out during an oil change. I'ts never going to happen and it doesn't matter. A typical oil change and, maybe, a half cup of old oil? Really?I am curious to know why you think this?
well, it's not only on BITOG, it's just concentrated here. Where else online do people gather in such numbers to obsess over the tiniest, least significant differences in oil?A lot of obsession about nothing. Only on BITOG.
Your car doesn't feel windchill. Only humans/animals do.I’m scared of the windchill factor!!
You must be willfully blind to the countless stories of oil burning here despite on time oil changes with good synthetic oil.Because ANY mainstream, current, API oil even close to the mfg. recommended viscosity will take your car longer than you want to own it.
Was satire, given theYour car doesn't feel windchill. Only humans/animals do.
You must be willfully blind to countless discussions of poorly engineered, poorly built "known oil burner" and "known sludger" engines from a number of manufactures.You must be willfully blind to the countless stories of oil burning here despite on time oil changes with good synthetic oil.
This is just not true. And this is always the response when an engine doesn't do well on "muh trusty Mobil 1 Extended Performance." Then people run Euro oils, Valvoline Restore and Protect, or a boutique and have no issues on these "known oil burner" "known sludger" engines.No oil can overcome a bad design. Ever.
That could be true in a few cases, but definitely not all. If an engine was engineered wrong, no oil can fix it.This is just not true. And this is always the response when an engine doesn't do well on "muh trusty Mobil 1 Extended Performance." Then people run Euro oils, Valvoline Restore and Protect, or a boutique and have no issues on these "known oil burner" "known sludger" engines.
Are you saying at that temp you had 30 psi more oil pressure?Update to the first 500 miles of my round trip from ATL to Orlando, Fl.
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The truck started without issue this morning (not surprising with ambient temps around 60°F) and was noticeably quieter at startup than before, when I would occasionally hear some valvetrain noise.
During the high idle on cold start, oil pressure was around 60+ PSI (0w20 would fire right up at 30ish and float down) but quickly dropped to the 24–26 PSI range once the cats warmed up. That’s slightly higher than what I was seeing with 0W-20, which was typically around 21–23 PSI at idle.
Oil temps held around 208°F while cruising at highway speeds and peaked at about 210°F. The truck didn’t feel sluggish at all, and I actually thought I could hear the turbos a bit more. Not sure if that’s real or just me paying closer attention after the oil change.