and use some anti-seize on the bolts.
How to remove broken caliper bracket bolt?
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It is a caliper bracket bolt, right? It goes through the knuckle and threads into the bracket?
Can't you take the caliper off of the bracket, remove the other bracket bolt, and slide the rotor/bracket off together? Then you can either work with the bracket on the bench or just replace it.
Can't you take the caliper off of the bracket, remove the other bracket bolt, and slide the rotor/bracket off together? Then you can either work with the bracket on the bench or just replace it.
Exactly. So, while I use the manufacturer torque spec for parts like brake caliper bolts (and some manufacturers require their replacement each use) I do like knowing about what the bolt can handle, and if I can’t find a torque spec, I at least have a starting point for critical applications.
Not on brake caliper bolts. Loctite. Blue Loctite.
In theory, yes. Probably an excellent choice in VA.
In practice, up here, a dab of antisieze will go a long way. No, the caliper won't fall off.
Not in theory.
Manufacturer requirement.
I live close to salt water. I used to live in Connecticut, and Vermont. I’m very familiar with rust. Still deal with the effects of salt water often, due to coastal flooding.
I take brakes seriously, and follow the requirements, not convenience.
Never had a problem with brake bolts corroding to the point of not being removable. I do use pure zinc primer for corrosion prevention on bolts, like wheel bolts, that are exposed to salt water.
No lubrication, like antiseize, so no torque change required, but good corrosion prevention.
I know, I know.
Many times, manufacturer requirement is also a lot of theory. Lots of insurance.
Truth is that this is an age-old discussion because neither side of the table has had a caliper fall off!
If that bugs you, you'll hate to know that I also put a dab of grease, antisieze, something on lugs. I know, against manufacturer's specfications! However, I'm more afraid of my family stuck on the side of the road unable to get a spare tire on than I am the lugs coming loose and the wheel flying off!
Loctite has an effect that is similar to Anti-Seize. The threads get sealed and this prevents corrosion.
Actually they do fall off. Some applications really do need the threadlocker or else you risk the caliper bracket bolts backing out.
Until it breaks and you need to buy a new one. ON the internet everyone seems to use the socket size to describe the bolt. As anyone working in design or manufacturing, you know enough to describe it the way you say, along with the head style. i.e. Hex head cap screw or SHCS, FLCS etc. As a designer you need to have some awareness of the head size so as you do not have interference issues and a common tool can be used on it. Most companies have part numbers for all of their hardware. This way the BOM is clear and your assembly people are using the correct grade/class. Been there done that. Just saying.
CleanSump
Site Donor 2022
Well, for wrenching in the driveway/garage or doing stuff around the house, I ask my little helpers for a 13 mm or 1/2 inch, not the wrench that fits what BMW or Pfister chose for a head on M10 x 1.5 x30 mm bolts.
If I'm buying one, I do use the proper thread, length, shank length, head type, material, and grade.
If I'm buying one, I do use the proper thread, length, shank length, head type, material, and grade.
Quick update here, I received my reverse easy outs drillbits etc. and attempted to remove a stuck rotor screw to get the feel of it, and well no dice. The easy off broke within seconds inside of the drilled out rotor screw 
that I spent another hour trying to drill that out and finally gave up put everything back in the box cleaned up and called it a day.
to be honest I don’t think I should be tackling this brake caliper bracket bolt as a first time experience.
I’m having the brake fluid & clutch fluid flushed at the dealer, I’m going to ask if they can just do it lol.
that I spent another hour trying to drill that out and finally gave up put everything back in the box cleaned up and called it a day.to be honest I don’t think I should be tackling this brake caliper bracket bolt as a first time experience.
I’m having the brake fluid & clutch fluid flushed at the dealer, I’m going to ask if they can just do it lol.
Might have to try to weld a nut on there (if there is room) or get a junk yard or new knuckle as a replacement
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Probably a good choice. I would suggest bringing a large box of pastries for the shop.Quick update here, I received my reverse easy outs drillbits etc. and attempted to remove a stuck rotor screw to get the feel of it, and well no dice. The easy off broke within seconds inside of the drilled out rotor screw
to be honest I don’t think I should be tackling this brake caliper bracket bolt as a first time experience.
