I saw that exhaust leak was a possible cause but misread the year of the OP's car.. a 10 year old car could indeed have a rotting exhaust.That code refers to the Bank 1/Sensor 2 - the one behind your catalytic converter. The code is for the sensor stuck lean which can be either a bad sensor or an exhaust leak. I am not parts cannon guy but in this case, an o2 sensor is cheap and easy to replace - do that and look for exhaust leaks while down there.
Says the man from NE Ohio.a 10 year old car could indeed have a rotting exhaust.
Salt belt no less.. way more salt than lower in the state. Sometimes in the winter its like driving on gravel....Says the man from NE Ohio.
What's the climate where the OP located?
Im in southeast Michigan. It’s a 2015. I will inspect the exhaust and report back.Let me run with this one.
Assuming no rotted-through exhaust, we've likely a bad sensor as described.
Q: Is this Fusion old enough and/or is the expected quality of parts low enough for this vehicle to prudently qualify for replacement of all its sensors?
What is a good source for these o2 sensors? Amazon, rock auto, local store? Does brand matter?I'd say you start with replacing the O2 sensor. Parts cannon pretty cheap for that specific a problem.
Use OEM sensor recommended.
I personally only use OEM O2 sensors because some vehicles do not work well with aftermarket ones. I usually use Rockauto and sometimes Amazon, but Amazon can have counterfeit parts, so you have to be careful.What is a good source for these o2 sensors? Amazon, rock auto, local store? Does brand matter?
Also any tips on locating the o2 sensor on my specific vehicle? Thanks
Makes sense. Rockauto price for motorcraft (OEM o2 sensor) is about $85-91. Does that sound right?I personally only use OEM O2 sensors because some vehicles do not work well with aftermarket ones. I usually use Rockauto and sometimes Amazon, but Amazon can have counterfeit parts, so you have to be careful.
Thanks. The one other question I have is how do I know if the sensor that is triggering the fault is occurring upstream or downstream? It appears the scan tool doesn’t specify.That is probably about right on price. Probably higher if you buy local at the parts store or dealer.
The code specifies. Sensor 2 is behind the cat. Always Google your codes to verify what they mean exactly, and a step-by-step of diagnosis guidance. And don't start at replacing parts, start with checking stuff like wiring, or for intake/exhaust leaks first. We like free.Thanks. The one other question I have is how do I know if the sensor that is triggering the fault is occurring upstream or downstream? It appears the scan tool doesn’t specify.
That makes sense. So this would be the downstream sensor correct? And agreed on doing inspection first.The code specifies. Sensor 2 is behind the cat. Always Google your codes to verify what they mean exactly, and a step-by-step of diagnosis guidance. And don't start at replacing parts, start with checking stuff like wiring, or for intake/exhaust leaks first. We like free.
https://www.kbb.com/obd-ii/p2270/
My 17 year old Accent used for driving in winter salt still has the OE exhaust at 190xxx miles. The cast iron manifold and cat has been replaced though.Says the man from NE Ohio.
What's the climate where the OP located?
Yes, that's correct.That makes sense. So this would be the downstream sensor correct? And agreed on doing inspection first.
So...it still has the OE exhaust except for the parts of it that have been replaced, then?My 17 year old Accent used for driving in winter salt still has the OE exhaust at 190xxx miles. The cast iron manifold and cat has been replaced though.
It's getting pretty rusty. They put on a cheap fender a few years ago and it didn't have any paint on the inside. Rusted out in 5 years. Front suspension has all been replaced, well there's no need to go through the list....So...it still has the OE exhaust except for the parts of it that have been replaced, then?![]()