I just did my first oil change on our new Nissan Frontier Pro X. Approximately 1k miles on the odometer. It's something I do with any new vehicle we get. While draining the factory oil I started to replace the oil filter. The oil filter was on so tight I couldn't get it off because my oil filter wrench from back when we owned our previous Frontier, which was made from hard plastic, had wallowed out and wouldn't grip the filter. The filter location is not the best for trying to apply leverage and turning by hand coupled with the fact I'm rehabbing a total anatomic right shoulder replacement and I'm still pretty weak in my right arm/shoulder. I've drained the oil and can't replace the oil filter. Not catastrophic, but I would like to replace it. I've picked up a new wrench. Here's my embarrassing question: Since the engine won't be running, If I remove the filter now will I just lose the oil from the filter and minor dripping from the housing, or will I also start losing the new oil I've just put in? OK ladies and gents, have at me.
How much oil drains when the filter is removed?
- Thread starter Sierra048
- Start date
It will just lose what’s in the filter and above the filter, which will be old oil.
May I suggest the Lisle tools 63600 oil filter wrench? $10 on Amazon. I’ve used it for thousands of oil changes and it has always had enough grip to remove every oil filter I’ve ever tried. It has EASILY removed filters that other guys can’t get off. Should be in everyone’s tool box.
Only the oil in the filter will be lost. Get a good metal cup wrench that properly fits the filter that is currently on the vehicle, and try that with a ratchet, or ratchet extension combo. No need to run the engine prior to removing the filter.
I'd love to see your hard plastic wrench which wallowed [I assume hollowed] out.
Sometimes those cup wrenches work great, other times they walk off the filter when you apply pressure.
Small tip: Sometimes you can get your mitts on a filter but can't move it. Obviously, a good tool helps.
But we're often away from home or we're working on a different car and the wrench we have won't fit or swing the right way.
Grab some masking tape and do a sloppy, folded-over, hack taping job on the end of the filter...leave tape upside-down etc.
Often you can get enough grip that way.
Sometimes those cup wrenches work great, other times they walk off the filter when you apply pressure.
Small tip: Sometimes you can get your mitts on a filter but can't move it. Obviously, a good tool helps.
But we're often away from home or we're working on a different car and the wrench we have won't fit or swing the right way.
Grab some masking tape and do a sloppy, folded-over, hack taping job on the end of the filter...leave tape upside-down etc.
Often you can get enough grip that way.
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I have one of these and can never make it work. I concede it might be operator error.
I resort to one like this when there real tight.
I picked up a JM3 oil filter wrench specifically for the tight oil filter space on my 2023 Pro-4x.
And that’s it. Go ahead and change the filter.
A metal cup wrench is best. When in this situation, of no wrench, vise grips or channel locks tend to crush the filter, but channel locks would be my first choice.
Last resort - drive a screwdriver through the can, near the base, and use it to twist off the filter.
Different oil filter tools work depending on filter access. I generally use this Lisle:
The HF cups linked are stamped steel and suck balls. Don't waste your money. You want something with greater wall thickness than sheetmetal that has been mashed into a shape.
You can get better units that are machined or forged but you need to know diameter and flute count if you want to buy individually. Even cheap ones sold as Uxcell etc on Amazon are acceptable so long as not stamped
Here's an example but I'm not saying this is the size you need:
You can get better units that are machined or forged but you need to know diameter and flute count if you want to buy individually. Even cheap ones sold as Uxcell etc on Amazon are acceptable so long as not stamped
Here's an example but I'm not saying this is the size you need:
Also the three finger GW and two finger Lisle are strong contenders. But they will ONLY loosen, and they tend to crush the filter a bit so once you start, there's NO retreat.
A cup wrench will also allow you to snug it. 99% of BITOG is about to yell NO!!!!! but they overlooked the fact OP has a physical ailment that may make it difficult for him to snug the filter by hand.
If you want to give it an 1/8 of a turn with a stubby ratchet to snug it, a cup socket is the ticket
A cup wrench will also allow you to snug it. 99% of BITOG is about to yell NO!!!!! but they overlooked the fact OP has a physical ailment that may make it difficult for him to snug the filter by hand.
If you want to give it an 1/8 of a turn with a stubby ratchet to snug it, a cup socket is the ticket
The tiny original mini filter on my 2018 Camry, (John Wayne used bigger shot glasses in his movies), I swear was put on with a pneumatic wrench from the factory. I struggled with a lot of difficulty to get it off. The problem was the Toyota OEM oil filter itself.
They have a O-Ring, instead of the large flat rubber gasket like every other make of filter uses. You only need hand tighten these with one hand.
That's all it takes to compress the O-Ring itself enough seal. When you can feel the metal part of the filter make contact with the metal filter housing itself... STOP.
Additional torque after that will jam the filter tight with metal to metal contact, making it a bear to remove. As soon as I switched to the Fram models, this nonsense ceased to exist. They tighten and loosen like any other type of oil filter.
I made the mistake of buying a case of 12 Toyota OEM filters, that I'll have to use up at some point. I'm sure they'll be fine, I just don't care for an O-Ring in place of a nice thick and wide greased rubber gasket.
They have a O-Ring, instead of the large flat rubber gasket like every other make of filter uses. You only need hand tighten these with one hand.
That's all it takes to compress the O-Ring itself enough seal. When you can feel the metal part of the filter make contact with the metal filter housing itself... STOP.
Additional torque after that will jam the filter tight with metal to metal contact, making it a bear to remove. As soon as I switched to the Fram models, this nonsense ceased to exist. They tighten and loosen like any other type of oil filter.
I made the mistake of buying a case of 12 Toyota OEM filters, that I'll have to use up at some point. I'm sure they'll be fine, I just don't care for an O-Ring in place of a nice thick and wide greased rubber gasket.
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Great tool if you're removing the throwaway tin can oil filters. I would probably stay away if you have a dedicated filter housing.
There are no embarrassing questions. How else is anyone supposed to learn?
Not your fault OP, it's overtightened filter from factory. Big chunk of metal will stay in filter, so everything is good.
the only time oil is going tjrough the filter is when the car is running. The oil you poured in went into the oil pan on the bottom. Are there any bitog members in your area that can help you?