How much difference does oil really make?

As long as the oil containers are green you are good
You've gone Quakers! :ROFLMAO:

quacker.webp
 
Depends on the engine. My 2.5L Dynamic Force Toyota just likes 5k OCI on any oil. At 200k mile HPL didn't find anything in it lol.
 
There is no easy answer to this question.

The truth is that in some cases a premium oil is overkill but in other cases that premium oil will allow the engine to be much cleaner and retain more of it’s original power and MPG as a result. A lot of high mileage engines using cheaper oil aren’t exactly in the greatest of shape (which is why VRP is managing to clean up the carbon on the rings of many of these engines)
What do you mean when you say cheaper oil? I hope you don't mean Mobil 1, Pennzoil, and Castrol. I highly doubt the above three will leave anything for VRP to clean, unless the engine has some design issues like in Glenda's case that has made me nervous about my sister's Subaru Outback
 
That looks so clean you can't even tell oil has touched it! Are you sure your oil pump's working? :unsure:
All the credit goes to that legendary 4.0L that is also in the 4Runner and FJ Cruiser. Car Care Nut says he has never been inside one of those in his entire career. That thing will be fine an any oil.
 
If the engine fails its usually due to being ran low on oil.
This^^^^^. I'm surprised at how many people never check the oil level. I had an aunt who used to drive until the red oil light would come on then swing by a quick lube for an oil change. My wife ruined her first car by running it out of oil. It took about 18 months from new until it seized up. (I did not know her at the time.) Many people misunderstand how an OLM works as well. They believe it indicates oil level, not oil life. If cars are kept topped up on oil and coolant, and the oil gets changed "every now and then", they'll often limp along until something else totals it out.
 
What do you mean when you say cheaper oil? I hope you don't mean Mobil 1, Pennzoil, and Castrol. I highly doubt the above three will leave anything for VRP to clean, unless the engine has some design issues like in Glenda's case that has made me nervous about my sister's Subaru Outback
Subaru is far from the only manufacturer that’s had oil consumption from stuck low tension oil rings. Toyota, VW, GM, Hyundai, etc., every company has had winners and losers. Any of those oils could be the culprit in certain cases.
 
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What do you mean when you say cheaper oil? I hope you don't mean Mobil 1, Pennzoil, and Castrol. I highly doubt the above three will leave anything for VRP to clean, unless the engine has some design issues like in Glenda's case that has made me nervous about my sister's Subaru Outback
When I say “cheaper oil” I am referring to Kirkland, Supertech, or any of the house brands that just meet the bare minimum requirements.
 
When I say “cheaper oil” I am referring to Kirkland, Supertech, or any of the house brands that just meet the bare minimum requirements.
Those house brand oils like Supertech and Kirkland must be terrible oils, meeting the "bare minimum requirements" how dare they! I learn something new from this site almost everyday.
 
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I bought my first new car in 1978, a VW Rabbit four-speed. Quick, fuel injected, handled like it was on rails and a darn sight better than the other offerings of the era like the Gremlin, Pinto, Vega, et al. Loved that car. I was more than a bit obsessive about every little thing, including oil brands and the service manager eventually said to me "Kid, St. Peter could come down from heaven with a micrometer made and calibrated by God himself and believe me, he wouldn't be able to measure the slightest difference in what you're worrying about."

Now at 66 years old, I've obviously never forgotten that sage advice! ;-)
 
use any good name brand oil that offer their upper tier (Extended,Ultra,Ultimate etc ) line and change out at 5k and you should have no problems whatsoever, in at least the viscosity and API & ILSAC ,license,approvals etc , spec needed , or a bit higher viscosity that the car manufacture recommends or your needs , (dependent on climate ),,,, proper filteration can be a game changer for the life of the engine, clean oil is a must along with correct oil level, plus driving habits can be detrimental too ,, & boutique or more pricey oils have their place and use on the market. just maintain the vehicle correctly in general at all points.
 
Those house brand oils like Supertech and Kirkland must be terrible oils, meeting the "bare minimum requirements" how dare they! I learn something new from this site almost everyday.
Would you rather have an oil that just barely squeaks by or an oil that greatly exceeds the requirements? Or better still, an oil that has many different European manufacturers approvals. I know what I’m choosing…
 
Wear doesn’t usually kill engines. Clogged rings and associated damage to the cylinder walls kill engines, especially if they burn themselves out of oil.

It is likely that more expensive oils have a lower risk of allowing rings to get clogged than cheaper oils. There are many exceptions and variables, but generally I believe this to be true.
 
Would you rather have an oil that just barely squeaks by or an oil that greatly exceeds the requirements? Or better still, an oil that has many different European manufacturers approvals. I know what I’m choosing…
Barely squeaks by? That's a litte dramatic I'd say. I'm sure there are thousands of high mileage vehicles that have run nothing but cheap store brand oils.
 
Barely squeaks by? That's a litte dramatic I'd say. I'm sure there are thousands of high mileage vehicles that have run nothing but cheap store brand oils.
And a lot of those engines are burning a lot of oil too. Why do you think VRP is so popular right now? A lot of people have oil burners thanks to those cheap oils that only meet the most basic requirements.
 
And a lot of those engines are burning a lot of oil too. Why do you think VRP is so popular right now? A lot of people have oil burners thanks to those cheap oils that only meet the most basic requirements.
And with that I think it's time for me to get a life and take a much needed break from this site. To all of those who have answered my questions over the years and given me solid advice I thank you. To the hoarders, I'll always have a soft spot in my heart for you been there done that. Everyone take care.
 
The Xterra and link to under the valve covers in my sig has over 400K miles and has run on conventional most of its life.

But, if it was a more marginal engine design it probably would not have faired so well. Also premium oil allows for a longer OCI if that is your thing - but I think there are other reasons to change more frequently unless your running some sort of micron bypass filter.

so I guess "it depends"
 
And with that I think it's time for me to get a life and take a much needed break from this site. To all of those who have answered my questions over the years and given me solid advice I thank you. To the hoarders, I'll always have a soft spot in my heart for you been there done that. Everyone take care.
Wow! 🤣 I give you some facts about oil and because it doesn’t align with your beliefs you want to leave? Ok 🙄
 
If your vehicle meets the criteria @Hohn spelled out, I see no downside to boutique oils with potential benefits at minimum.

People spend far more money on fuel cost monthly than any oil cost in a given year or more. That’s even with spending more on boutique. Some even spend more on fuel cost in a single week or a single day than oil cost in a given year.

The price difference between premium and regular unleaded gasoline, for example, will actually lead to large sums of money.

$50 or $100 more per oil change; the difference spread out over a year, between boutique versus basic off the shelf, isn’t really as big of a deal.

Therefore, I have no issue spending more on boutique as my vehicle meets the criteria for extended intervals; although I wouldn’t mind still paying for boutique on closer to “normal“ service intervals.

At a shorter service interval/need and therefore price/performance point, most people stick with their favorite brand anyway or whatever is on sale. Is there anything wrong with either approach in that context? Not really, unless you have a vehicle that easily has oil related issues even on shorter intervals; as seen with some of the VRP engines that were cared for regularly and still had at a minimum sludge or oil ring sticking.

I prefer having more peace of mind and brands I stick to, but wouldn’t mind running any OTS occasionally even if I have my preferred brand. I won’t just trust any oil for extended service intervals though.
 
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