and use some anti-seize on the bolts.Best practice is to RTFM and use a torque wrench.
and use some anti-seize on the bolts.Best practice is to RTFM and use a torque wrench.
Exactly. So, while I use the manufacturer torque spec for parts like brake caliper bolts (and some manufacturers require their replacement each use) I do like knowing about what the bolt can handle, and if I can’t find a torque spec, I at least have a starting point for critical applications.No one brought that up (someone else brought up bolt head size and it went from there) and while those grade values have a meaning, the manufacturer comes up with the actual torque spec. Those grades determine the maximum torque that that fastener is rated for, not the torque for the application it's used on (though it won't or can't exceed that max value).
Not on brake caliper bolts. Loctite. Blue Loctite.and use some anti-seize on the bolts.
In theory, yes. Probably an excellent choice in VA.Not on brake caliper bolts. Loctite. Blue Loctite.
Not in theory.In theory, yes. Probably an excellent choice in VA.
In practice, up here, a dab of antisieze will go a long way. No, the caliper won't fall off.
I know, I know.Not in theory.
Manufacturer requirement.
Loctite has an effect that is similar to Anti-Seize. The threads get sealed and this prevents corrosion.Not on brake caliper bolts. Loctite. Blue Loctite.
Actually they do fall off. Some applications really do need the threadlocker or else you risk the caliper bracket bolts backing out.Truth is that this is an age-old discussion because neither side of the table has had a caliper fall off!
Until it breaks and you need to buy a new one. ON the internet everyone seems to use the socket size to describe the bolt. As anyone working in design or manufacturing, you know enough to describe it the way you say, along with the head style. i.e. Hex head cap screw or SHCS, FLCS etc. As a designer you need to have some awareness of the head size so as you do not have interference issues and a common tool can be used on it. Most companies have part numbers for all of their hardware. This way the BOM is clear and your assembly people are using the correct grade/class. Been there done that. Just saying.Know what you mean, but honestly, it really depends on the use-case.... In my previous life as a mechanical designer, yeah, I would put threaded holes in a part and spec it as "M8-1.25" and the BOM would say "M8-1.25 x 50". The CAD software would insert the fastener to the correct scale/size and I didn't need to know the head size (beyond making sure it fit).
When you're doing a brake job, you use a 17mm socket or wrench to remove the bracket fasteners and like above, you don't care that the fastener is M10-1.5.
Probably a good choice. I would suggest bringing a large box of pastries for the shop.Quick update here, I received my reverse easy outs drillbits etc. and attempted to remove a stuck rotor screw to get the feel of it, and well no dice. The easy off broke within seconds inside of the drilled out rotor screw that I spent another hour trying to drill that out and finally gave up put everything back in the box cleaned up and called it a day.
to be honest I don’t think I should be tackling this brake caliper bracket bolt as a first time experience.
I’m having the brake fluid & clutch fluid flushed at the dealer, I’m going to ask if they can just do it lol.
Oi vey.... never use EZ Outs for this exact reason. I guess you learned the hard way so you can remember now.Quick update here, I received my reverse easy outs drillbits etc. and attempted to remove a stuck rotor screw to get the feel of it, and well no dice. The easy off broke within seconds inside of the drilled out rotor screw that I spent another hour trying to drill that out and finally gave up put everything back in the box cleaned up and called it a day.
to be honest I don’t think I should be tackling this brake caliper bracket bolt as a first time experience.
I’m having the brake fluid & clutch fluid flushed at the dealer, I’m going to ask if they can just do it lol.
If it's drivable, I'd go to a shop. But tell them about the broken easy out. The problem with those, are- they sometimes wedge in tight making it harder to back out the bolt. I have some of those but rarely use them. You have to have most of the meat of the bolt drilled out.Quick update here, I received my reverse easy outs drillbits etc. and attempted to remove a stuck rotor screw to get the feel of it, and well no dice. The easy off broke within seconds inside of the drilled out rotor screw that I spent another hour trying to drill that out and finally gave up put everything back in the box cleaned up and called it a day.
to be honest I don’t think I should be tackling this brake caliper bracket bolt as a first time experience.
I’m having the brake fluid & clutch fluid flushed at the dealer, I’m going to ask if they can just do it lol.