HPL 0w-20 Premium PCMO, 10k mi; 2023 Toyota Highlander 2.5L Hybrid

[dkryan]

Out: HPL 0w-20 Premium PCMO/Fram Endurance 4967

In: HPL 0w-20 Premium Plus PCMO/Fram Endurance 4967

No make-up oil added during the OCI.

I’ve had this ride since new in March, 2023.

It’s had three oil changes in just under 22k miles:

1. OEM oil and filter until 2,315 miles
2. HPL 0w-20 Premium PCMO/Fram Ultra 4967 for 9,600 miles
3. HPL 0w-20 Premium PCMO/Fram Endurance for 9,980 miles

The oil sampled was run about 65% highway/35% city from mid-December ’23 until the end of July, so while garaged, it’s seen winter temps below freezing, a mild Spring, and summer temps in the low 90s.

This engine has both port and direct fuel injection.

The sample was taken after a twenty mile drive consisting of the first three miles stop and go, sixteen miles at highway speeds of at least 75 mph, and less than one mile of again, stop and go.

I do not know what the oil temp was at the time of sampling.

I will have another WearCheck UOA run after my second OCI with the current Premium Plus oil.

I’m using 0w-20 because I prefer an oil with an HTHS of at least 2.7.

Concerns (sort of):

Silicon- I’m going to attribute the listed number to being mostly assembly lube.
I’m guessing the oil itself would likely start with a silicon value of 6-9 ppm.

The air filter box has only been opened three times: at the dealership upon delivery to ensure the filter was installed correctly and the filter box was buttoned up properly.

The second time at 10k miles to check the filter. It looked good and there was nothing in the bottom of the filter box. Lastly, at 18.5k miles when I changed the filter.

After receiving this report, I went under the hood and re-checked the filter, box, and up and downstream from the box; no issues were found. We’ll see how the silicon value trends with the next UOA.

Fuel dilution - I was hoping for a value less than 2.0, but I don’t think I should worry too much about this reading. The oil on the dipstick never smelled like gasoline and the oil level never decreased nor increased. As per my comment above, I believe the oil was sufficiently hot enough to negate any fuel dilution issue with having run the engine just before the oil change.

There is a VOA of the HPL premium plus 0w-20 where BITOGer @hawkdriver commented: “…. Just a heads up, if you're not aware, virgin HPL Prem Plus will show a .5 or .6% fuel dilution when tested by GC.”

https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/hpl-premium-plus-passenger-0w-20.385489/

I don’t know if that’s readily verifiable and if it applies to my sampled oil, premium pcmo.

In any event, as with the silicon value, we’ll see what the fuel dilution value is with the next UOA.

The cSt@100*C was shown as 8.3

 

[Pablo]

It looks good to me but seriously try a 0W-30

 

[Mewbs]

At 22,000 miles, the engine is still breaking in so wear metals are going to be elevated, for the mileage driven this doesn't look bad IMO. KV100 of 8.3 shows the oil is still in within 20 grade.

I'd probably jump a grade and use 0w-30 / 5w-30 would be a safety cushion against fuel dilution. Other than fuel, report looks solid.

 

[jtwrace]

It looks good to me but seriously try a 0W-30

That's why I run M1 0W-40 in mine.

 

[JavierH19]

Technically still in the break in phase though closer to the end where it should be decreasing. Honestly I'd bump to a 40 grade. It is a stated viscosity in the owners manual for that engine in other markets. No dealer will uoa it either. Keep using that endurance or similar.

 

[dkryan]

I have the Premium Plus 0w-20 in the crankcase plus two additional OCIs of this oil, having stocked up during last November’s CyberMonday sale.

As mentioned, I will run this oil for two separate 10k OCIs, sampling after the second run.

Hopefully, that UOA will give me some direction as to viscosity going forward. By then the powertrain warranty will be gone.

 

[The Critic]

Where are the viscosity and fuel dilution values?

Given how much this engine shuts off during city driving, even when cold, I really don't see a reason to use anything higher than the specified 0w-16. The newest versions of this engine are moving to a 0W-8. I don't see this engine oil getting very warm.

 

[dkryan]

The cSt@100*C was shown as 8.3.

It can be found on the second page of this report which I didn’t bother to post because it was the only thing on the second page worth mentioning.

Instead, I listed it in my narrative.

