How to get fitting loose?

[wallyuwl]

This is water related so I put it here.

The sillcock (outside faucet) is leaking from the valve. Below is a pic of how it is connected to the plumbing in the basement (sillcock is silver). It has threads on the outside (OD) but looks like it is connected on the inside (ID). It is secured on the outside of the house with two screws in the siding. I would prefer not to hire a plumber for this but am cautious of breaking something with plumbing.

Thoughts on how to disconnect and then reconnect a new one (presumably needing to reinstall the new one the same way)?

 

[CarLuver]

torn off the water to it and open it and let it drain. then heat it up till the solder melts and it should slide right off. when reinstalling you have the option of reinstalling the original way or soldering a female fitting so you can just screw it back in

 

[JavierH19]

What the first guy said just turn the water off and open something up to drain it and just use a torch ot heat the solder up.

 

[Snagglefoot]

This is a pretty standard setup. I take it we are looking up from below. Before you get to work, try pick up a new valve seat for the outside valve. Close the inside valve and take apart the outside valve. It should have replaceable parts.

 

[clinebarger]

From the looks....I'm NOT a plumber, But play one at home, The faucet extension is Soldered in & they didn't use the 1/2" NPT connection.

One solution is to cut the faucet off at the extension & Sweat on a 1/2" Female Copper Solder x 1/2" Female NPT Adaptor, Least you won't need to Sweat a connection next time.

 

[wallyuwl]

Thanks all. I typically don't deal with copper. I will use a torch and wiggle it off. I couldn't find a repair kit for this type, but they are pretty crappy sillcocks anyway so no harm replacing. I did see where it could be the packing nut is loose so may try tightening that first.

In looking around a bit found that most companies make push fit sillcocks. Or I could use a sharkbite with female threads on one side.

But for now considering this.

https://www.menards.com/main/plumbi...phon-wall-hydrant/483-12m/p-1501569270407.htm

 

[Gyro Gearloose]

IF you are intent on replacing the valve look for a Woodard brand valve. They haven't changed the insides of the valves in 20 years and next time it needs service you can just replace the inside parts.. My faucet stripped the threads and I broke down and called a plumber thinking he would have to go under the house and crawl 50 feet through a 2 foot high crawl space to solder in a new valve. Since my faucet was a Woodard he unscrewed the the handle part from outside the house and took the insides out of a new valve and put it all back together without having to do anything to the housing. An piece of cake job for him and an expensive lesson for me.

 

[clinebarger]

I don't trust sharkbite style connections, Looks like your house has sweated copper pipe.....Need to get over having to sweat some connections.

 

[Schandyman]

That's a frost free sillcock, un-soldering is best just remember when soldering up the new one remove the internals... that's where you'll be applying heat to solder in that area are the mechanics of the valve that does the sealing.

 

[Gyro Gearloose]

Oops my bad on the brand name. Its Woodford. Couldn't see it clearly upside down in the dark.

 

[PimTac]

Dittos on all the suggestions and to add, if that valve is hard to turn you can face it down or sideways on the reinstall.

And also, the caution about using a torch near wood should be included.

 

[Fitter30]

Valve needs to have a outward slope to drain and not trap any water. Doesn't need much slope.

 

[doitmyself]

Can you show us a picture of the outside valve? I'm in denial that you cannot replace the valve washer and/or the stem packing.

 

[Schandyman]

Dittos on all the suggestions and to add, if that valve is hard to turn you can face it down or sideways on the reinstall.

And also, the caution about using a torch near wood should be included.

Spray bottle with water mist the wood down prior to soldering

 

[Schandyman]

Can you show us a picture of the outside valve? I'm in denial that you cannot replace the valve washer and/or the stem packing.

If it’s a name brand there’s normally rebuild kits available. The packing nut is reverse thread to get the stem out usually “righty loosie” I forget there’s a way to indicate YouTube and google will help distinguish that. The packing nut color might be different color. Tan or white?

 

[JohnnyG]

Why do you want to replace it? Just fix it.

 

[JMJNet]

Why do you want to replace it? Just fix it.

I agree. Unless, the pipe burst or have catastrophic failure.
Usually, you need to take out the handle.
Then you can use a large socket and wrench to unscrew the inside of the silcock and take it out.
Bring it to a plumbing supply shop (may be HD or Lowes have them, with about 10% chance).
They can sell you the replacement and give you pointer on how to install it.

 

[DuckRyder]

I’m not a plumber either but I’d sweat a copper NPT fitting on it an put a wolford in if I couldn’t fix it - Home Depot usually has them, have something to grab onto to break your fall when you look at the price. Also you need to know how long it is of course.

 

[wallyuwl]

I tried taking off the handle but it wouldn't come off. But with the valve open it exposed the packing nut. Not sure if the handle/stem comes off by loosening the packing nut all the way? I tightened the nut and now it doesn't leak. Still squeaks a ton (both on the house do) but no leaks. Below I linked the type of sillcock. Pretty sure there is no rebuild kit, but would install it if anyone knows of one. Also pretty sure they are original to the house (2003).

I looked up sweating copper and doesn't look too difficult. I have been soldering speaker wire, diodes, etc for 25 years. Would rather just not deal with it, though, so when the time comes will figure out what type of fitting/connection to use.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/AMERICAN-VALVE-12-in-Frost-Proof-Anti-Siphon-Sillcock/1001436064

 

[zzyzzx]

I tried taking off the handle but it wouldn't come off. But with the valve open it exposed the packing nut. Not sure if the handle/stem comes off by loosening the packing nut all the way? I tightened the nut and now it doesn't leak. Still squeaks a ton (both on the house do) but no leaks. Below I linked the type of sillcock. Pretty sure there is no rebuild kit, but would install it if anyone knows of one. Also pretty sure they are original to the house (2003).

I looked up sweating copper and doesn't look too difficult. I have been soldering speaker wire, diodes, etc for 25 years. Would rather just not deal with it, though, so when the time comes will figure out what type of fitting/connection to use.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/AMERICAN-VALVE-12-in-Frost-Proof-Anti-Siphon-Sillcock/1001436064

You don't need a rebuild kit. A generic aftermarket gasket should be sufficient. Also lube stuff with dielectric grease.