HPL PCMO 10w30

Joined
Dec 8, 2025
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Location
Atlanta, GA
Alright, I sipped too much HPL Kool-Aid, and now I have purchased my first go-round for the new Ram. After a couple of conversations with @Hohn and a few weeks digging into the Threads, I have settled on using PCMO 10w30 (Sorry Hohn, I just couldn't pull myself to use 15w40). I am eager to get this in the truck, as I will have a lot of windshield time this month. Placed the order this morning and am hoping to receive it and get it in the truck before I leave for Orlando on the 10th.

A few questions:
  1. My truck has 7k miles on it currently, so I assume it has clean internals - when should I start thinking about swapping the filter? Should I let both run their course? I like Microgard Select (10K rating). Should I bump to one that has less efficiency and a higher(longer) rating, like Mobil 1 Extended Performance or CarQuest Extended Performance?
  2. There is no VOA for the 10w30 - I am curious about the oxidation levels. Are they going to be similar to the 5w30 that is currently in the VOA database?
  3. Does anyone have a 10w30 VOA before I send one in?
 
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Alright, I sipped too much HPL Kool-Aid, and now I have purchased my first go-round for the new Ram. After a couple of conversations with @Hohn and a few weeks digging into the Threads, I have settled on using PCMO 10w30 (Sorry Hohn, I just couldn't pull myself to use 15w40). I am eager to get this in the truck, as I will have a lot of windshield time this month. Placed the order this morning and am hoping to receive it and get it in the truck before I leave for Orlando on the 10th.

A few questions:
  1. My truck has 7k miles on it currently, so I assume it has clean internals - when should I start thinking about swapping the filter? Should I let both run their course? I like Microgard Select (10K rating). Should I bump to one that has less efficiency and a higher(longer) rating, like Mobil 1 Extended Performance or CarQuest Extended Performance?
  2. There is no VOA for the 10w30 - I am curious about the oxidation levels. Are they going to be similar to the 5w30 that is currently in the VOA database?
  3. Does anyone have a 10w30 VOA before I send one in?
No apologies required, you’re making your own, well-informed decisions.

The internals of your engine are certainly clean, but you’re probably still shedding wear metals at an elevated rate, so I’d be changing the filter whenever you change to the HPL.

I’m sure the 10w-30 probably has similar oxidation levels as the 5w-30, perhaps a bit less. Generally between 22 and 30. I have a theory (not born out just yet) that a thicker base oil (higher “w”) allows a bit more AN which increases solubility and reduces the need for esters as polarity enhancers. So in theory the higher Ws might have very slightly lower virgin oxidation levels BUT also oxidize a bit slower over time. (Note: only within the PCMO line).

We’d all owe you a debt of gratitude if you did grab a VOA for the 10w-30.
 
Flavor? We only refer to them by color, and that's red of course.
OK!
Nothing in the VOA would turn me off of my oil selection
OK!
I was asking before investing in the VOA!
Why would you ask for a VOA when you already made your selection? A VOA on this board is only useful if you will also provide a used oil analysis after using an oil to compare the VOA to the used oil analysis.
 
A VOA on this board is only useful if you will also provide a used oil analysis after using an oil to compare the VOA to the used oil analysis
Absolutely, I think we are on the same page here - I simply would lobby my used oil analysis to the already existing VOA if there was one. I think people here on the forum currently do this by the heavily funded database.
 
Highly recommend changing the filter to get as much of the existing oil out of the system. You're still going to have some carry-over, or as LSJr calls it, cross-pollination. No rush on the VOA, as the next oil change will still be a blend of the existing and HPL. The one after the next OCI will be where trend analysis begins its usefulness.
 
The internals of your engine are certainly clean, but you’re probably still shedding wear metals at an elevated rate, so I’d be changing the filter whenever you change to the HPL.
I have previous UOA at 1500, and 3500, Here, with Kirkland 0w20. Showed a pretty significant reduction on those wear metals.

I will for sure plan on getting the VOA at some point.

Highly recommend changing the filter to get as much of the existing oil out of the system. You're still going to have some carry-over, or as LSJr calls it, cross-pollination. No rush on the VOA, as the next oil change will still be a blend of the existing and HPL. The one after the next OCI will be where trend analysis begins its usefulness.
Great point here.. the first change will have residual from the 0w20. But I ask - if I were to just simply expend a quart and flush it through with the drain plug out would that help knock the pool on the bottom of the pan through? I have seen LSJr do this. Unsure if it has any effect since there are other turbo lines, etc in the engine.

So that leads me to question when you should genuinely start taking oil analysis? I had planned to take one every time I drain the oil for the heck of it but if I can allocate that money elsewhere I’m for it. Thoughts?
 
I have previous UOA at 1500, and 3500, Here, with Kirkland 0w20. Showed a pretty significant reduction on those wear metals.

I will for sure plan on getting the VOA at some point.