The fuel dilution value is listed on the posted report under “Contaminents.”
It shows a value of 2.9

 

[DirectRejection]

Where are the viscosity and fuel dilution values?

Given how much this engine shuts off during city driving, even when cold, I really don't see a reason to use anything higher than the specified 0w-16. The newest versions of this engine are moving to a 0W-8. I don't see this engine oil getting very warm.

Yes they are.

 

[ChrisD46]

Does thd Highlander OM list other oil weights which are approved for use ?

 

[dkryan]

The owner’s manual shows 0w-16 as recommended and 0w-20 as being suitable for “high speed driving or towing.” Or something to that effect.

 

[The Critic]

The owner’s manual shows 0w-16 as recommended and 0w-20 as being suitable for “high speed driving or towing.” Or something to that effect.

It’s a moot point for this application. That is just a generic statement Toyota puts in every owners manual.

 

[dkryan]

Which is why I ignored it.

 

[RDY4WAR]

Like others have said, the report looks good, but I see no justification for a 0W-30. The KV100 is still 8.3, more viscous than the upper range of the 0W-16 the OEM calls for, despite 3% fuel. Wear metals are great for an engine likely still clearing the break-in period.

 

[OrdnanceMarine]

Where are the viscosity and fuel dilution values?

Given how much this engine shuts off during city driving, even when cold, I really don't see a reason to use anything higher than the specified 0w-16. The newest versions of this engine are moving to a 0W-8. I don't see this engine oil getting very warm.

What about extended highway usage and especially climbing long grades at max gross weight? When you get up to interstate speeds (75 MPH plus) you're really spending most of your fuel burn on boring a hole in the air and asking a 2.5 liter engine to do the same work that a 3.5 liter engine used to be doing so I'd actually expect the oil to run hotter than the older 3.5 liter non-hybrid counterparts. I'm pretty new to this powerplant (had our new Sienna since April) so I don't know if there's a separate oil cooler or if it's just depending on passing heat to the water as the means of getting it out of the system. Hybrids actually should have different heat issues than traditional engines as they are tasked with doing the same work as a regular engine with less run time and usually smaller displacement. There's a reason they dumb a bunch of moly in to the 0W-16's were seeing UOA's from. Now you could ask the question about whether a 0W-16 with moly is better than a 0W-20 without.

 

[Revving2Redline]

It looks good to me but seriously try a 0W-30

My thoughts exactly, Im sure that idea will cross paths with OP if after breaking in things dont look as promising as hoped. Is @Pablo Amsoil SS 0w30 still your most saught after for newer cars wanting better protection in the new sewing machine spec'd oil weights? I tried tons of M1 0w30 and it was stout but sheered quickly and thinned out in my application. Currently on M1 EP HM 5w30, got Amazon gift card and bought four jugs for my birthday.

 

[ATex7239]

What about extended highway usage and especially climbing long grades at max gross weight? When you get up to interstate speeds (75 MPH plus) you're really spending most of your fuel burn on boring a hole in the air and asking a 2.5 liter engine to do the same work that a 3.5 liter engine used to be doing so I'd actually expect the oil to run hotter than the older 3.5 liter non-hybrid counterparts. I'm pretty new to this powerplant (had our new Sienna since April) so I don't know if there's a separate oil cooler or if it's just depending on passing heat to the water as the means of getting it out of the system. Hybrids actually should have different heat issues than traditional engines as they are tasked with doing the same work as a regular engine with less run time and usually smaller displacement. There's a reason they dumb a bunch of moly in to the 0W-16's were seeing UOA's from. Now you could ask the question about whether a 0W-16 with moly is better than a 0W-20 without.

The hybrid design has electric motors to assist with power output so to say the ICE is expected to do the same amount of work as its non-hybrid predecessor is not entirely accurate.

The A25A is up to 40% thermal efficiency. Cooling is a big part of that among other things. Cooling system (w/ oil cooler) pictured below.

I’d think the engine design plays a much more significant role in the allowable use of 0W16 vs 0W20 than moly content would.


Cooling system

1 - water inlet with thermostat, 2 - water pump, 3 - throttle body, 4 - EGR valve, 5 - EGR cooler, 6 - water by-pass outlet, 7 - flow shutting valve (heater), 8 - flow shutting valve (ATF), 9 - oil cooler. a - from radiator, b - to radiator, c - from heater, d - to heater, e - from transmission oil cooler, f - to transmission oil cooler.​

A fundamentally new cooling system for Toyota - with an electric pump, electric thermostat and shut-off valves.

