Why throw the oil away when the data shows it has plenty of life left? This oil isn't an off the shelf oil meant to compete on price. It doesn't behave like those oils. It's mean for extended drains, which it does exceedingly well. See my Durango 34k oil change.
Wearcheck suggests a condemnation oxidation value of 25. From my data, I believe the oxidation of HPL oils can be pushed further and I have, but 25 is a reasonable condemnation value if you aren't willing to push farther.
Original engine, 118,000 miles. Yes 1.8L
Do you mean 25 over virgin? so 45-50 range?
All kinds of driving, mostly 12mile runs to and from work. Plenty of full throttle accelerations, but only warmed up. Engine has spent most of its life on 5w30. A little 5w20 early on. I ran the 10w20 as it is almost a 30wt and did thicken.
14,000 miles, and Hyundai order writter guy said I might not get a warranty engine because of the Fram Ultra on it. 5 milliseconds after he said that, I said in a paraphrase "The Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act says you must uphold my warranty with any name brand oil filter that has the correct filter number for the car, and don't to pull that BS on me". He said we will still have to talk to Hyundai, I never heard another word about after that comment. If I remember right later that day I got a call from the service manager they were going to install a shortblock and I said I want a longblock because you wont be able to guarantee cleaning out all the aluminum debris from the heads passageways. He said he will do a longblock.
How do you know that? Do you know the starting oxidation number?
How do you get a 10W20 if you started with a base oil with a 20 winter rating?
It’s not oxidative thickening in this case; Dave has gone over this before in my thread on the No VII Euro 5w30 in my 3.5 Eco. The viscosity increase is essentially a work-hardening, as all base oils will thicken in use over time, even when there is no significant increase in oxidation. Oxidative thickening, IIRC the way Dave described, is rapid, significant increase in viscosity. Not from 9.0cSt to 11cSt in 10k miles, more like an increase from 9.0cSt to 20+cSt in a couple hundred miles. This series of oil, same as the CK-4 oil @wwillson uses, are truly incredible oils that defy what you’ve learned based of shelf stock oils. It’s legit.
You said a “straight 20W base oil”…. Thats not a 10w winter rating. I’m sure you probably meant a “20 grade base oil” but those descriptions aren’t referring to the same measurements.
wpod said:
For the sake of science, it would have been interesting to see if this sample would have still passed the cold cranking test for a 10W.
Why?
