How much brake fluid for complete change/bleed?

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wagsg

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Haynes manual firmly in hand, I am going to 'attempt' to do a brake fluid change by bleeding the brakes on my '03 Saturn L200. This is something I've never done, but I'm trying to learn more and more basic maintenance.

I did the turkey baster method previously, but want a more thorough change this time, so... the question is how much fluid will I need to accomplish this. I definately want to have enough on hand, but don't want to buy way more than needed.

Thanks for any help!!!
 
One quart.

Turkey baster out the reservoir and fill with new fluid before you begin. RR, LR, RF and LF in that order. Use a pressure bleeder preferably, a vacuum bleeder should be okay as well.
 
Only 1 quart, that's good to hear. Now for my next rookie DIY question. Do you have to have a bleeder (vacuum or pressure) or can you open the bleeder valves and just gravity drain them. I haven't read the manual yet.
 
You can gravity drain them, but it will take you a very, very long time.

Just buy a pressure or gravity bleeder, I prefer pressure.

Here's a link to a Motive Power Bleeder with an adapter that is designed specifically for GM vehicles. You might want the model with the universal adapter if you have more than that just GM vehicles:

http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/product/1634/Motive_Brake_Bleeders

Here's a link to the website:

http://www.motiveproducts.com/

Even if you count the price of the bleeder and a quart or two of brake fluid, it still costs less than what you'd pay the dealership for a brake flush.
 
I like the vacuum bleeders that suck fluid out of the bleeder screw. Less of a mess if you don't make the seal right, but you have to get the screw tightness right or it will just suck air through the threads.

I would buy two quarts of fluid, just in case you screw up and get air in the system. That way you have more than enough fluid to do the job twice, and if everything goes well, you can return the one sealed bottle.
 
Originally Posted By: Squishy
I like the vacuum bleeders that suck fluid out of the bleeder screw. Less of a mess if you don't make the seal right, but you have to get the screw tightness right or it will just suck air through the threads.

Vacuum bleeders don't seal well period, which is why I dislike them. I often get a softer pedal after a vacuum bleed, thus requiring you to follow-up with a manual bleed (which you should do anyway if you want the firmest pedal possible). They are easier to use if you service many different makes/models, a vacuum bleeder that is. At least you don't have to stock many different adapters.
 
As luck would have it I did my first "bleed" last weekend. I used the 2 person method--1 in the car pushing the brake, and I was at the wheel opening/closing the bleeder valve.

Best advice I got from BITOG was to spray some PB Blaster on the bleeder valves as far ahead of time as possible. I sprayed them again prior to opening them and had no trouble--this on a 97 Avalon that had never had the brakes bled....

Fluid was not particularly dirty--a gold, honey color...
 
I bled my '03 Grand Prix brakes last Saturday. The old fluid was green! I used a little over 24 ounces. Did it the old fashioned way.
 
Originally Posted By: bcossa2001
As luck would have it I did my first "bleed" last weekend. I used the 2 person method--1 in the car pushing the brake, and I was at the wheel opening/closing the bleeder valve.

Best advice I got from BITOG was to spray some PB Blaster on the bleeder valves as far ahead of time as possible. I sprayed them again prior to opening them and had no trouble--this on a 97 Avalon that had never had the brakes bled....

Fluid was not particularly dirty--a gold, honey color...


how did the brakes feel after you did the old fasion way? also just bc the color was nice and gold does not mean its not spent.
 
Brake pedal is firmer.....

Interesting comment about the fluid color. I have previously done the turkey baster method and that fluid (2-3 months ago) was brown.

I must say I was disappointed in the quantity of fluid that came out each time the pedal was pressed--I was expecting a noticeable spurt and instead it just "eased" its way out....is this normal??
 
how long did it take you to bleed each one? takes about an hour right?? assuming you do it right and do it about 6-10 times per wheel.. meaning 6-10 pumps on the brake
 
Originally Posted By: The Critic
You can gravity drain them, but it will take you a very, very long time...


How long is a "very, very long time" to you? I do my vehicles within a couple hours, and that is doing a pretty thorough job of flushing fluid through.
 
Originally Posted By: Tones
Originally Posted By: The Critic
You can gravity drain them, but it will take you a very, very long time...


How long is a "very, very long time" to you? I do my vehicles within a couple hours, and that is doing a pretty thorough job of flushing fluid through.

The last two brake fluid changes that I did, it took me about 30 minutes each using a compressed air operated Mityvac.
 
Great info everyone. Time is not that big of a deal to me. If it can be done by a novice in under 2 hours, I'm happy. Besides with the stereo, tv, and cooler of Fat Tire beer in the garage... I'm in no hurry!
beer3.gif


I looked at some of the pressure bleeders on-line. Do they draw fresh fluid into the resevoir as it pressures the old out or do you fill the resevoir and pressure/bleed until low then fill resevoir again and repeat until changed?
 
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