1 - radiator, 2 - reserve tank, 3 - water inlet with thermostat, 4 - water pump, 5 - cylinder block, 6 - cylinder head, 7 - EGR cooler, 8 - EGR valve, 9 - throttle body, 10 - flow shutting valve (heater), 11 - heater radiator, 12 - transmission oil cooler, 13 - flow shutting valve (ATF), 14 - oil cooler. a - upper water jacket, b - lower water jacket, c - sub-jacket, d - passage​

The electric pump allows you to adjust the coolant flow at the discretion of ECM.

1 - water pump. b - stator, c - rotor, d - shaft​

The accelerated warm-up function provides the fastest reaching of economical operation modes and is performed by two shut-off valves that can exclude the heater and the transmission oil cooler from the circulation.

1 - engine, 2 - flow shutting valve (heater) (closed), 3 - flow shutting valve (ATF) (closed), 4 - heater radiator, 5 - transmission oil cooler, 6 - water pump, 7 - water inlet with thermostat, 8 - radiator, 9 - flow shutting valve (heater) (open), 10 - flow shutting valve (ATF) (open). a - early warm-up, b - heater priority, c - output enhancement, d - max cool, e - when current is not applied to the thermostat with heater, coolant flow volume is increased, thus output is enhanced. additionally, applying current to the thermostat with heater decreases thermostat opening temperature, ensuring cooler efficiency, f - this discontinues coolant flow of the heater radiator unit sub-assembly, ensuring cooler efficiency, g - EGR cooler.​

When the current is applied, the valve is held in the closed position. If the current is not applied and the pump is running, the valve opens under the force of the coolant flow and remains open until the flow stops.

1 - housing, 2 - spring, 3 - valve, 4 - core, 5 - coil, 6 - yoke​

The nominal temperature of the thermostat opening is 80-84°C - so the new engines in Toyota's best traditions remained "cold", keeping this great advantage over the "hot" engines of the European makers.

The current supply to the thermostat heater allows to increase its opening under significant load conditions, lowering the temperature in advance and providing higher power output without the risk of detonation.

1 - heater, 2 - wax​

The engines are equipped with separate fan motor control unit, which allows to adjust fan speed depending on the coolant temperature, refrigerant pressure, vehicle speed and engine speed. The fan - single, large diameter.

1 - radiator cap, 2 - fan shroud, 3 - cooling fan motor, 4 - fan, 5 - drain plug​

Integrated control of the thermostat, water pump, valves and fan motor provides improved warm-up, reduced friction losses and better fuel economy.

a - no circulation (starting calibration), b - restricted flow rate, c - normal flow rate, d - combustion chamber wall temperature control, e - flow rate for minimum piston slap, f - flow rate (10° temperature difference between engine inlet and outlet), g - normal flow rate (after thermostat open depending on the load), h - cooling fan ON temperature varies (depending on the driving conditions)​

https://toyota-club.net/files/faq/18-03-20_faq_df_r4_eng.htm#A25A-FKS

 

[ATex7239]

Seems like the HPL 0W20 is working for you.

Our previous Toyota hybrid also diluted. But it didn’t present any known issues. I’d be plenty happy with 8.3 KV100. Also btw the silicon always stayed around 23 for me. I think it is just the way that engine is.

 

[dkryan]

Seems like the HPL 0W20 is working for you.

Our previous Toyota hybrid also diluted. But it didn’t present any known issues. I’d be plenty happy with 8.3 KV100. Also btw the silicon always stayed around 23 for me. I think it is just the way that engine is.

Yep!

The only thing I could have asked for (or wanted) was a lower fuel dilution value, but with the 8.3 KV100, the oil did its job through a winter, Spring, and into the summer.

No complaints and I suspect the silicon will, indeed, trend downward with the next UOA.

As I’m running 0w-20 premium plus pcmo for a 10k mile run, plus I have two additional OCIs with the same oil, it will be a while before I consider using a x-w30 oil.

 

[Titan]

Isn't Silicon used as an anti-foaming agent? Perhaps this is simply a characteristic of the oil itself. I'm sure there is a VOA on that oil on this site that could be checked.