How should i reply?
- Thread starter harthamm
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Buster - I've never run the S2000 Amsoil. But I know at least one person who has for years doing 35,000 mile oil changes on the same truck and still running strong with a free parts and labor warranty should the oil ever fail.
I have only used the warranted 25,000 mile/1 year $5.40 a quart Amsoil 5W30 and 10W30 in my car and vans.
I have only used the warranted 25,000 mile/1 year $5.40 a quart Amsoil 5W30 and 10W30 in my car and vans.
Of course Mobil 1 could handle those -34F New Jersey temperatures. It is not a conventional "unspiked" oil like the -17F pour point Havoline we were comparing.
Really? Is this true?
Tim, I'm not saying you're being dishonest - not even close - but I'd really like to see some evidence that the Texas Department of Public Safety has switched a significant number of their Highway Patrol units to Amsoil and 20,000 mile OCIs. Heck, I'd be surprised to learn they've done this with ANY of their vehicles.
I know many troopers and work with them on a daily basis, and I've never heard of such a thing. Maybe they're doing it in another part of the state or something.
Again, I'm not attacking you, my friend. I'm just really interested in this and I'd like to know more about it, particularly since there must be some sort of UOAs to back up your statement that their cars are "seeing less wear" with the Amsoil and extended drain intervals. Less wear compared to what? Shorter OCIs with dino oil? Or similar 20,000 mile OCIs with dino oil? Can you post any of those UOAs for us?
AstroVic - talk with the Troopers and they will tell you. I work with several oil change places in Houston and they tell me they come in with their AMSOIL and filters and pay a small labor charge and change every 20,000 miles. I've posted links before to the Texas DPS purchasing invoices and their $100s of thousands of dollars of Amsoil purchases. One link I've posted before is http://www.upmpg.com/tdps_saves.htm showing UOA's. Hope this helps.
One invoice for 500 cases of Amsoil ASL 5W30 http://www2.tbpc.state.tx.us/coop/web_pb_6_000754.html. I've found larger older ones in the past.
Forgive me fellows, but I just have to voice my opinion on this thread. This thread should have ended with the last post PT1 made. All the gentleman wanted to know was "How should I reply?" Since then it has turned into a Amsoil yes it will, no it won't thread.
I wish the mods would set up an Amsoil forum just like they did for GC. This way the rest of the post could carry on, on their own merit.
Sorry, it's been a bad day and I had to vent.
I wish the mods would set up an Amsoil forum just like they did for GC. This way the rest of the post could carry on, on their own merit.
Sorry, it's been a bad day and I had to vent.
I was hoping this thread would continue on to defend Havoline against the merits of some evil mechanic; instead, it turns out to be another Amsoil is better than holy water thread.
Tim, you obviously have not spent enough time here. Anyone who has been on here for awhile should know that any SM conventional oil will protect as well as any synthetic for moderate drain intervals. If you are interested in extended drains, then a synthetic like Amsoil is better.
start changing your own oil...this guy's a MORON.
Sadly when we have salesman that ANYTHING but what they are selling is #@$%!, we are going to get the above...
As someone who has a CURRENT engine with OVER 300k miles on mostly SG, SH and SL/SM versions of conventional oil (mostly Halvoline and Valvoline) and Fram fitlers I can confirm that running 10w-30 will be fine.
And if you need to be in colder weather like below zero (which unlike Texas
, it DOES get COLD here) you can run conventional 5w-30 with NO PROBLEMS.
I've done it for years and never had a issue.
Your readings here on this forum are correct. Halvoline is a TOP rated oil. Unless your manual STATES that you have to run Syn or you want to run a longer OCI, conventional oil will protect just as well. Halvoline is tops.
Take care, bill
As someone who has a CURRENT engine with OVER 300k miles on mostly SG, SH and SL/SM versions of conventional oil (mostly Halvoline and Valvoline) and Fram fitlers I can confirm that running 10w-30 will be fine.
And if you need to be in colder weather like below zero (which unlike Texas
I've done it for years and never had a issue.
Your readings here on this forum are correct. Halvoline is a TOP rated oil. Unless your manual STATES that you have to run Syn or you want to run a longer OCI, conventional oil will protect just as well. Halvoline is tops.
Take care, bill
Most oils use the same/smilar additive chemistry to meet the demanding API SM/GF-4 spec. (notice all SM oils use some Boron/Moly) Base oil quality has gone up to meet these specs. Most oils are now Grp II+ or II/III blend. Many if not most of the brands buy additives/base oils from one of the handful of suppliers out there.
One of them is CVX, the makers of Havoline. They produce their own base oils and additives. They have an additives division called Oronite. So the bottom line is, Havoline is a good oil produced by a company that knows what they are doing.
Oils like Amsoil use better base oils for extreme cold/hot temps, more Ca for detergency and increased TBN to fight off acids for long drains.
Quote:
I was hoping this thread would continue on to defend Havoline against the merits of some evil mechanic; instead, it turns out to be another Amsoil is better than holy water thread.
Not gonna happen.
What kind of car was she bringing in, out of curiosity? Of course the Havoline is certainly better than Carquest blended-by-the-lowest-bidder-oil.
Maybe you should find another mechanic. If he's so hard up to sell his oil, than that's a red flag to me that's he's a salesman first & more interested in making all the money he possibly can and hopefully, somewhere in there, by chance, the customer might be taken care of.
If he's feeding #@$%! on something that you can readily find knowledge about (BITOG), he will probably do that on things that are more complicated.
Maybe you should find another mechanic. If he's so hard up to sell his oil, than that's a red flag to me that's he's a salesman first & more interested in making all the money he possibly can and hopefully, somewhere in there, by chance, the customer might be taken care of.
If he's feeding #@$%! on something that you can readily find knowledge about (BITOG), he will probably do that on things that are more complicated.
The car was a 2006 Toyota Solara.
So far this mechanic has been very honest and reliable. I'm not sure what the problem is. I will probably reassure him that any SM oil will be adequate for normal OCI's.
So far this mechanic has been very honest and reliable. I'm not sure what the problem is. I will probably reassure him that any SM oil will be adequate for normal OCI's.
Question? Are we talking a wind chill temperature of -35° or an actual temperature of -35°?
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