I’m having the brake fluid & clutch fluid flushed at the dealer, I’m going to ask if they can just do it lol.
Sam_Julier
$50 Site Donor 2024
Per the Volvo manual I use new OE caliper bolts when replacing rotors and pads on the 240s and previous V70s.
The OE bolts are reasonably priced and have blue thread lock.
I’ve never had an issue removing a bolt.
The OE bolts are reasonably priced and have blue thread lock.
I’ve never had an issue removing a bolt.
Oi vey.... never use EZ Outs for this exact reason. I guess you learned the hard way so you can remember now.Quick update here, I received my reverse easy outs drillbits etc. and attempted to remove a stuck rotor screw to get the feel of it, and well no dice. The easy off broke within seconds inside of the drilled out rotor screw
to be honest I don’t think I should be tackling this brake caliper bracket bolt as a first time experience.
I’m having the brake fluid & clutch fluid flushed at the dealer, I’m going to ask if they can just do it lol.
Start drilling w LH bits and just keep drilling with LH bits. You can step up in size a time or two, but just how concentric you are will dictate how large you can go.
Now that you have a broken EZ Out in there it just went from minor challenge to megaPITA
I obviously haven't seen what you're looking at but it's probably time to consider JY parts or if you can remove the knuckle and get it to an experienced welder or machine shop they might be able to help.
Is this a thru hole? Can someone come at it from the other side?
If it's drivable, I'd go to a shop. But tell them about the broken easy out. The problem with those, are- they sometimes wedge in tight making it harder to back out the bolt. I have some of those but rarely use them. You have to have most of the meat of the bolt drilled out.Quick update here, I received my reverse easy outs drillbits etc. and attempted to remove a stuck rotor screw to get the feel of it, and well no dice. The easy off broke within seconds inside of the drilled out rotor screw
to be honest I don’t think I should be tackling this brake caliper bracket bolt as a first time experience.
I’m having the brake fluid & clutch fluid flushed at the dealer, I’m going to ask if they can just do it lol.
They will snap without warning, you will not feel it start to give. If I use an extractor now, I use long fluted square ones, not spiral.
They are usually carbide, so you are not going to be able to drill that out. A pic would help, but probably need a welder.
You need an Elox to drill easy outs out if you cant weld onto it.
So to clear up my response,
I did not even attempt messing with the rear caliper bracket bolt, because I failed so quickly at the front brake rotor screws… the basic philips type screws that hold the front rotor to the hub… both of them broke 2 on each front rotor when trying them to remove the rotor.. The fronts were black philips rotor screws (maybe black oxide) not the stainless steel OEM ones. The rears were OEM stainless and came right out.
so I thought my easy out would shine here.. and well it didn’t
and I am thoroughly discouraged from ever using another one again….
I skipped even trying to rear caliper bracket bolt because I don’t want to make it harder for the tech to remove if I can’t get it. At this point it’s not worth the risk and I’ll let the “pro” handle it.
EDIT:
The car at this current point is completely drivable and everything is tight, including the rear caliper bracket bolt that’s broken, I just can’t remove it myself.
So I’m gonna drive it right to the shop have the brake and clutch fluid flushed and that bolt extracted and replaced…
I did not even attempt messing with the rear caliper bracket bolt, because I failed so quickly at the front brake rotor screws… the basic philips type screws that hold the front rotor to the hub… both of them broke 2 on each front rotor when trying them to remove the rotor.. The fronts were black philips rotor screws (maybe black oxide) not the stainless steel OEM ones. The rears were OEM stainless and came right out.
so I thought my easy out would shine here.. and well it didn’t
and I am thoroughly discouraged from ever using another one again….I skipped even trying to rear caliper bracket bolt because I don’t want to make it harder for the tech to remove if I can’t get it. At this point it’s not worth the risk and I’ll let the “pro” handle it.
EDIT:
The car at this current point is completely drivable and everything is tight, including the rear caliper bracket bolt that’s broken, I just can’t remove it myself.
So I’m gonna drive it right to the shop
have the brake and clutch fluid flushed and that bolt extracted and replaced…
Last edited:
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