Originally Posted By: Errtt
Thanks again all for the info.
I think I'll see if I get 150k from the OEM belt then change to the new belt, if things go as planned now.
Idea
Since there is about 6 pulley's (1 is idler another tensioner) and no belt diagram label under the hood, I have found a good belt diagram on line then took a good clear shot of it on the smartphone. Also printed a copy to throw in the glove box. So in the future should I blow off a belt I can check on the phone or the paper in the glove box and have a good diagram to go by.
Another helpful hint is there's a ribbed side and a smooth side. The crank, AC, and alternator will (almost) always get the ribs because of the high loads while water pumps and idlers can be smooth. The idler will also be positioned so the belt wraps way around the alternator, over 180 degrees most times.
If one wants to be anal, they could exercise the tensioner annually. Heck, remove the belt so the tensioner can have its full travel. The pivot points tend to seize up when they don't move hardly at all over the lifetime.
Wife's HHR serp belt was about done at 205k but not showing symptoms. New one was