Great point here.. the first change will have residual from the 0w20. But I ask - if I were to just simply expend a quart and flush it through with the drain plug out would that help knock the pool on the bottom of the pan through? I have seen LSJr do this. Unsure if it has any effect since there are other turbo lines, etc in the engine.

So that leads me to question when you should genuinely start taking oil analysis? I had planned to take one every time I drain the oil for the heck of it but if I can allocate that money elsewhere I’m for it. Thoughts?
I do this also. It doesn’t much to ensure the drain oil runs clear.
 
Great point here.. the first change will have residual from the 0w20. But I ask - if I were to just simply expend a quart and flush it through with the drain plug out would that help knock the pool on the bottom of the pan through? I have seen LSJr do this. Unsure if it has any effect since there are other turbo lines, etc in the engine.

So that leads me to question when you should genuinely start taking oil analysis? I had planned to take one every time I drain the oil for the heck of it but if I can allocate that money elsewhere I’m for it. Thoughts?
I did this when I switched from Amsoil Signature Series to HPL Premium Plus PCMO and recorded the flush and posted it on YT. What came out looked like virgin oil from the first drop. I also did this one quart flush when I switched from OEM to Amsoil at 500 miles.

I've done a VOA on the Amsoil and HPL and used oil analysis at each OCI. There's no doubt there's still some residual oil on the first OCI after making a switch. From a purely technical standpoint, all these used oil analysis were not necessary. From an entertainment perspective, I feel like I'm getting my money's worth.
 
I think that my experience with flushing with fresh oil is that even half a quart is generally sufficient to get most of the residual out and get the drain oil to run clean.

There's only so much you can do to get residual oil out. It's not worth pouring lots of good oil down the drain in a misguided attempt so purge what can't be purged.


I donate oil changes through a local church and I often just use up some of my leftover oils as "flush" oils. I figure an internal residue of fresh Maxlife, for example, is no worse than whatever dirty mystery oil comprises the prior residue.

On my own vehicles, I tend not to mix chemistry when flushing and I'll generally use the same oil for flush that I intend to fill. But again, only a half quart or so is usually useful. You can dump more, but you aren't getting any more old oil out.
 
One thing that I would sometimes do when I was switching cars over to GC 0w-30 was to drain the oil and then put the drain plug back in, then put only 2L of fresh oil in there. I would then idle the engine for maybe 30 seconds and then drain it again. Crazy? Maybe! But it never seemed to hurt anything and it helped get a higher percentage of the new oil in there for that first interval (that way I could get a better idea of how the viscosity of GC was holding up if it wasn’t mixed with 10-15% of the previous oil) This method was known as the Patman flush 😃
 
f I were to just simply expend a quart and flush it through with the drain plug out would that help knock the pool on the bottom of the pan through?
No please don't do that and waste good oil. The remaining oil is caught up in the engine and won't be flushed out. Just run this and then send a used oil analysis after the next oil change.

I have seen LSJr do this.
That is a good reason to not do something, frankly.

I have previous used oil analysis at 1500, and 3500, Here, with Kirkland 0w20.
Link doesn't work.
 
One thing that I would sometimes do when I was switching cars over to GC 0w-30 was to drain the oil and then put the drain plug back in, then put only 2L of fresh oil in there. I would then idle the engine for maybe 30 seconds and then drain it again. Crazy? Maybe! But it never seemed to hurt anything and it helped get a higher percentage of the new oil in there for that first interval (that way I could get a better idea of how the viscosity of GC was holding up if it wasn’t mixed with 10-15% of the previous oil) This method was known as the Patman flush 😃
that's actually pretty smart if you have confidence you can keep the pickup tube submerged. Smart at least in terms of achieving utmost cleanliness. In terms of utmost economy, maybe not.
 
that's actually pretty smart if you have confidence you can keep the pickup tube submerged. Smart at least in terms of achieving utmost cleanliness. In terms of utmost economy, maybe not.
I wasted a few good bottles of GC back in the day by doing this, and they were about $6 or $7 a liter too 😬 I could have had a slightly bigger stash and gotten a couple of extra intervals before it ran out 😥
 
I wasted a few good bottles of GC back in the day by doing this, and they were about $6 or $7 a liter too 😬 I could have had a slightly bigger stash and gotten a couple of extra intervals before it ran out 😥
The GC times, these were the days. I recall them with pleasure.
 
IMG_4030.webp

Throwing it in this weekend👍
 
I have settled on using PCMO 10w30 (Sorry Hohn, I just couldn't pull myself to use 15w40).
https://weatherspark.com/y/15598/Average-Weather-in-Atlanta-Georgia-United-States-Year-Round
In Atlanta, the summers are hot and muggy; the winters are short, cold, and wet; and it is partly cloudy year round. Over the course of the year, the temperature typically varies from 35°F to 89°F and is rarely below 22°F or above 95°F.
Chicken! :D jk

From Kirkland to HPL - that's a big jump.
Congrats!
 
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